nexxus

iTrader: (315)

One thing I have been teaching my 11 yr old is he needs to learn to race the car as it is, even if the set up is rubbish he needs to adapt to finish the race cleanly. Too many people overdrive their cars blame their set up but it's more a case of their inability to adapt. You hand a top driver a poorly set up car he should still be able to finish the race without being a rolling hazard.

killer rock

That is very true. But at the same time we don't want a truck that's fighting us around the track. So a basic alignment. So the trucks driving straight. Goes a long way. Then just fix it with the remote trim. As needed. Till the next tune up

My two cents

Smoking motor..

I used to thinks this until a prodriver took my badly setup car and drove it, he said it impossible to drive this....

If the setup is bad your not going to enjoy driving the car and crash alot as the car is unpredictable.You need to make sure the setup is easy to drive or they won't be able to stop crashing and won't enjoy the hobby.

I also recently drove a car with a very slow radio latency, there was so much delay between input and the car responding it made it impossible to drive.

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

Over the weekend I did my first outdoor parking lot racing in 2 years. I used 2 cars that hadn’t been run in 2 years. Never been setup. About all I know about setups are getting a car to drive straight. Other then that. Most of it is overwhelming. And, to me, assumed we all drive the same. Which isn’t true. I give running Kyosho MiniZ credit for my improvement. I’ve never run above a 92 percent before in 1/10 during a race.

heyscottn

Adding to what I wrote previously...I don't advise people to lower EPA on steering. Set your steering endpoints to their max. AMainHobbies made a good video:

Also, I recently created a video about cornering technique:

Bry195

I see the magic in this. No doubt its true. I drove with a car for 2 years that required very steady hands and i had to predict a series of problems that would occur based on throttle input and what i was doing. I got allot better from this. Then I stumbled across a setup that felt right and all of those things I learned still came in handy but I didnt need to have a checklist running in my head for everything that could go wrong moment to moment. I climbed my way to middle of the pack and even had some wins. it became fun and i got hooked. there were glorious moments in that early two year period but I couldnt repeat them with any kind of logic. It was pure willpower that got me through the first two years and there were times that I just didnt have the patience. When things started responding in a predictable way I realized this is fun and I can get faster and that it was because i knew how to make adjustments. i dont know if that will cap how fast i will get but Im pretty sure I’ll keep getting faster and wont lose faith in my ability to progress.

Lutheran

Thanks for that advice.Really thank you guys thanks to you, I found answers to many questions that tormented me.
Recommend YouTube channels for a beginner where you can learn more

Pedmar007

Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought that adjusting D/R was a direct connection btw the movement of the radio wheel and the vehicle's steering as well. I watched a video showing how when you full lock on the radio that there can be a bit more radius to go on the radio wheel while the vehicle's steering is already at full lock. The adjusting of the d/r down is to ensure that full lock on the radio wheel also matches full lock on the vehicle's steering as well. When I read about d/r making steering less sensitive I get confused as to what d/r adjustments really do. I thought making the steering less sensitive related to the steering speed 🤷‍♂️. I guess when some refer to sensitivity and steering they're referring to the radius of turn more so than the actual speed of the steering servo itself.

Pedmar007

What's an advisable % setting for someone racing 13.5 blinky to have the throttle expo set to? I read a post saying primarily +/- 10% and no more, I wanted to know if in blinky there's a range that going beyond becomes more negative than positive for the driving experience if you're setting positive expo.

killer rock

cant comment on throttle expo i run it liner and would recomand base of my tuning and testing not to.

as far as d/r what it does it clip the steering evenly making it harder to give it to over steer at full crank of the wheel. d/r steering does nothing on making it less sensitive to small movements.
-expo makes the steering more or less sensitive to small movement( from 0 to 50 less sensitive more or less so then it flips it on the other end making it more sensitive)
+expo does the exact opposite
this i very slimier but very different to changing out a servo horn to a smaller or longer horn. smaller horn= -expo, longer horn +expo (just remember changing the horn is similer to expo but different as it effect other things to like d/r\endpoints as wall as the speed of travel the rack moves)

-expo is the only one i would recommend because it makes the 0-50 band longer an infect making a care easier to drive as until you learn those small prosice movement you'll see darting right left down the strait away. only 0-45 no more and alway try to run closer to 0 as you get better(this is not a set it and forget it adjustment more -expo will almost always feel better). but you all will also need to adjust your d/r too

in general im always around 0-20 -expo it just feels better and when i having driven for some time i go more in the - side.

but yes you can have toooo much and it will mess up steering too. but if you wondering yes i do have 1 car that i can't run less then -30 the cars too too twichy and ive tried alsort of changes she but i like it that way on the track i drove it on. narrow long long lanes.

Pedmar007

ok.

Bry195

if you have a motor that is too twitchy (most mod setups) I would probably suggest you use a throttle curve to make the acceleration linear. when you pull the trigger it delivers current not speed. the result is speed but the current is delivered in a linear fashion not the velocity. 1 amp will equal .1nm at high speed but .5 nm at low speed. .5nm accelerates much harder than .1. if you want to make the car accelerate more linear than use a throttle curve that adds less throttle in the low range and more throttle (current) in the high range. this will make speed more linear. if you shrink the throttle range with d/r you will be dropping the portion of the curve that is near the end. which might be needed but because the torque you get at high rpm with a full trigger squeeze is low it may not do much for you. a full trigger squeeze at low rpm is a different story but low turn motors probably need a little trigger caution at low rpm.

find the lowest speed corner before a long straight and smooth out the throttle to exit that.

HaulinBass

iTrader: (16)

I use a 3 way dual rate setup. Pos 1 is 100% , pos 2 -15% pos 3 is -25%. In nitro buggy i almost never run 100%, usually its pos 3. Nitro truggy i run 50 50 between 100% and pos 2 depending how well my car is rotating.
i find with allot of setups and cars if you run too much steering it just causes too much understeer initially then will find grip and the car will seem squirly.
too much steering and too much brakes is most likely whats keeping most guys at the track from improving quickly

fast_gc8

iTrader: (2)

This forum has been very helpful understanding