TCS electronics

Old 11-15-2019, 01:29 PM
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I didn't want to derail the TCS thread but had some questions.
(I just read through 1k posts and didn't see an answer)

1) TCS rule require use of the factory motor mounts. So FDR is limited to about 5+ ? What are people doing with tracks that use under 4, just running slower?
2) stock classes require use of what came in box, so TBLE02 running brushed mode with either silver can or torque tuned, not speed tuned. Motors/ESC must use existing wiring from factory no soldering permitted (same with battery) yes?
3) brushless class is ROAR motors, and they are pushing the Reedy Sonics - any others? Not Tamiya's own sensored brushless motors (cheaper same power, but rated fewer turns)?
4) they moved to LiPo? No Nimh?
5) these are mostly guides yes, and I assume local clubs do what they want so nothing is etched in stone. (i.e. you can use Nimh for cheaper/safer and you can use different motor mounts for lower FDR higher speeds)

Seth
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Old 11-20-2019, 08:37 AM
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I'm not sure what you are asking but the rules for TCS can be round here:

https://www.tamiyausa.com/tcs/rules/

Originally Posted by sethwas View Post
I didn't want to derail the TCS thread but had some questions.
(I just read through 1k posts and didn't see an answer)

1) TCS rule require use of the factory motor mounts. So FDR is limited to about 5+ ? What are people doing with tracks that use under 4, just running slower?
2) stock classes require use of what came in box, so TBLE02 running brushed mode with either silver can or torque tuned, not speed tuned. Motors/ESC must use existing wiring from factory no soldering permitted (same with battery) yes?
3) brushless class is ROAR motors, and they are pushing the Reedy Sonics - any others? Not Tamiya's own sensored brushless motors (cheaper same power, but rated fewer turns)?
4) they moved to LiPo? No Nimh?
5) these are mostly guides yes, and I assume local clubs do what they want so nothing is etched in stone. (i.e. you can use Nimh for cheaper/safer and you can use different motor mounts for lower FDR higher speeds)

Seth
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Old 11-20-2019, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by v_squared View Post
Thanks - I read the rules but wanted to hear how they are actually done in practice since there seems to be some grey area.
I understand it's likely club specific so was hoping to hear of the various ways they solve the issues I presented above.

Seth
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Old 11-22-2019, 08:24 AM
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So I read some individual tamiya model threads, and some forums separate from RCtech and seem to have come up with these answers:

1) you must use the tamiya motor mounts. Yes this means 'slow' FDR. It is what it is.
2) I see novice class is stock wiring only. NiCD only. GT1/2 you can use whatever connectors you want. unusual, but didn't see if they have Lipo or not. use to require NiCd.
3) Looks like you 'can't' use Tamiya motors here?
4) looks like LiPo in classes other than Novice a shame.
5) rules don't apply at local clubs apparently.

Seth
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Old 11-22-2019, 09:21 AM
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Last edited by Markus; 11-28-2019 at 12:41 PM.
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Old 11-23-2019, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Markus View Post
1, 2, 3, 4, 5
Thanks for taking the time to reply I appreciate it. Since we have no tamiya racing of any kind for hundreds of miles I was trying to work out a way to integrate it into the local community and understand where the rules come from to be able to match it as closely as possible. It would be nice to bring in some racers from other classes, and really to bring in a much much younger group (as in kids).

So then with that in mind:

1) FDR is really no big deal, most of the racers here are in the high 3's and low 4's so would have to convince them to go slow Of course I understand it from Tamiya's perspective as it keeps things simple and costs down. Also with slower speeds its easier to teach the young ones to drive.

2) This is interesting. Eurotruck seems to be the closest to 'stock' racing as ever there was. But there are still 2 versions of that Super and Spec. Both allow any battery chemistry since at the motors esc's and gears they are running there is no race advantage to one chemistry over the other. It seems one class is any 21.5 roar motor the other is torque tuned. One is any blinky the other is kit supplied TBLE02. One allows for smaller spur, the other doesn't. One allows for shorty batteries ,the other doesn't. And one lets you lower a tad the other doesn't. Seems like this is also a smart thing since the tires are so big the speeds are actually higher than with TC with identical FDR's. Another way for Tamiya to keep things very simple and costs down.

3) for brushed motors yes, Tamiya silver can or torque tuned are required. But for brushless they open up the books and let you run any roar motor 'except' tamiya units and it made me raise an eyebrow, I thought I was misreading so thanks for clarifying. Maybe this inconsistency was to not appear anticompetitive with the electronics vendors? It sort of goes against their simplify/keep costs in check. But I see it as a way for hobbyists who already have ROAR motors to be able to re-use them keeping costs down. I do like that the tamiya equipment doesn't require any soldering which is better to introduce people to the hobby (no excess training or equipment needed) and is certainly much safer for young ones.

4) we might have to agree to disagree on the use of 'advanced'. I say a shame because this is one area that seems to go against the rule logic. The rules looks for ways to simplify the racing and keep costs down. LiPo is more expensive to run, and is decidedly less simple to use in practice. So from a casual hobbyist perspective it's a clear step back (and I would never let kids mess with it). I understand the paper benefits to the chemistry of course.

5) I hear you - this is my goal. To try to keep as close to the 'real' rules as possible should someone want to step 'up' to the official stuff, but at the same time make it as easy as possibly to join to keep participation high.

Seth
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