B4 delrin A arms
#47
Any price break on a pr of T4 & BJ4we arms?
#49
Originally Posted by cjcoffroad
Could you post some pictures of the T4 arms mounted? Also, how much do they cost?
The arms will work on either left or right as well.
#50
Those do look pretty sweet....i like how they even LOOK strong....and how they shine.....
Maybe you guys should look into other parts too such as shock towers, caster blocks, steering bellcranks, rear hubs, etc....
I'd like to have a set of composite (NOT aluminum!!!) rear hubs with vertical ball studs for the B4/T4/BJ4....aluminums just don't work because Trinity and Racers' Edge both make them, but there are problems with them both because they're made of aluminum.....for the trinity's, the bearings don't fit tight and have lots of wheel slop....the Racers' Edge have slop in the hinge pin holes so you have that same wheel slop again (unless you get a new version which have set screws) but still, the R.E.'s have too many holes to choose from and causes fitting problems...if you use the two holes to the outside, the tie rod hits the inside of the hub when the suspension is compressed....unless you raise the crap out of the ball stud.....which is stupid and defeats the purpose.
Anyway, a set of rear hubs like the CR's for the B4/T4/BJ4 would be very cool with vertical ball studs.....only need two to three holes, and you could even have different toe-in hubs available as well in half degrees. Or you could basically copy a set of AE rear hubs and redrill the hinge pin hole at different angles to get more toe-in.....these would sell as well I'm sure as having more toe-in adjustments for the rear is a really good tuning tool to have.
Just some ideas.....
Maybe you guys should look into other parts too such as shock towers, caster blocks, steering bellcranks, rear hubs, etc....
I'd like to have a set of composite (NOT aluminum!!!) rear hubs with vertical ball studs for the B4/T4/BJ4....aluminums just don't work because Trinity and Racers' Edge both make them, but there are problems with them both because they're made of aluminum.....for the trinity's, the bearings don't fit tight and have lots of wheel slop....the Racers' Edge have slop in the hinge pin holes so you have that same wheel slop again (unless you get a new version which have set screws) but still, the R.E.'s have too many holes to choose from and causes fitting problems...if you use the two holes to the outside, the tie rod hits the inside of the hub when the suspension is compressed....unless you raise the crap out of the ball stud.....which is stupid and defeats the purpose.
Anyway, a set of rear hubs like the CR's for the B4/T4/BJ4 would be very cool with vertical ball studs.....only need two to three holes, and you could even have different toe-in hubs available as well in half degrees. Or you could basically copy a set of AE rear hubs and redrill the hinge pin hole at different angles to get more toe-in.....these would sell as well I'm sure as having more toe-in adjustments for the rear is a really good tuning tool to have.
Just some ideas.....
#51
These look great. Nice job.
I know these are stronger but how do the delrin versions compare to the originals in terms of weight (?
Are the T4s also $25 shipped per pair?
Thanks.
I know these are stronger but how do the delrin versions compare to the originals in terms of weight (?
Are the T4s also $25 shipped per pair?
Thanks.
#52
Originally Posted by apenn
These look great. Nice job.
I know these are stronger but how do the delrin versions compare to the originals in terms of weight (?
Are the T4s also $25 shipped per pair?
Thanks.
I know these are stronger but how do the delrin versions compare to the originals in terms of weight (?
Are the T4s also $25 shipped per pair?
Thanks.
Yes $25 is shipped for two arms.
#53
GT2 front arms? They are very close to the T4.
#59
BJ4 arms.....
Hmmm..... I do have a birthday coming up this month..... Although, "knock on wood", I haven't managed to break an arm on my W.E. just yet.....maybe luckier than most I suppose, but I haven't hit anything significantly hard or at least perpendicularly against an immoveable object, which you would have to do to split an arm and at a fairly good speed IMO. However, I'm sure I will at some point or another, and probably sooner than later. (This is in absolutely NO attempt at bragging, but the car pretty much drives itself, and is so damn impressive when it comes to reliability for a 4 wheeler.)
I've broken ball cups in half (which is why I usually use losi white naturals now on all my cars....the grays are too strong and develop way too much slop on the ball joint itself for some reason. They do stay on VERY well, but seem to develop a lot of play in the cup creating too much suspension and/or steering inconsistencies)....but, ANYWAY....(sorry to get off topic....that was really unnecessary)
J.C. did do a good job on upgrading the arms for the W.E., but sounds like these new delrin arms would be just the ticket to practically bullet proof the front end. Plus they do just look cool by being different. Gotta love the shiny, sharp-edged machined look! How about rear arms as well for the B4/BJ4???
I've broken ball cups in half (which is why I usually use losi white naturals now on all my cars....the grays are too strong and develop way too much slop on the ball joint itself for some reason. They do stay on VERY well, but seem to develop a lot of play in the cup creating too much suspension and/or steering inconsistencies)....but, ANYWAY....(sorry to get off topic....that was really unnecessary)
J.C. did do a good job on upgrading the arms for the W.E., but sounds like these new delrin arms would be just the ticket to practically bullet proof the front end. Plus they do just look cool by being different. Gotta love the shiny, sharp-edged machined look! How about rear arms as well for the B4/BJ4???
#60
How much longer on the bj4 we arms? I really need a set i been breaking front arms landing perfectly on all 4 wheels must the cold or something ...