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CRC Carpet Knife 3.2R--BRAND new and fully loaded!!

CRC Carpet Knife 3.2R--BRAND new and fully loaded!!

Old 11-15-2006, 03:31 PM
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Default CRC Carpet Knife 3.2R -- BRAND new and fully loaded!!

I built this car to be my personal race ride this season, but plans have changed and I’m offering it for sale instead. This car has the very best of pretty much everything that can be bought or made for a Carpet Knife and every single bit of it is BRAND new. The first time this chassis had wheels bolted to it was to take these pics—it has never had a motor or batteries even laid in it.

The cost to duplicate this car using Stormer prices where possible is $377 (though I’m sure I’ve forgotten something) and does not count the hours (and hours and hours) that were spent assembling it to the excellent standard shown in Mark Payne’ blog on Carpet Knife construction.

What’s here?

Base CRC Carpet Knife v3.2R kit $220 from Stormer
CRC machined Delrin upper arms 13 from Stormer
CRC machined Delrin steering blocks 11 from Stormer
CRC front suspension brace 10 from Stormer
CRC machined upper arm mounts (3 @ $11 ea) 33 from Stormer
10-degree on chassis, 0 and 5 degree nip
CRC machined aluminum servo mount 15 from CRC
CRC low roll-center kit 13 from Stormer
IRS “lowered” lower front arms (run smaller tires) 7 from Stormer
Niftech polished bronze precision pivot balls 15 from Niftech
Lunsford titanium camber adjustment turnbuckles 10.50 from Lunsford
Lunsford titanium kingpins 6 from Lunsford
Lunsford titanium “Punisher” tie-rod turnbuckles 10.50 from Lunsford
Slapmaster front bumper 7 from Slapmaster
Du-Bro 2-56 / 4-40 ball link ends (4 @ $1.50) 6 from LHS

-----------------------
Total cash outlay to duplicate this car $377.00

I ended up paying full retail price for most of this stuff directly from Calandra since Stormer didn’t have much of it in-stock when I bought it all--but that’s not your problem, so I guess I eat the difference.

You also get the “standard” kit parts shown which include the upper and lower arms, steering blocks, camber turnbuckles, adjustable servo mount, kit pivot balls, remaining rear height adjuster inserts and the unused kit allen wrenches. You also see the 0 and 5 degree machined aluminum upper arm braces nip that are included.

The tires are grey rear and purple front, Calandra, and new (of course).

In assembly, the upper arm pivot pins are carefully polished and fitted, the kingpins were de-burred and lightly polished, the steering blocks were reamed to size after the axles installed to keep them from sticking on the kingpins. The steering blocks are also bushed to properly fit the 2-56 hardware on the ball link ends.

You will note that the tie-rod assemblies are VERY much non-standard and are built to provide a virtually no-slop front end, unlike anything built with “normal” ball ends. The white marks are my way of indexing turnbuckle components during assembly so that all four are lengthened by turning forward, shortened by turning back. This takes the guesswork (and valuable time) out of race-day adjustment. Just remember...white = right.

Car was set-up and measured from a glass sheet. Rear shock end lengths trimmed/adjusted to provide zero droop (flat on glass) at full extension. Front bumper is trimmed to clear upper arms and personal transponder—it all fits like it was specifically made for this car.

All you need to do is install your motor and electronics and make final adjustments to suit your track, set-up and driving style. Then race away!!

Price? I will sell the car for $350 plus $5 priority/confirmed shipping to CONUS addresses. Outside CONUS at cost.

Servo, servo saver, and personal transponder ARE NOT included in this sale. I will sell this servo (JR3550, lightly used—was my back-up last season) for $40 or a brand new Airtronics 94141 for $35 with the purchase of the chassis. The PT is not for sale. Yet.

Please feel free to check my feedback here on RC Tech or 8+ years perfect on e-Bay under ssmith2. Do not hesitate to e-mail me on [email protected] if I can answer any additional questions.

Don’t wait around or it’ll be GONE!!

Last edited by Scottrik; 06-27-2008 at 04:32 PM.
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Old 11-15-2006, 03:39 PM
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More pics...

