ntc3freak

so the end point is if u want to buy iwata hp-ch,get a paasche for the large work?? right??

EVILGRAFX

iTrader: (36)

I use Iwata for large stuff too, HP-BCS (Eclipse) works great for covering larger areas.

There's an Iwata for everything and they're all great brushes.

wes

iTrader: (1)

ntc3 freak just get a cheap dual action siphon feed to do solid colors and a nice gravity fed to do details with i just use paasche others use bager others use iwata just get what you can theres never goign to be an end to this brush is better than this brush

ntc3freak

lol i noe.coz so many people never said a lot of bad things about iwata,i reckon it is damn good.n paasche has been getting good reviews too.is iwata hp-ch good for detail work??? or other alternatives(iwata only).i only need it to do detail work.i'll use paasche for large work.thank you

wes

iTrader: (1)

my hp ch sucks it was way overpriced and dosent spray anything worth taking a second look at and its sooo uncomfterbal to hold you get a cramp by holding it for like a minute. try that other one everyone always talks about and if you dont like it try the paasche detail brush the paasche detail is way cheaper too and comes with gear like a hose and tools and extra needles. but with the paasche if you get one use a bit of air pressure like 35 - 45 and with that iwata the ch worked its best at 20 flat and ive heard that the other iwata works good around 30 but just get them and try and if you dont like them ebay them or something and if you keep it in nice condition and clean it often you can get aroudn what you paid for it.

VenomWorldOrder

dude, i don't know if you are 100% sure what you are talking about!? the CH is the same shape as the "other" iwatas you are talking about, except it has a small "gooseneck" type shape infront of the air hose fitting. this doesn't affect the feel of the brush in the hand. also, the CH is capable of finer lines. i've done some really thin lines on a lexan body with the ch, and it has the added advantage of a pressure valve on the brush so you can adjust PSI from the brush. it does everything from 2mm - 3mm thick lines to large areas. any lines finer than this is difficult on lexan due to the mexan not absorbing the paint like paper. on paper i can do very thin lines (1.5mm type stuff, if not thinner... i didn't measure the lines though )

wes

iTrader: (1)

ok dude your right im wrong i mean id ont have the brush at all or have any experience with any other brushes even though ive used most of the gravity fed iwatas and the paasche's i didnt buy the cheaper iwata brush becuase when i used it to test it out i get better look and feel out of my siphon feed brush. and i mean yea you can get really small lines out of a gravity fed but i can get hairs out of my siphon feed paasche brush and it was what 130 dollars cheaper and looks feels and sprays better. im sure youve only used 1 or 2 brushes and thats why you say the iwata is the best trust me on a daily basis i uses 4 not including different needle mixtures for different paints and different things. anyways if you want to use that pressure valve that means you havent got air pressure working at all once you get that sweet spot you wont ever need to change the pressure again i spray both paasches at about 40 and the iwata at 20 flat never change it. i get the best smoothness out of the paint at those pressures and anyday the paasche spray looks better its smoother and easier to predict. and just becuase it can go small dosent mean everything any brush can go small its just can it go small and keep the paint looking nice and not splatter like crazy as most brushes do. but whatever you must know more about it than me even though ive been doign this for quite a while i attached a picture to show the difference in comfort im talking about i have small hands and even the iwata is a little funkey for me.

Scott S

iTrader: (30)

Wow, this thread is really heating up. It's just a freakin airbrush guys. Calm your pitts

I like my Iwata HP-CS.

charlie_b

iTrader: (1)

My favorite brush is the HP-cH. Hands down i have used the Badgers and the Paasche's as well as a few line of Iwatas. The comfort thing is a preference issue, nothing else. That is mainly up to the handler fo the brush.

As far as Iwata being a bad brush...well...not because im a hardcore Iwata user, but the fact that Many Many painters attest to it's quality and craftmanship as well as its ease of spray. There is going to be painters who dislike the "popular" idea. That is fine too. But ask all Iwata users who came from Badgers or Paasche like me and ask why they made the switch. The will attest the same thing. Its smoothness, ease of use....you all heard this before.

