View Poll Results: What is your Favorite Airbrush?
Iwata
59.97%
Paashe
16.91%
Badger
14.27%
Other
10.85%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 1254. You may not vote on this poll

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YOUR FAVORITE AIRBRUSH

Old 01-30-2006, 11:36 PM
  #76  
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If you use Qtips and pipe cleaners to clean your airbrush, make sure you flush your brush extremely well. Those items can leave fibers in your airbrush that will attract paint and clog it up easier. That container idea is a good one. Just don't leave your caps inside or they'll rust or fall apart. I use a glass container with a screw on lid. Then your can shake the jar to clean your parts. This work extremely well!

I would suggest going down to the art store, or where ever you get your airbrush supplies, and purchase a set of airbrush brushes. They are similar to pipe cleaners but aren't made of fiberous materials. So you won't get stuff stuck inside your airbrush.

While your cleaning your airbrush get yourself some of these.


Squeeze bottles can be purchased at art supply stores or even beauty supply shops.

Fill them up with either windex, rubbing alcohol, denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner. What ever your choice of thinning/cleaning solution may be. Then when you go to clean out your airbrush just insert the nossle into your airbrush (where you attach the bottle on a siphon fed), flip your airbrush over, pull the trigger full blast and squeeze the bottle. This will force any paint out quickly.

If you have a gravity airbrush this kinda works, but it's a little harder to get the nossle in. Oh, and you don't need to flip your airbrush over.

Ideally, you shouldn't have to tear down your airbrush to clean it. AND NEVER SOAK YOUR AIRBRUSH. Soaking can ruin the o-rings inside the airbrush and cause unwanted leaking. Try not to disassemble your airbrush too often. This can wear out the threads and also cause air leakage. I've had my airbrushes for years and rarely tear them down to clean them. Just a good long blash of your cleaner or thinner at the end of a paint session will do the job. Also visit the Coast Airbrush website (http://www.coastairbrush.com) and buy yourself some airolube. This will keep the insides of your airbrush lubed and prevent paint from sticking inside (you only need a drop or two when you're done painting). It also helps paint flow nicer out of your brush. Just make sure before you begin painting, you spray any remaining lube out and run some cleaner/thinner through it. I wrote a complete cleaning and maintaining your paint equipment article in XRC magazine a few months back. I don't remember what issue though. If someone knows please post it. Shane??

Last edited by dpalXRC; 01-30-2006 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 02-07-2006, 04:40 PM
  #77  
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Quick question. I'm looking into getting an Iwata brush for my fine line stuff, mostly shading. My Paasch does pretty good for the big stuff. I'm wondering if anyone knows the difference between the HP-C and the HP-CS. I'm guessing the CS is a new version of the C but not sure. Thanks.
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Old 02-07-2006, 05:11 PM
  #78  
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Great choice for going with Iwata brushes!!

I have both models you are interested in. The HP-C is an older model then the HP-CS (elclipse) but I prefer the HP-C over the HP-CS only because it has a .3 needle then the .35 needle on the CS for fin hairline spray. Also the HP-C is made for all types of media (solvent-base paints)witch more likely to clog your brush.

Good luck & Happy Painting!
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Old 02-12-2006, 11:20 AM
  #79  
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ok lemme brace myself for the hit... :-)



What do you guys think of Airbrush City?? They make a brush much like the one by Iwata (gravity feed)....I'm looking at getting back into using airbrushes again (for my r/c bodies) and since it'll only be for that, do you ppl think their units will do the job?
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Old 02-21-2006, 07:00 PM
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My fave so far is my HP-CS. It's got a nice 1/3 oz top feed cup, great when I do my figure models and static car models

Last edited by Miki01; 03-02-2006 at 06:54 PM.
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Old 03-05-2006, 09:00 AM
  #81  
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Chalk one more up for the HP-CS. I went to Coastairbrush yesterday with the intentions of getting my VL to where t would just pull paint yesterday. It was my first dual actionand i inhereted it so i had no idea what kind of shape it was in. One thing i will say about the Paasche is that it only cost $10 bucks to get it working again. But after using the Iwata last night i dont think i will use the VL much. Much smoother and i could run much lower pressure and clean up is no comparrison! I was about ready to give on painting before i got the Iwata!
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Old 03-08-2006, 06:27 AM
  #82  
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Hey there's a guy on ebay selling an Iwata knock-off called a Sogolee. Anybody heard of these, ever seen one, heard about one, anything? I know there's no substitute for a real Iwata. I was just wondering.
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Old 03-15-2006, 11:25 AM
  #83  
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Hey JetMD for what the Sogolee are going for on ebay (or what they used to sell at, not sure what they go for now) it's a bargain. Consider that Sogolee is one of the largest AB manufacturers in the world and makes AB's for other brands. I played with the idea of a Sogolee but ended up just getting the Iwata and haven't regretted it.

to add to the discussion, I had been a Paasche VL user for over a decade and a half until I finally did bend and bought an HP-C. I still use the Paasche for some things but the Iwata is what I love to use. I like the fact that parts are cheap and plentiful for the VL but there is no way it shoots near as smooth or fine as the Iwata. It's been a pleasure going from siphon to gravity, no .... i'll say a downright joy!

The Paasche is a fine brush the Iwata is just that much better and this is from a staunch/long time VL user. A friend of mine has found exactly the same thing. He doesn't even use his Paasche's anymore.

I just popped in to see what some of my favorite painters have been up to, I haven't been painting bodies for a while now but still have interest. Good to see the skill level increasing and some really nice work. Good job guys!

-Q
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Old 03-23-2006, 03:24 PM
  #84  
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Hi guys, Im looking to get into aibrushing. I was wondering what is a good air brush? I have access to a big air compressor. Should I use a compressor or canned air? I know some techniqes from reading and have used spray cans many times before. Thank you for your suggestions.
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Old 05-10-2006, 03:24 PM
  #85  
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Can anyone give me a sugguestion to a good starter airbrush... I'm not looking to do this professional, just need to paint my R/C bodys... I would assume that IWATA is a good brand, but which model?
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Old 05-15-2006, 04:03 AM
  #86  
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Badger 150, modified with a sotar 2020 head and nedel. Thats my choice.

I dont often airbrush Lexan shells, I'm an airbrush artist for cars and bikes ect.

This is my latest creation actualy done with a Badger 155.
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 05-15-2006, 06:44 AM
  #87  
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bvoltz,

I recently purchased an Iwata HP-CS as recommended here, and I couldn't be more pleased. This is also my first airbrush and I've found the HP-CS to be very easy on a beginner. Right now, I'm using it with a big, garage aircompressor until I can decide on small, quiet one for the basement and it works just fine. The only paint I've been spraying has been the Parma Fascolour. Good luck.
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Old 06-12-2006, 03:33 AM
  #88  
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anyone here using tamiya's airbrush???how izzit???any good???
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Old 06-13-2006, 02:58 AM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by ntc3freak
anyone here using tamiya's airbrush???how izzit???any good???

anyone,n also,any reliable online shop that sell paasche airbrush ,compressor n also ship internationally???thanks
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Old 06-13-2006, 06:16 AM
  #90  
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Yap. Tamiya made good airbrush, i'm using one currently. Too bad they only have the 0.2mm nozzle (for fine lines). You will have to use a 0.3mm or larger nozzle to cover large areas of work...
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