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Tamiya Championship Series

Old 06-28-2011, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by mini master
Hey guys, i was at the Tamiya track yesterday and brought my New GoPro HD. After trying a few different mounting positions i got the video as still and clean as i think it will ever be. There was a lot of requests yesterday to put this up on Youtube and post it on RCTech. Here it is, its about a 5min collaboration of all the video i took yesterday.
It is in HD so remember to change the video to 720p HD on youtube when you watch it. (if you want to see how clear it really is.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOasZM5SZcc
Amazing video!! Great throttle control, shows a nice smooth trigger finger!
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Old 06-28-2011, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by mini master
Hey guys, i was at the Tamiya track yesterday and brought my New GoPro HD. After trying a few different mounting positions i got the video as still and clean as i think it will ever be. There was a lot of requests yesterday to put this up on Youtube and post it on RCTech. Here it is, its about a 5min collaboration of all the video i took yesterday.
It is in HD so remember to change the video to 720p HD on youtube when you watch it. (if you want to see how clear it really is.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOasZM5SZcc
Was that from a GoPro HD Hero 960 camera - which I see goes for only $179 or so?
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Old 06-28-2011, 10:38 AM
  #15753  
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Default The Whonda Whore speaks

Originally Posted by maxepower
Did everyone see the new Honda CRZ body that Tom was running. His car was sick. I ran my Integra and Honda Civic type R and I couldn't keep up with his car. I hope Rod brings his FF-03 next weekend so he can run against the CRZ. Without a wing that body works really well. I need to try it again if Tom is willing!
Oh, and that was my TA05-V2 in the video, very cool to watch the suspension working as it's going around the track!
You can borrow it, buddy. Everyone else can go pound sand. (J/K). I also would like to report I ran it over at TQ on Sunday with old friends including Kevin CBR, and came second in FF with it.

Of course, there were only two cars running in FF.

The CR-Z not only worked very well but also survived some serious board and corner hits with no appreciable damage--helps to reinforce the nose before running, it's got lots of corners and angles to split in a crash. Also, I will note that both Kevin's and my lap times by the end of the day were faster than almost all the Sportsman class' laps, and we were both running silver can motors.

A note to the "nooB" and his earlier question about what to run in GT1 on his TA06: for great combination of speed and stability get out your old Honda-Acura NSX's, 2003 to 2006 bodies are best with a Lexan wing. Or, an Ebbro 350R is good if it'll fit over your front shock tower if you're running that instead of laydown shocks. If you've got a last-generation R34 Nissan Skyline, bring that, or buy the new R35 and bring a Lexan wing set for it. Also, leave your lead weights at home, as you won't be needing those to make minimum weight...
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Old 06-28-2011, 10:43 AM
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Default Oooops

Originally Posted by Tom Slick

A note to the "nooB" and his earlier question about what to run in GT1 on his TA06: for great combination of speed and stability get out your old Honda-Acura NSX's, 2003 to 2006 bodies are best with a Lexan wing. Or, an Ebbro 350R is good if it'll fit over your front shock tower if you're running that instead of laydown shocks. If you've got a last-generation R34 Nissan Skyline, bring that, or buy the new R35 and bring a Lexan wing set for it. Also, leave your lead weights at home, as you won't be needing those to make minimum weight...
Just noticed he said he was running GT2 in MD; sorry about the NSX note, as that's not legal in GT2. Neither is the Ebbro 350R. So, other choices include old Ferrari 360's and 430's (while we eagerly await news of whether Tamiya will make the 458), the aforementioned R34 and R35 Skylines, and if you are a slavish devotee of Honda products like I am, try the Honda HSV-010 body but put a Lexan wing on it instead of its plastic wing.
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Old 06-28-2011, 11:24 AM
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Old 06-28-2011, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Slick
Just noticed he said he was running GT2 in MD; sorry about the NSX note, as that's not legal in GT2. Neither is the Ebbro 350R. So, other choices include old Ferrari 360's and 430's (while we eagerly await news of whether Tamiya will make the 458), the aforementioned R34 and R35 Skylines, and if you are a slavish devotee of Honda products like I am, try the Honda HSV-010 body but put a Lexan wing on it instead of its plastic wing.
Thanks Tom..