As far as Air Pressure, there is no TRUE rule to this. There are WAAAY more variables to situations to make rules for this situation.
1.Paint. Yes, we all know that there are different kinds of paints. Obviously, the Createx paints are thicker than the laquer based paints. But it goes further than that. (im talking about Createx)
Createx naturally has thicker paints. So you say HP-CH works with 20 PSI. I can not shoot any Createx with 20 PSi unless i thin it. Especially with the .35mmm tip. Its almost impossible to get good flow. The pressure control knob allows you to control pressure so you can use higher psi and go low with out changing the regualor in the compressor. I dont think i have ever needed to find a "SWEETSPOT" because it has always sprayed and laid paint exaclty how it should have. I think the only mistakes were the ones i made.
2. Location. Because my paints are exposed to the outdoors, where i paint with a lot of ventilation, my paints are naturally thicker due to the elements. Shelf life is lessened in result.
3.Temperature. I paint at night(when I ususally paint) the paints are very cold and much thicker than normal. I also think when they are stored indoors they are less prone to thickenning as well as have a longer shelf life. I have to adjust to my conditions to acheive my desired results. More PSI, to push the thicker paints.
4.Type. You also can not compare an HPC-H with another brush that is made to be more application specific. The HPC-H is an Illustrator's brush. It is meant for the thinner paints used for illustration, not THICK Full covering jobs. Because of the fact that is has a smaller tip compared to your badger should ultimately tell you they are not really amde for the same applications. You need to be able to know what brush to use for what application. That is why they have differnt brushes made. To fit application-specific requirements from the painter.
If you truly want to compare brush to brush, match the HPC with the best Paasche and Badger with the same specs. Then have people test to see what they like and dislike. The SAME paints must be used have the same consistency for all brushes.

Is Iwata HPCH a bad brush? i don't think so at all.
Is Iwata HPCH a rip off? certainly not
Is Iwata HPCH overpriced? No. BEcause with that added feature(the [ressure controller) it has made my painting experisnce more coonvenient as well as more of a pleasure to use. Thinner tip, (a Tamiya tip costs $70+ bux),a Pressure Contrloller(im sure if u were to get that machined for your airbrush would not be anything less than $100) and Preset Handle(to keep an adjustment for fine detail, etc, $60) i think you are getting a lot of bang for your buck with this brush. Instead of hating a product because of it's name, See what it is. I think with all its features, it should be about $400 in my opinion.

wes

iTrader: (1)

charlie i got the brush becuase yea its supposed to be cream of the crop brush and with a .35 tip i was thing yea thats sorta big compared to the .1 on the paasche but its made for waterbase right? well i cracked it open and couldnt do anything suefull with it thus im selling it now the paasche was made for painting fingernails if thats not closer or more precise than illistrating i dont know what is but anyways im done rc tech just ends up with everyone fighting

charlie_b

iTrader: (1)

Wes, there are different kinds of waterbased paints. There are the textile paints, like Createx and Faskolor which needs teh extra thickness so they do not fade durring wash cycles.
There are the more thinner water based paints, like COMART that is meant to be used on either paper or canvas. ALso, the Urathane paints like House of Kolor arwe naturally thinner and require less air, hense the lower volume of spray, but way more control of the brush. i think the misconception of the HPC-H as the BOMB brush is true, but i think for normal RC apps, the Eclipse .5mm series is best suited for 90% of all rc apps for painting.

Not all Waterbased paints are the same. Just because it is watgerbased, it doesnt mean the viscosuties will be similar. So i would like ro re interate that teh brushes you use are going to ahve to have certain specific applications. For spraying ALL kinds of paint adn achieve FINE lines, i would recommend the Eclipse period. For 98% of teh painters, you can achieve pretty much anything with it.

BTW, painting fingernails are used with stencils. Any airbrush can be used for stencils.

Im not trying to be smug by anymeans, just correcting a few misconceptions about certain things. I am not fighting anyone, just clarifying information that is obviusly misconstrued.

eh.jay

Has anyone ever tried the Iwata HP-CR?

JetMD

iTrader: (1)

was wondering how you guys usually go about cleaning your airbrush. I spend most of my time cleaning when i'm painting and was just wondering if anyone has any tips on cleaning. Thanks.

HotrodHopkins

iTrader: (31)

get a big bottle of polycarb thinner. Put some in a little (really little) tuppaware container to soak your bottle's cups in. I have lots of q-tips. I use Testor's airbrush cleaning station, and i use craft pipe cleaners to clean siphon straws, and other holes in stuff cause i gets in them and scrubs, hope this helps.

eh.jay

anyone??