Last edited by Scottrik; 06-27-2008 at 04:32 PM.
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Old 11-15-2006, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Scottrik
I built this car to be my personal race ride this season, but plans have changed and I’m offering it for sale instead. This car has the very best of pretty much everything that can be bought or made for a Carpet Knife and every single bit of it is BRAND new. The first time this chassis had wheels bolted to it was to take these pics—it has never had a motor or batteries even laid in it.

The cost to duplicate this car using Stormer prices where possible is $377 (though I’m sure I’ve forgotten something) and does not count the hours (and hours and hours) that were spent assembling it to the excellent standard shown in Mark Payne’ blog on Carpet Knife construction.

What’s here?

Base CRC Carpet Knife v3.2R kit $220 from Stormer
CRC machined Delrin upper arms 13 from Stormer
CRC machined Delrin steering blocks 11 from Stormer
CRC front suspension brace 10 from Stormer
CRC machined upper arm mounts (3 @ $11 ea) 33 from Stormer
10-degree on chassis, 0 and 5 degree nip
CRC machined aluminum servo mount 15 from CRC
CRC low roll-center kit 13 from Stormer
IRS “lowered” lower front arms (run smaller tires) 7 from Stormer
Niftech polished bronze precision pivot balls 15 from Niftech
Lunsford titanium camber adjustment turnbuckles 10.50 from Lunsford
Lunsford titanium kingpins 6 from Lunsford
Lunsford titanium “Punisher” tie-rod turnbuckles 10.50 from Lunsford
Slapmaster front bumper 7 from Slapmaster
Du-Bro 2-56 / 4-40 ball link ends (4 @ $1.50) 6 from LHS

-----------------------
Total cash outlay to duplicate this car $377.00

I ended up paying full retail price for most of this stuff directly from Calandra since Stormer didn’t have much of it in-stock when I bought it all--but that’s not your problem, so I guess I eat the difference.

You also get the “standard” kit parts shown which include the upper and lower arms, steering blocks, camber turnbuckles, adjustable servo mount, kit pivot balls, remaining rear height adjuster inserts and the unused kit allen wrenches. You also see the 0 and 5 degree machined aluminum upper arm braces nip that are included.

The tires are grey rear and purple front, Calandra, and new (of course).

In assembly, the upper arm pivot pins are carefully polished and fitted, the kingpins were de-burred and lightly polished, the steering blocks were reamed to size after the axles installed to keep them from sticking on the kingpins. The steering blocks are also bushed to properly fit the 2-56 hardware on the ball link ends.

You will note that the tie-rod assemblies are VERY much non-standard and are built to provide a virtually no-slop front end, unlike anything built with “normal” ball ends. The white marks are my way of indexing turnbuckle components during assembly so that all four are lengthened by turning forward, shortened by turning back. This takes the guesswork (and valuable time) out of race-day adjustment. Just remember...white = right.

Car was set-up and measured from a glass sheet. Rear shock end lengths trimmed/adjusted to provide zero droop (flat on glass) at full extension. Front bumper is trimmed to clear upper arms and personal transponder—it all fits like it was specifically made for this car.

All you need to do is install your motor and electronics and make final adjustments to suit your track, set-up and driving style. Then race away!!

Price? I will sell the car for $350 plus $5 priority/confirmed shipping to CONUS addresses. Outside CONUS at cost.

Servo, servo saver, and personal transponder ARE NOT included in this sale. I will sell this servo (JR3550, lightly used—was my back-up last season) for $40 or a brand new Airtronics 94141 for $35 with the purchase of the chassis. The PT is not for sale. Yet.

Please feel free to check my feedback here on RC Tech or 8+ years perfect on e-Bay under ssmith2. Do not hesitate to e-mail me on [email protected] if I can answer any additional questions.

Don’t wait around or it’ll be GONE!!

Hi,

Let me first say that I am NOT bashing here...just would like confirmation on your post.

Are you saying that to duplicate your car it would cost $377 plus our own time and you are selling your car for $27 less than new price?

