Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

I would figure it would do this. Try windex again....it wont have the mixing and seperating problems or fumes of the alcohol. Im amazed anyone is trying alcohol with a paint. Alcohol kinda has a weird film to it, as well doesnt seem to mix well with water.

HalfEvilGrafix

I have been using the alchohol to thin the Fascolor paints. It works GREAT!! No more fighting the paint, it fades so much more smoothly. Very smooth!

The florescents do not need it but the solid colors do. ( white, black, all the fas-colorhere-, pearls, and fascents.

The only thing is to be sure to shake the bottle every 2-3 minutes though, just in case anything is settling.

Thanks For the Leg Up!!

kfa

Has anyone tried Createx Reducer for thinning ?

//Kaare

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

All the mixing you guys talk about , is not needed with the windex. Alcohol will seperate things, thats why you have to keep shaking it. With windex you spray it with the mist and it basically mixes it self.

Much easier to work with IMO.

dpalXRC

Actually I use two things that work great for backing the Faskolor paints.

1. I use a clear Acrylic spray found at some autoparts and hardware stores. You can also find it at most art stores. Krylon's crystal clear acrylic spray (Americana acrylic spray sealer is another brand) works really good and doesn't affect your colors. Especially if your like me and try not to lay down thick layers. This is ideal for bodies with light colors.

2. For bodies that have darker colors and/or you want a more durable finish, you can use Dupli-Color Truck bed coating. The downside to this is that it's black and will affect your bodies color if the colors aren't put on thick enough. (of course you don't want really thick paint) It will especially affect light colors. This works really good for spraying the bed area on off-road truck bodies too. Just spray it on the outside for a textured finish. (of course mask off the area you don't want this spray on).

hirme

iTrader: (1)

Hi all, this is a kinda old thread but full of info...

I'd like to know something mainly for nitro purpose.

I just painted a white and blue body for my buggy with createx paint. is it ok to cover all the back of it with let say Krylon fusion white can to get something plain for the inside and then back it with the crystal clear coat for fuel protection? or will the paint crack or something like that??? don't want to ruin it

It's my second body..and got a lot of tips from here
Thanks guys!

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Not sure about those paints you mentioned. But the stuff dpal spoke about will work. I even just saw a magazine talk about the truck bed coating. Ill have to try that.

As for being 100% you can get pactra spray can silver white or black...all of those I believe are nitro fuel proof.

hirme

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the fast answer!!!
the problem is that I don't have access to pactra can here...so I hope the krylon will work...if someone could confirm it, it would make my day..or my night (it's 2:21am here )

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Just tried a search for krylon...well it doesnt seem it will work.

http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=22325

Hope you have tried it yet , the only thing that would seem to work is the truck bed coating and krylon crystal clear coat. I found a bunch of other good reads though when searching for krylon , there seems to be quite a number of things tha work for backing.

aus jd 2703

iTrader: (5)

ok is krylon clear just a clear coat?
they dont sell in australia so could i use a clear enamel? if not what am i looking for?
what ratio should i use windex? is it 3 parts paint 1 part windex or what i havnt seen how much to use?
finally is there a difference between createx and auto air thats noticeable when painting on lexan??
cheers all

dpalXRC

No you don't want to use enamel paints. They'll just crack. What you could do is go to an art store and tell them you want an acrylic clear coat. They use it for preserving charcoal drawings and such. You could buy it in matte or gloss finishes.

As for the windex, I usually just put a few drops in my paint cup on my airbrush. I mix it as I use it so if I need it thicker it's ready. If I need it thinner, I can just add more windex. Somebody eles might have a better answer for you on that one. Anyone?

I think Auto Air might spray a little smoother than the createx. Also Auto Air might atomize (a finer mist) better than createx.

darchard123

iTrader: (5)

How do,

I did not read the whole page as its to much!!!!

but i would like to ask the question has anyone here gone to the Parma web site?
if you do it explains how to use fascolor!!! it tells you the psi etc, and also if you read the web site it advise the paint should not be thined!!!

Maxxthrasher

Yes well, Parma just got their new website up and running just weeks ago and that information wasn't there prior. If you had bothered to read the thread you would have know this thread started back in Feb. of 2005!!

But thanks for pointing out the new info and Parma's new site up and running!
Lot's of great products and info.

GeneralG

iTrader: (4)

I just found out about using a cleaner called "Fantastik" to thin the paints. Just picked up some and will be giving it a try later this week. Found this info on www.airbrush.com. Going to mix 50/50 Fantistik with water to dilute the paint.

Otherwise I have just been using windex to dilute the paint, but the paint still was always drying on the needle tip, as where the Fantastik and water mix are not suppose to dry on the needle tip.