wreckya

iTrader: (1)

How does this hold up vs the whole drywall/shoe goo backing. Painting a body right know w tamiya rattle cans white and wanna do somethin faster than the drywall tape to help the body last. Also do I have to or should wait 24hrs before backing paint? Or using the truck? Just finished paint now and wanted to use it in 4hrs, been drying w hairdryer? Thanks

kinetisist

iTrader: (31)

the whole point of tape and shoe goo is to reinforce the body .. If you are just looking to have the paint past longer than a few coats of enamel paint will do ... you can also use silicone and tape .. BTW the shoe goo dries pretty fast and if you wear gloves it is pretty easy and realitively fast to do all the reinforcing of a body.

Sk3tch

iTrader: (8)

Personally speaking...bed liner is the most durable backer I've used. I learned from a fellow painter to back is as soon as it's dry to the touch...later is ok too; but waiting for it to cure isn't really necessary. What happens (at least for water based paints) is it literally melts to the last coat...fusing it hard when it cures.

I listed some IMPORTANT notes to use it properly:

-Be careful with spaz stix and candies (rcs brand...etc)! I've have some issues where it hazes these paints. I've never backed tamiya or rattle cans with Bed liner so be sure to do a test piece! It's very ideal for backing water based paints. Never back mirror chrome of any brand with Bed liner. It WILL make it look dull.

-Be sure to peel the window mask as soon as the bed liner gets semi dry. Peeling it out cured is a super pain in the a$$.

-Always back all your work with a coat of black or faskrome...the bed liner is black...so it'll dull a white paint job if you don't back it with a median color. It needs that coat to "melt" to.


If I CANT BACK a paint job with the bed liner (except mirror chrome...I always use gloss top coat or a water based sealer only for mirror chromes) I spray a layer of createx sealer...let it dry and back it with rustoleum crystal clear.

Seeing how you're using a tamiya rattle can...give the crystal clear a try too. It's not as nitro resistant but if you're electric, that doesn't matter.