cripplethreat

iTrader: (6)

I have a Master but found it be hard to shoot with consistency and really hard to clean.

What's a good option for a beginner to buy in the 100 range?

extremepaint

let me make this simple

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BQ...7OL&ref=plSrch

if you look around they are out there for about 70 bucks.

if you save that money buy a .5mm nozzle and a .5mm needle.

this is my work horse setup and will do everything that you want it to.

Viking Racing

iTrader: (2)

Absolutely right! The Iwata eclipse is by far the best for the money.[

QUOTE=extremepaint;14186088]let me make this simple

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...6VWHV0ZHJSQ1AK

if you look around they are out there for about 70 bucks.

if you save that money buy a .5mm nozzle and a .5mm needle.

this is my work horse setup and will do everything that you want it to.[/QUOTE]

Drerc

You can buy whatever gun you want, but at the end of the day, you will buy an Eclipse. They are (i.m.o) the best airbrushes for RC Cars all around. From nice detail to big coverage and in between, it's all possible with the HP-CS

jrmarquez.702

iTrader: (98)

I love my iwata eclipse. I tried the .5 conversion on it and I hate it. I can do everything I need with the stock needle/nozzle.
*** I do need to find where you guys get them for $70 though.....***

extremepaint

Interesting you didnt like the .5 conversion, unless your spraying well thinned paints and going for detail at low pressure. I cant imagine why it would give you issue.

With the .5 i bump up my airpressure to about 80-90psi and use it for the thicker faskolor, auto air, createx stuff, it also works well for atomotove paint formulated for refinishing.

The 70 dollar eclipses can be found being shipped out of japan. Poke around on amazon and you shoukd be able to find em. Also craigslist pawn shops and hobbshops artstores going out of buissness.

Another thing i do is purchase broken iwatas then use silver solder and a torch to peice them back together.

Ive gotten 2 eclipse and an hp-c for free becauze people thought it cant be fixed

jrmarquez.702

iTrader: (98)

I thin down most of my createx paints. I like to be able to detail at 15-20 psi. I will kick it up to 50 psi if I'm doing a big area. I always use wicked 4012 reducer.
I couldn't get tight lines when I used the .5 conversion.

extremepaint

That would be why, the .5 is great for spraying at higher psi. I get good control over thicker paints (thicker than milk) and i can shoot out alot of color, fast. But you need at least 50 psi to do it. Id often spray at 90-120psi just using shop air. Its miserable for doing hair line details. And will cause dry tip. But in terms of coverage speed and replacent cost it cant be beat. For fine details i will end up using a micron with a .23 tip and using paints reduced to consistancy of water.

My .5mm recomendation is for begginers and people that need a "workhorse". Often times begginers get confused with reducing or how to do it. I just tell em crank up the pressure and use the larger tip sizes. By the time they have enough skill to render small details, smaller than what the setup is capable off. They will know how why and where to use a smaller nozzle size.

That being said i have one eclipse in .35 i have 2 in .5 and one i will be throwing a .6mm combo on. I just wish it didnt cost so much.

I also have a micron and 5 hp-c's that utilize .2mm nozzles


Also my airbrushes are setup to do tiny details or paint very very large items the size of a full scale vehicle or bigger. The hpc gets used for doing murals and canvas work. The micron is for the high end jobs, and the eclipses are for almost everything else including canvas and mural work. I generally like them better than the hp-c because the cup is easier to clean.

I airbrush nearly all day long so i guess my priorities are diffrent.

I also have a perminent nub on my middle finger, from where it sits. Id that tells ya anything

extremepaint

Also amazon changed my link somehow. Do not shop at walmart unless its house of kolor products lol just search best deal on amazon amd you should find cheap eclipses

extremepaint

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is...=Eclipse+iwata

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Best bang for the buck I found to NOT be Iwata. While they are damn good, they can be just as hit or miss as some others.

I did a bit of research and found knockoffs that work flawlessly well and cost less than most brand brushes.

I got the Veda 180 initially and liked it so much I bought a 2nd lower end 130E model so I can work faster and that one actually sprays a tad better overall, but for fine detail work (I'm far form a pro and am still learning how to create those details as I go) the 180 in one of you pros' hands would be dynamite!

http://www.pecoglobal.com/veda_180_n...0_new-pack.htm
http://www.pecoglobal.com/Veda_wd_13...da_wd_130e.htm

Some of the research I did explained how Iwata brushes were initially made in Japan but for some years have been outsourcing to china, and the "rebadged" brushes were to be actual Iwata brushes but were rejected due to cosmetic flaws that do not affect their functionality.

Again, I'm not a pro, but the results I've been able to achieve are pretty damn impressive and there is no doubt in my mind that in a professional's hands they'd spray like $500+ brushes just the same.

One last thing, Ultrasonic Cleaners are your best friend!!!

I've torn down my brushes to bare bits and clean every last bit to what appears to be a showroom finish, but I drop everything into the ultrasonic bath and turn it on to see paint and solvents emerge from little nooks and crannies the naked eye cannot see.

My brother-in-law is a professional painter and he advised me to get one. Best advice ever!
This is the one I have: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SOQ6KQ/...rly-secrets-20

extremepaint

I have used a few micron knock offs, what i found is they do spray fine, the problem is that the orings and parts are not solvent resistant. And deteriorate over time rendering thr brush useless And compaired to its actual counterpart it doesnt perform as consistantly or with the smoothness i was used to in the micron. It was a diffrent brand though. So take it for what its worth. I also couldnt locate parts at the time, amd the micron parts are not interchangable

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

I agree the O-rings are really crappy but you can buy high quality O-rings from McMaster and the brush will sing! FWIW, a buddy of mine had his HP-CS get tacky and gummy on him as well using solvent based paints. We both used acetone to thin a few times which is when we noticed the issue more prominently. With Lacquer thinner they were both pretty smooth.

Still I've begun using my good ole Formula-44D paintball lube I used to make which is specifically engineered for O-rings and does a good job of shedding off solvents for a while. When my brushes become tacky I simply tear them down and relate properly and they're back. A bit of a pain but I'm ordering those O-rings SOON!