Thanks, Mike

Last edited by Michal101; 11-15-2006 at 08:13 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 11-15-2006, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Michal101
Hi,

Let me fist say that I am NOT bashing here...just would like confirmation on your post.

Are you saying that to duplicate your car it would cost $377 plus our own time and you are selling your car for $27 less than new price?

Thanks, Mike
Time Is Money Someone Had To Build It

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Old 11-15-2006, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Michal101
Let me fist say that I am NOT bashing here...just would like confirmation on your post.

Are you saying that to duplicate your car it would cost $377 plus our own time and you are selling your car for $27 less than new price?
Yes Mike, it is pretty much exactly $27 less. That is close to a 10% discount on already discounted prices on the parts alone. And at that I eat the postage charge from each of those sources listed which you can bet ran $7 to $10 each.

Then yes, I'm donating my time--and there was a LOT of it spent building this car. I don't know what YOU work for per hour, but I value my free time pretty highly. More than I work for, that's for sure. If you're looking for a car that was slapped together like most of 'em are this maybe isn't the car for you (unless you like 10% off already discounted prices...I should trademark that ). Most people also haven't invested in the taps, pivot ball insertion presses, etc that I have to assemble these. There are, I believe, 8 different taps used to build this car, right and left-hand threaded. They aren't on your local Walmart shelf either and when you DO find them they aren't given away. But I'm, essentially, letting you borrow them for free by building "your" car with them.

If you value a properly put together car that had nothing but attention lavished upon it AND you want...that's right...10% (plus post) off of already discounted prices on the parts alone then this car is a bargain.

I'm betting someone will be willing to pay for quality...pay for something that every time they have to put a wrench to it they say "ahhhhh...this fits SO nicely", etc. Plus I'm not exagerating in any way--every single bit of this car is BRAND brand new, purchased to build what I thought would be my ultimate 1/12 weapon, and had never seen use of any sort other than to be lovingly massaged and assembled into the car you see here.

Thanks,

Scottrik

Last edited by Scottrik; 11-15-2006 at 09:49 PM.
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Old 11-15-2006, 09:38 PM
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A couple people have pm'ed asking about the "bushed" steering blocks for the 2-56 hardware and the Niftech polished bronze precision pivot balls.

Here is what Niftech says about their pivot balls:

Precision Bronze Pivot Balls
1000 Series (Car Accessories)
Product Number: #1003-01
Keywords: pivot ball
''Precision Bronze Pivot Balls'' for Associated Dynamic Strut Front End

(Recommend Niftech Insertion Tool #3200)

Features:

1. Will not wear out like stock plastic pivot balls.
1. ''Ultra precision.'' Closer tolerance than stock.
2. ''Super high micro polish'' for smooth action.
3. Better handling, more responsive in turns.

I've been using these on all my personal cars for a couple years now and wouldn't build a car without them. They make the stock plastic balls look sick.

The steering block bushings are made by hand from brass tubing that is re-sized to fit the 2-56 hardware and then pressed into the drilled-out steering arm. The tie rods take the most time of all to do, mostly due to having to make these bushings. The lack of play in this steering assembly has to be seen and felt to be believed. I've done a few cars like this and no one can believe it. Everybody wants me to do theirs, but no way I can spend that kind of time except on my own cars.

Pictures below.

Scottrik

Last edited by Scottrik; 06-27-2008 at 04:32 PM.
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Old 11-16-2006, 12:01 AM
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Bump up for Scottrik.
he's a stand up guy..had dealings with before...never faltered once..

And it's true there are quite a few people that do value a precision built car.....heaven knows a 12 scale car is a mess if built incorrectly

Car looks great.
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Old 11-16-2006, 07:32 AM
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am bump

Thanks for looking
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Old 11-16-2006, 05:28 PM
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Bump.

I'd also look at trades for a new GFX35 or (w/cash) EXCELLENT used unit.

PM me with what you've got.

Thanks,

Scottrik
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Old 11-17-2006, 08:14 AM
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Old 11-17-2006, 04:03 PM
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Old 11-18-2006, 06:03 AM
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