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Old 03-30-2013, 03:13 PM   #1
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Default Dynotech Delta Sprint Car with lots of one-of-a-kind custom mods

I'm not sure what I'm going to be running next indoor season so I am considering selling my Dynotech Delta that I've been running indoors on carpet.

This car has many custom mods and one-off parts that you will find nowhere else in the world because I made them myself. There are a lot of features in this car that are exceptional so please read my long-winded descriptions (coming later).

But first I must specify that this sale does not include the electronics seen in the pics, except for the servo. It also does not include the front wing, which if you look closely you will see has a Hyperdrive decal because it is from my outdoor dirt Hyperdrive Havoc Sprint Car.

So the following is not included:
Tekin RSPro ESC
AMB Transponder
Spektrum Receiver
Castle Quick Connect
Glitch Buster capacitor
Motor, heatsink, and fan
Front Wing (the mounts are included, just not the wing/wing wire)
pinion adapter

I have not yet removed the electronics or other parts because I want the car to be ready for next season if nobody buys it.

The tires seen in the pics are included and are freshly trued (including the camber cut into the front tires, best seen in picture #5). The shocks are Associated threaded body TC shocks with the VCS conversion, The rears have extended shafts and the limiters needed to prevent the piston from damaging the bladder. The car is in good shape. I have only run it indoors on carpet though it does have some scratches in the chassis from a previous owner which you can see in picture #06

Now for the mods. Links to the numbered pictures I reference are at the end of the thread.

A) I made a 0.4" extended right rear mount to move the right tire out by that amount. You can get a good view of the comparison of my mount and the factory Dynotech mount in picture #13. Picture #07 also shows a good comparison in a bottom view of the rear end. I am using the Custom Works extended CVD bone. To go with the extended rear mount I made a number of different locators that position the right inner camber link pivot at various locations which I wanted to try. These are all included and can be seen in picture #14 along with the original part that is included. The one on the car right now is made so that the right rear tire has essentially zero camber change as the car rolls in the corner so that I get uniform tire wear. Note that my custom right side mount is made for only zero anti-squat. The original right side Dynotech mount is included as is the standard B4 CVD bone that would be used with it.

B) I made a custom wheel weight for the left front. This is slightly heavier than the Dynotech combo of their caster block and wheel weight. I cast a disc of lead from expended bullets and machined it to the configuration I wanted to fit inside the pan car front wheel. I used a Losi XXX-T front axles and used a threading die to thread a portion of the axle that extends past the steering block so the weight, which I tapped, could be threaded on the axle. The screws you see in pictures #17 & #18 keep the weight from rotating and unscrewing itself. You can see a bottom view of the weight in Picture #11.

C) I made a front wing mount screwed to the chassis so I could use the same kind of wing as on my outdoor sprinter. I even ended up using that wing (it worked) but the wing doesn't come with because I need it for my outdoor car. You can see the wing mount from the top in picture #10 and from the bottom in picture #11. The wing mount plate is tapped and held by four screws coming from the bottom of the chassis. The screw locations in the chassis were properly countersunk with a 82 degree carbide tool. The wing mount plate is relieved for the front shock mount so the shock mount position is not disturbed.

D) You will see in the closeups picture #15 and #16 that the car is using aluminum rear hubs instead of the breakage prone plastic ones. These are a Dynamite part and are no longer available. I managed to snag a pair just after I bought the car. The XXX-S hubs use a 3/32" hinge pin. I am using 1/8" (not 3MM) Titanium hinge pins in the rear so the hubs were opened up for the larger hinge pin. What is not so obvious is that the hub for the right rear was machined such that it has 1.5 degrees of toe out, so that I could try some rear steer. When I put that hub in my milling machine to enlarge the hole I titlted the milling head 1.5 degrees and milled and reamed the hole. I'm actually not running with the steer on the right side, so the adjustable arm being in the middle position gives zero toe in or out on the right side. If for some reason you wanted to use the plastic hubs, some are included as shown in picture #23.

E) Early on I managed to break the front bumper part of the roll cage in a crash and so I made a multi-piece replacement using some delrin rod and a black nylon body post. The body post is much less brittle than the original cage part. Plus, I made little rubber shock absoring pads where the bumper connects to the rest of the cage. These can be seen in pics #20 and #21. If I can find the spares for thsi they will be included.

F) I used some heavy duty leaxan angle to mate the wing to the wing mounts after breaking tte flimsy custom works mounts. This can be seen in picture #22.

G) The right front axle is also extended using an Associated wide front axle (picture #19)

H) Before getting the pinion adapter (which I mentioned above is not included), I made an idler gear arrangement so that I could use commonly available gear sizes. This can be seen in picture #25. All I had at the time were aluminum and plastic pinions and the plastic pinion I used for the idler only lasted about 4 race days. If you have a good hard steel 64P pinion, you could use the idler (which requires swapping the rear diff side to side in the car so you keep the motor rotation as counter-clockwise). I will only include the idler parts if someone specifically wants them. It will be up to the buyer to figure out how to re-install and adjust them so if you are not mechanically astute, they won't do you much good.

Other features on the car:

Instead of the usual nylon and delrin front and rear mounts, this car has the optional aluminum front mounts, rear bulkheads and squat blocks. The front hood is retained by screws through the cage and velcro on a body post. It has Titainium turnbuckles for all the links. It has fresh bearings in the front cantilevers and internal crush sleeves on the cantilever pivot posts so the retainer nut can be tightened down hard to eliminate play. The rear diff and gears are fresh and smooth. I will also include whatever other spares for the car I can find laying around.

Issues with the car: The outer edge of the top plate on the left side has started to delaminate. This is not an issue as the car is currently set up because the inner link pivot extension is close to the motor, rather than the outside edge of the top plate. The outer toe adjustment hole in the right side dynotech a-arm is broken but since that side has the 1.5 degree toe out hub, and the car us set for zero toe on that side, that hole is not being used.

I'm wanting to sell the car for $400 plus whatever it costs to ship. I am in New Jersey so, sadly, that means someone in California will pay more to get the car than someone in Pennsylvania. I think the price is reasonable given the features and parts on the car but I will consider offers if the car doesn't sell right away.

This is also listed on eBay, but the price there is somewhat higher to account for the eBay fees. Payment by PayPal (a discount for payment by U.S. Postal Money Order).

If someone were really intent on getting the electronics in the car, I could be persuaded to sell them with enough $$$, however the heatsink on the motor is not for sale for any reasonable price.

PM if interested. Below are links to all the pics I have taken. I did not include them in the post because there are many and they are large.

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Old 04-13-2013, 10:32 AM   #2
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