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Losi XXX-CR Buggy roller w/body AND 5 sets of mounted tires! $95 shipped!! >

Losi XXX-CR Buggy roller w/body AND 5 sets of mounted tires! $95 shipped!!

Losi XXX-CR Buggy roller w/body AND 5 sets of mounted tires! $95 shipped!!

Old 02-24-2013, 02:07 PM
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Default Losi XXX-CR Buggy roller w/body AND 5 sets of mounted tires! $95 shipped!!

SOLD
This buggy is in great condition. It comes with the body and rear wing pictured. I will also include the front spoiler which isn't pictured. It comes with the following mounted tires:

Rear-
BK Bars (pink) Just bought these and raced them twice (on car in pic)
Taper pin (pink)
mini-pin (not sure which compound)

Front-
Taper Pin (pink) Just bought these and raced them twice (on car in pic)
Ribbed (pink)

SOLD
Attached Thumbnails Losi XXX-CR Buggy roller w/body AND 5 sets of mounted tires!  shipped!!-photo-2.jpg   Losi XXX-CR Buggy roller w/body AND 5 sets of mounted tires!  shipped!!-photo-5.jpg   Losi XXX-CR Buggy roller w/body AND 5 sets of mounted tires!  shipped!!-photo-3.jpg   Losi XXX-CR Buggy roller w/body AND 5 sets of mounted tires!  shipped!!-photo-4.jpg   Losi XXX-CR Buggy roller w/body AND 5 sets of mounted tires!  shipped!!-photo-1.jpg  


Last edited by Bogucki; 02-27-2013 at 11:27 AM.
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:04 PM
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Is the XXX all graphite?
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:38 PM
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Yes it is. Thanks
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:12 AM
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Not to step on your toes. But the CR xxx buggies & trucks have EA3 composite parts 25% stronger than graphite. Probably 40% less likely to break under same hit. It's upgraded from the BK2 that was graphite. If it is a few grams heavier than graphite buggy with lipo brushless setup never be noticed. Except for this buggy's better durability,
Free bump for a very good deal
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:26 AM
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153,
Thanks for dropping some knowledge on me and the free bump!
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:33 AM
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Are these still competitive?
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by sbrewer View Post
Are these still competitive?
They can be. You can also get a XXXT chassis and install it (you'll need to get a different body for it though) and it makes the buggy much more stable and surprisingly good.
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by sbrewer View Post
Are these still competitive?
Yeah it is very competitive. If I didn't place in a race it was definitely driver error as opposed to the buggy itself!!
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:22 PM
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I own a xxx-cr and I have no problem beating the guys at my track! Great buggy and great price!
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Old 02-27-2013, 05:37 AM
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Default What I have learned about the XXX CR ...

The XXX will not be the lazy way to fast ... just buy the B4.2 or RB6 and start with a pro setup if you want that and can afford it.

That being said, there is a wealth of knowledge out there on how to tune a XXX (it has multiple national championships including 2010 and a couple of world titles) any which way and it has several advantages going for it in spite of its age. I haven't been able to race it because of schedule issues but have been driving and testing some things over the past few months while my son and I race a truck series.

For blinky 17.5 racing, it has a 2.43 internal gear ratio giving you great options to gear it up. I run mine with a 69 tooth jconcepts spur w/ B4 slipper plates and a 35t pinion and it flies with a SchuurSpeed, timing cranked, no issues with heat. It absolutely flies down the straight away and has plenty of punch in the infield.

Plastic and graphite quality is better on the XXX than Associated. Not an AE basher here ... I have a B44.2 and love it, and my son is building a B4.2. Just think it's true based on my experience.

All of the parts are still abundant and relatively cheap, if not locally then via internet sources. Talking to folks running the 22, it seems there are more supply issues with that car than the XXX -- one guy at our track had to run a gear diff for over a month because of scarcity on ball diff parts.

Key hop ups, like the lightweight plastic out drives (for 17.5 racing), are easy to find, and cheap.

It's tough enough -- my car only breaks when it should, and almost always where it should -- e.g., front arm.

It's stupid light -- with a bunch of added weight in front of the servo, in the front pivot block and in in front of the rear shock tower, and aluminum rear hubs and pivots, it weighs 1525 ready to race. I wouldn't want it any lighter.

Associated v2 and big bore shocks will easily retrofit. I have tested both but run v2's with big bore springs because I like the ease of bleeding with v2's over the XXX shocks and don't think big bores are needed for a 1520 gram car on an indoor track. The rears fit easily with Associated shock bushings and the fronts easily clear the towers with an extra washer and clear the camber link very easily if you use the Jconcept or Team C angled ball cups.

BTW, Associated v2's can use losi pistons so you can replicate XXX pro setups with them easily. I'm running Associated #2's front and rear with good results.

It is easier to set up to drive easily than a 22. Not saying it's faster (because driving, electronics and setup mean more than your choice of kit IMO), just saying if you put Casper's long arm setup on your car with the right tires it will just drive and drive well. It tends towards push rather than over rotation, but my car turns on a dime -- it's not hard to get it where you want it.

If you want, you can completely hop it up with all of the latest fads -- put hexes on the rear (why bother IMO), you can put a triad slipper on it (why bother for stock?), aluminum rear hubs (from the XXX-SCT line up or old Trinity), alloy pivot blocks (old trinity, losi or STRC), aluminum screws where it is safe (associated), CVD's (I run the stock universals right now), cab forward bodies (RB5 or Team C evo fit), big bores or just the springs.

Yes, you can make it longer with a truck chassis ... I plan to do so for outdoor season. You just need to find the original XXXT chassis, graphite or plastic.

The XXXT Cr chassis makes it longer than you want and I think it will exceed Roar length. You can use a standard XXX body -- just start with a new one and leave some of the extra lexan on at the front sides. Or I'm sure you could find something cab forward that will work.

You can even easily put the speed control where Ryan C. is putting his this week -- in the 22 position -- just cut a T-plate in half and mount with the shock tower screws. I run mine on the right side to balance the car, although I don't think that is needed with the newer lighter brushless motors.

But at the end of the day to be competitive at the local level with a solid car the only must haves IMO are titanium ball studs in the front camber links and rear shock tower and the Casper BK2 rear long arm setup if you are running on smoother tracks. That's ~ $30 worth of stuff. The rest is just bench racing, but fun to pursue anyhow.
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