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Old 01-30-2015, 07:32 PM   #1
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Default Which lexan paint actually sticks?

Just a little irritated at the moment. Airbrushed two bodies with spaz stix and they flaked on the first night out. The chrome was the worst, just coming clean off in my chrome pinstripes, but the gloss black also "popped" in places where there were impacts, and the light blue takes impact damage too.

I wiped the bodies out with denatured alcohol before hand and used no adhesion promoters. I did not scuff. This is the prep I've done for years with rattle can pactra and never ever had anything come off without significant exposure to nitro fuel.

It seems completely stupid to me that pactra can make cans that it practically takes sanding to remove the paint, and spaz stix makes a lexan airbrush paint that flakes off if you look at it funny. Obviously scuffing the body will make for better results, but the paint should stick if its lexan paint, just with cleaning prep alone.

I've read a LOT of opinions on what to do prep wise to make stuff stick, but is there any decent paint that doesn't just SUCK at doing its primary job—sticking to stuff? Now that pactra is unavailable, is it duratrax time? I tried spaz stix and I'm not impressed past how well it sprayed. Faskolor was nice, but i prefer lacquer based as it just goes on better.

What paint doesn't suck now days?

Wayne
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Old 01-30-2015, 07:47 PM   #2
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Duratrax or lrp.just went threw same thing with spax stix even scuffed body still flakes.they sent me new paint saying it was bad and it did the exact same thing.
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Old 01-30-2015, 07:48 PM   #3
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Hmmmm.
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Old 01-30-2015, 11:02 PM   #4
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I started out with fascolor and used that for a long time until I wanted to "step up" my painting. I tried spaz stix for several bodies getting the quality better but still had issues keeping the paint from blowing off no matter how much prepping I did and how careful I was laying down the paint. So I tried the wicked brand of paint and so far so good, it's really a happy medium between the two. Easier to work with while staying where u put it, I would recommend giving it a try.
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Old 02-06-2015, 04:49 PM   #5
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create and fastcolorwork great..
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Old 02-06-2015, 05:12 PM   #6
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If Im not mistaken, everyone on here says the chrome never sticks to anything.

I did my first and only body(so far) with parma faskolor and it is holding up great. backed up with clear plastic fusion by krylon.

I bought a car on here from a guy that used createx i think and it's holding up great. (a lot of crashes and a fire, no flaking.

you probaby should try washing the body with dawn dish soap like recommended. that's all I did. also try light dusting the body first before you go with a heavy coat. this works on real cars as well. ( I paint real cars sometimes).
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Old 02-06-2015, 07:06 PM   #7
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I just did my first body with createx, fascolor, and wicked. We shall see--it's going on my kids slash to " look like dad's cars".
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Old 02-07-2015, 08:00 AM   #8
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In my opinion how long a paint job lasts has a lot to do with how you back the paint at the end of painting it. I usually spray the whole body at the end with white spray paint like krylon and then with clear paint also krylon. Or use a real thin coat of spray can bed liner. Available at any auto parts store. Hope this helps.
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Old 02-07-2015, 08:18 AM   #9
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I have been using Createx and Faskolor for years and never had any problem with then sticking. How are you prepping the body before painting it? How thick are the coats of paint you're outting down?
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Old 02-07-2015, 02:49 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cosmo View Post
I have been using Createx and Faskolor for years and never had any problem with then sticking. How are you prepping the body before painting it? How thick are the coats of paint you're outting down?
Haven't ran my createx body yet. I backed it with two thin coats of painters touch semigloss white. I always do thin coats. Pretty happy with how createx went down after I found my pressure and reduction.
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Old 02-07-2015, 03:40 PM   #11
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OK....... I have never had an issue with Auto Air and Faskolor. Ever.

I do pay attention when I was wash out the bodies with hot soapy water, never sanding or anything like that.

I used Spaztix chrome paint and it came off right away, even using an electronics blower to clean my body between runs took it all off. I sprayed another 2 layers on very lightly... It seems to stay on this way. I personally won't be using Spaztix because of this. Although I think the paint coming off was due to the coats being to thick, it still sucked having it come off. Auto Air and Faskolor are easier to clean up anyways.

Just my opinion.

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Old 02-12-2015, 08:25 AM   #12
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I've had this exact same thing happen. First time was on a touring car she'll using an airbrush. My buddy did the paint job and it turned out stunning. A little background, he owns an auto paint/body shop and also airbrushed motorcycles. Lots of time spent on it. Very first impact the paint started flaking.

