Dadic 78

iTrader: (11)

I tried the search function, but came up with waaaay more info than I could read through... Sorry if this has been discussed before.

But my question is: Is there a specific method to prep a body before paint? I know I should wash it with dish soap, but is there any type of sanding, or adhesion promoters I should apply?

Reason I ask is, I just painted a body (single colour, no graphics) using Tamiya Color paint. Guy at my LHS says just to spray it on, and it'll adhere. Well, it did not adhere very well. Took the car out once, and it's all peeling off.

I cleaned the body thoroughly, so I'm curious what went wrong? Any suggestions?

Mike E.

iTrader: (17)

***sigh*** OK there's really not a short way to put this so here it goes. First wash the body inside and out with warm soapy water and a clean sponge, wash cloth or the like. NOT one that's used to clean the mac and cheese out of the pot. Dry off with a clean paper towel or cloth. I went down to Wal-Mart and bought some cloth diapers. Very soft and lint free. After drying go back with a clean rag and alcohol and wipe down the body on the inside again. I pay special attention to the windows so that the window masks stick well. I've found that this is especially critical when painting the Proline bodies. Their window masks SUCK!!! They need all the help they can get. Now comes the part of the body prep that will get the critics chiming in on both sides so you decide for yourself on this next step. Scuff the body with a gray ScotchBrite pad UNLESS your going to be using chrome. If you're going to be using chrome DO NOT scuff the body. This step will give the paint, which ever base you decide to use, something to "hold on to". If you going to be using the water base paints such as Faskolor or Createx usually you're ok without scuffing. Lacquer base paints such as Spaz Stix can use a little extra help with adhesion so I like to scuff mine. There is also a product sold by Spaz Stix called Surface Pre-Prep that's an adhesion promoter. Also if you want to eliminate "ghost farts" then I would suggest using Surface Prep by RCS. It eliminates the static that builds up on the body when removing your masking material. I don't have an issue using Pactra paints since you have to reduce them. (The little 2/3 oz. bottles that is) The lacquer thinner that I use to thin them also helps to adhere them to the body.

Well I think I covered everything. If not, ask away.

Good luck

Dadic 78

iTrader: (11)

Ah, so I should scuff it before paint... I figured I should, but the guy at my LHS ASSURED me that I did not need to. UGH...

Any suggestions for getting all this paint off now? I'm thinking taking an air-blower to it will likely flake it all off, eh?

chris moore

iTrader: (96)

I have'nt tried it on that brand but rubbing alcohol works very well on many other brands, takes some time but wont fog the lexan like more aggressive chemicals.

pettyeagles

iTrader: (86)

Sounds like you may have used Tamiya paint for hard bodies.

F Bomb Graphix

iTrader: (3)

You can try flaking the rest of it off but I'm sure that there will be a lot of little places where the paint adhered perfectly and won't want to come off. That leaves good old brake fluid and some elbow grease and a bunch of time. Personally, I would go back to the hobby store and show the guy that said the paint would work and ask him to give you a new body. My LHS would do that. It might not get you anywhere but you can try. In that case, it may save you some headache to just get another body. Scuff the new one up with either scotch brite pads or red 3m automotive scuff pads. I use both and my paint will rub off from chassis contact or tire rub after a long while but it NEVER flakes off. That goes for both water based and lacquer. Good luck in this one. I didn't scuff my first body years ago and had the same issue. I didn't know, at the time how important scuffing was for adhesion.