Badger Patriot 105
08-11-2014, 12:08 PM
#1
Badger Patriot 105
Hey,
I'm about to buy my first airbrush so I've been reading threads here and checking reviews and stuff. The local Craigslist has a Badger 105 real close to me and the Youtube reviews on the brush are really positive. But I hardly see it mentioned in this forum.
Is there something that makes it unsuitable for RC car body painting? With coupon I can get one for about $65 from Tower but I don't want to buy one if it's not good for the main thing I want to do with it.
If the Badger isn't a good choice I may just spend the $$ and get the Iwata Eclipse HP CS.
Thanks,
Chris
I'm about to buy my first airbrush so I've been reading threads here and checking reviews and stuff. The local Craigslist has a Badger 105 real close to me and the Youtube reviews on the brush are really positive. But I hardly see it mentioned in this forum.
Is there something that makes it unsuitable for RC car body painting? With coupon I can get one for about $65 from Tower but I don't want to buy one if it's not good for the main thing I want to do with it.
If the Badger isn't a good choice I may just spend the $$ and get the Iwata Eclipse HP CS.
Thanks,
Chris
08-11-2014, 01:24 PM
#2
105
I have a 105 and it works great. I have not really used any other airbrush as this is my first one so I cannot give you a comparison! Also had a tour of Badger Airbrush during Christmas.... Great people over there and a great company who stands behind the product they sell!
08-22-2014, 02:08 PM
#3
My buddy has a Pasche for fill work and an Iwata HP-CS and since I was also going to buy one for myself, we spoke and decided it would be a good idea to try something else that seemed almost too good to be true, so I pulled the trigger and bought it.
It's the Veda 180 kit and we compared it to the HP-CS and it sprays identically but it has the additional fine tune flow adjustment down below so you can really control things. I'm still learning so I suck pretty bad with shadowing, but I'm confident that when I switch from water base to Solvent base I will be bale to lay down drop shadows much easier and much more consistent. Solvent based paints are simply more consistent and when thinned properly, ANYTHING is possible. I thin my water based paint perfectly and it's still finicky at times and shadowing work is extremely difficult because sit will stop flowing and/or sputter a bit and then spit out too much paint sometimes. Just too frustrating to lay down shadows for me. Solvent paints just flow and flow and flow so I'm going to make the change and see what yields.
Here's the exact kit I bought from PEC global and a local painter told me it's made by the same people who make Iwata's $560 version (yes in china) and these are made using bodies that would not make the cut for Iwata, so rather than trash them, they clean them up a bit better and produce brushes. Mine has 2 burs in the window cut but it's cosmetic. The internals are flawless. My only gripe is that it should come with either a .2 or .3 tip AND a .5 instead of a .2 & .3 because there's literally no difference for this application. At leas that I've seen.
Anyhow, onto the brush: http://www.pecoglobal.com/Veda_Airbr...lk-package.htm
The Water trap could be better but it's not terrible either. I just bought a nicer one and run both in-line and have no issues. The hose and everything else are all very good.
Hope this helps.
It's the Veda 180 kit and we compared it to the HP-CS and it sprays identically but it has the additional fine tune flow adjustment down below so you can really control things. I'm still learning so I suck pretty bad with shadowing, but I'm confident that when I switch from water base to Solvent base I will be bale to lay down drop shadows much easier and much more consistent. Solvent based paints are simply more consistent and when thinned properly, ANYTHING is possible. I thin my water based paint perfectly and it's still finicky at times and shadowing work is extremely difficult because sit will stop flowing and/or sputter a bit and then spit out too much paint sometimes. Just too frustrating to lay down shadows for me. Solvent paints just flow and flow and flow so I'm going to make the change and see what yields.
Here's the exact kit I bought from PEC global and a local painter told me it's made by the same people who make Iwata's $560 version (yes in china) and these are made using bodies that would not make the cut for Iwata, so rather than trash them, they clean them up a bit better and produce brushes. Mine has 2 burs in the window cut but it's cosmetic. The internals are flawless. My only gripe is that it should come with either a .2 or .3 tip AND a .5 instead of a .2 & .3 because there's literally no difference for this application. At leas that I've seen.
Anyhow, onto the brush: http://www.pecoglobal.com/Veda_Airbr...lk-package.htm
The Water trap could be better but it's not terrible either. I just bought a nicer one and run both in-line and have no issues. The hose and everything else are all very good.
Hope this helps.
08-25-2014, 04:37 PM
#6
I actually own two Iwata airbrushes now. I ordered an Eclipse HP-CS a week or so ago then found an Eclipse BCS locally on Craigslist and ended up buying it for $50.
Just got the HP CS Wednesday and haven't done more than look at it since I was out of town from Thursday to yesterday.
I'm curious what water based paint you're using incubus. I've been asking questions on a dedicated airbrush forum and told them I ordered some Createx to practice with. I got so many replies telling me how crappy the Createx is that I called Chicago Airbrush and had them change my paint to Wicked before they shipped everything. I should be able to try it out on paper one evening this week and see how the Wicked compares to the bottle of Com Art that came with my new airbrush.
The airbrush people also suggested using the W500 reducer with the Wicked paint rather than the basic W100.
Just got the HP CS Wednesday and haven't done more than look at it since I was out of town from Thursday to yesterday.
I'm curious what water based paint you're using incubus. I've been asking questions on a dedicated airbrush forum and told them I ordered some Createx to practice with. I got so many replies telling me how crappy the Createx is that I called Chicago Airbrush and had them change my paint to Wicked before they shipped everything. I should be able to try it out on paper one evening this week and see how the Wicked compares to the bottle of Com Art that came with my new airbrush.
The airbrush people also suggested using the W500 reducer with the Wicked paint rather than the basic W100.
08-25-2014, 05:58 PM
#7
I use Faskolor exclusively because the colors are superb (at least the ones I like) and it flows well for the most part, but water color doesn't empregnate into the pecan the way solvents do, hence how easily they scratch off sometimes in certain areas. I do back my colors with solvent based paints or my krylon clear, but sometimes if scraped just hard enough it can still scratch.
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