I have an eclipse body about 15 years old that he did with water based paint. That body is almost ground down through the lexan from being flipped so many times yet not one piece of paint is flaking.

The second one was a proline bulldog rustler body. I did this one myself with rattle cans. My third body btw. I followed spaz stix directions to the t and even called them to confirm body prep and backing. It's a very simple paint job mostly blue with a couple black spots. I even let that body cure for a month before it's first outing. First small impact and paint was peeling.

To me paint peeling has nothing to do with the backing. The backing is there to protect from scratches underneath. Lexan specific paint should adhere to the body with no backing.

The fact is spaz stix paint is junk and has cost me lots of time and money on wasted paint jobs. For the life of me I don't understand how this company is in business. I guess it's all the fancy colors.
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Old 02-12-2015, 10:05 AM   #13
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Well at this point I have one faskolor/createx body painted and backed with white semi gloss rustoleum that was simply washed out with soap and wiped down with alcohol cloths and another I've started but scuffed and washed out with alcohol cloths before laying down mask. We'll see how it does compared to no scuffing I guess

Yeah my other spaz stix body started flaking too, so that's 2/2 flaking spaz stix bodies.

IMHO, the idea of "lexan specific paint" is misunderstood. There's no magic "lexan sticking additive" that they put in their paints, it's the properties of the paint that make it work well for lexan rc bodies, and those properties are that it sticks to plastics and resins well and is flexible. I sprayed some cheap $6 for 12 colors craft water based acrylic through my brush, reduced quite a lot, and it stuck to a test panel of lexan REALLY well, and it accepted backing amazingly. I had used that paint for other projects and new it stuck to stuff and was super flexible, so there you have it. The down side here, and why you pay for real air brush paint, is that it's got a ton of pigment vs binders and doesn't reduce near as well or spray near as nice—the feather edges looked like junk. The point is that sticking to lexan is not a black art.

I think the spaz stix stuff is just too hard and inflexible. I've tried scratching spaz stix off of panels and it is on there good... REAL good... but other paints, you can straight fold the lexan in half and it won't crack the paint, so... meh.
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Old 02-12-2015, 11:35 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2uzferunner03 View Post
I've had this exact same thing happen. First time was on a touring car she'll using an airbrush. My buddy did the paint job and it turned out stunning. A little background, he owns an auto paint/body shop and also airbrushed motorcycles. Lots of time spent on it. Very first impact the paint started flaking.

I have an eclipse body about 15 years old that he did with water based paint. That body is almost ground down through the lexan from being flipped so many times yet not one piece of paint is flaking.

The second one was a proline bulldog rustler body. I did this one myself with rattle cans. My third body btw. I followed spaz stix directions to the t and even called them to confirm body prep and backing. It's a very simple paint job mostly blue with a couple black spots. I even let that body cure for a month before it's first outing. First small impact and paint was peeling.

To me paint peeling has nothing to do with the backing. The backing is there to protect from scratches underneath. Lexan specific paint should adhere to the body with no backing.

The fact is spaz stix paint is junk and has cost me lots of time and money on wasted paint jobs. For the life of me I don't understand how this company is in business. I guess it's all the fancy colors.
What paint did he use? I've seen similar things happen using automotive paints.

Backing the paint with improper paint can also cause it to flake and peel. I see people mentioning rustoleum or similar paints used to back. I've never used them so I can't comment on that. All I've ever used is Pactra/Duratrax flourescent cover coat. I've never had any issues with that.
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Old 02-12-2015, 12:10 PM   #15
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Quote:
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What paint did he use? I've seen similar things happen using automotive paints.

Backing the paint with improper paint can also cause it to flake and peel. I see people mentioning rustoleum or similar paints used to back. I've never used them so I can't comment on that. All I've ever used is Pactra/Duratrax flourescent cover coat. I've never had any issues with that.
Auto paints need a flex agent before you even put them on a bumper or they'll be so hard that any impact will shatter the finish, so yeah, that wouldn't work so well on lexan

Backing with any paint is a game, but generally speaking, if you let the original stuff cure, you can back it with just about anything as long as you do your first coat or two light and let it flash don't soak the under coat with the solvents in the backer paint. There are clear exceptions to that, but generally speaking, it works. I.e., lacquer thinner takes off fresh lacquer and water based paint pretty easy, but even cured water based paint will stand up to lacquer thinner in reasonable quantities, such as those encountered when spraying reasonable backer coats.

There are, of course, some paints that have some pretty harsh stuff in them, but since rustoleum is designed for most surfaces, including plastics, it has to be pretty friendly solvent wise in general.

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