This is the R35 I want?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWAJ2&P=7

Wow tamiya shells are more pricey then other generic TC shells.

Is there a tamiya lexan wing I need to get, or can i just bolt on a wing from a lexan TC shell set and still be TCS legal?
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Old 06-28-2011, 12:08 PM
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Nah, you want this one

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=373&id=8214

This is a good wing set to have:

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=373&id=6573
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Old 06-28-2011, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by stitchy
Thanks! ordering through speedtech now!
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Old 06-28-2011, 02:41 PM
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Default Speedtech doth rule

Originally Posted by stitchy
+1. You want the Tamiya wing set; can't run anything else, not legal. The plastic wing the body kit comes with is good for concours, and that's about it.
Leave it to the fine lads at Speedtech to beat Tower's prices, too.
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Old 06-28-2011, 02:55 PM
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Default The Mini Enduro Doth rule all your thoughts.

For all of you who are planning on signing up for the M Chassis Enduro, please do so soon. We only have a couple spots left so don't miss it. We can't take late entries at the track once things fill up because we don't have any extra room on the drivers stand. Get your entries in ASAP!!!


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Old 06-28-2011, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA
No limit and you wanna cruise around with a boosted 10.5?
Yes for two reasons:

1.) Lowest motor I have and too cheap to buy another.
2.) Tamiya track has so little grip anymore, doubt you could keep any more motor than that on the track.
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Old 06-29-2011, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Kevin CBR
Yes for two reasons:

1.) Lowest motor I have and too cheap to buy another.
2.) Tamiya track has so little grip anymore, doubt you could keep any more motor than that on the track.
Never too much power.

Just not enough brakes.

Yeh, brakes not breaks.
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Old 06-29-2011, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin CBR
2.) Tamiya track has so little grip anymore, doubt you could keep any more motor than that on the track.
panda... let me show you how's done... give me your transmitter...
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Old 06-29-2011, 07:42 PM
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Default FF03 Clarification

Re: FF03 Building Clarification -

Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
after you build the diff, make sure the head of the screw is on the right side of the car, the nut will then be on the left side. suggest you go straight to getting the alum diff halves and the hop-up gears from the TRF201 (black idler and diff gear). everyone back here melted their stock diffs after just 1 pack even though the diff was built and mounted correctly.

Clarification please...

Is step 3 of the manual incorrect? The head of the screw is away from the spur gear in this step. That puts the head on the left side. I have run the Associated RC10GT diff in all of my nitro oval cars. If the diff bolt is a traditional thread, as in the GT, then you are correct, and the manual is wrong.

I am taking this on its maiden voyage in two weeks, and I don't want to melt the stock stuff.

Anyone here is welcome to chime in.
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Old 06-30-2011, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by rdcobra
Re: FF03 Building Clarification -

Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
after you build the diff, make sure the head of the screw is on the right side of the car, the nut will then be on the left side. suggest you go straight to getting the alum diff halves and the hop-up gears from the TRF201 (black idler and diff gear). everyone back here melted their stock diffs after just 1 pack even though the diff was built and mounted correctly.

Clarification please...

Is step 3 of the manual incorrect? The head of the screw is away from the spur gear in this step. That puts the head on the left side. I have run the Associated RC10GT diff in all of my nitro oval cars. If the diff bolt is a traditional thread, as in the GT, then you are correct, and the manual is wrong.

I am taking this on its maiden voyage in two weeks, and I don't want to melt the stock stuff.

Anyone here is welcome to chime in.
I'd believe the manual. Mine is by the book and has a lot more than 1 run on it with no problems.
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