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Old 09-13-2017, 05:37 AM   #2101
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Do not use spaztix paint!!! This is the worst paint for lexan. It will not stick no matter what you do. It is a known problem with it hence the reason you dont hear any of the big name painters using it. I've been painting for over 25+ yrs. It will not stick. After few hits it peels off in sheets no matter what you do!! I scuff all my bodies with gray 3m scotch bright. Red is too coarse. Wash with dawn dish soap. All I use is auto air, wicked, and createx. It is the exact same stuff as faskolor!!!. You actually use any acrylic craft paint. It will just need thinned. Regular Windex is one of the best things to use to thin it. It will stick and you will have no issues.
To each his own dude! Ive had zero issues with SpazStix. Sticks just fine for me. Guess I just have it figured out. Shot many a nitro bodies, on road and off road bodies with it and none of it peels.

As far as Jconcepts bodies go never had an issue unless it was my fault for not cleaning it properly.

We all have our preferences on paint and bodies. Find what paint works best for you and go with it. Just remember to take your time and use lighter coats.

Almost forgot, I use the space heater for the mask. Same thing applies as with the paint. Heavy coats will take longer to dry. I let mine sit over night once I have the last coat baked on. If you cut it right away it's still fairly soft and can seal your cut lines. Learned that the hard way lol. I'm sure someone else will come in and tell me I'm wrong. I'm just telling you from experience so take it for what's it's worth.

Last edited by Mike E.; 09-13-2017 at 06:10 AM.
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Old 09-14-2017, 01:08 PM   #2102
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To each his own dude! Ive had zero issues with SpazStix. Sticks just fine for me. Guess I just have it figured out. Shot many a nitro bodies, on road and off road bodies with it and none of it peels.

As far as Jconcepts bodies go never had an issue unless it was my fault for not cleaning it properly.

We all have our preferences on paint and bodies. Find what paint works best for you and go with it. Just remember to take your time and use lighter coats.

Almost forgot, I use the space heater for the mask. Same thing applies as with the paint. Heavy coats will take longer to dry. I let mine sit over night once I have the last coat baked on. If you cut it right away it's still fairly soft and can seal your cut lines. Learned that the hard way lol. I'm sure someone else will come in and tell me I'm wrong. I'm just telling you from experience so take it for what's it's worth.

I agree. To each there own. I appreciate all the feedback Mike. I'm going to try a few things differently and see how that goes.
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Old 09-14-2017, 03:25 PM   #2103
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I agree. To each there own. I appreciate all the feedback Mike. I'm going to try a few things differently and see how that goes.
Let me know how things turn out for you. I don't know where you're at in Utah but I'm in the SLC if you need anything.
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Old 09-30-2017, 02:03 PM   #2104
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Best paints for shadows...I have been struggling lately with being consistent. I am using Faskolor and Createx paints. I am not opposed to trying different paints. Looking for suggestions on how you guys spray shadow lines and keep them tight and consistent.

This is a body that I did for myself and was really disappointed with.

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Old 09-30-2017, 02:09 PM   #2105
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Best paints for shadows...I have been struggling lately with being consistent. I am using Faskolor and Createx paints. I am not opposed to trying different paints. Looking for suggestions on how you guys spray shadow lines and keep them tight and consistent.

This is a body that I did for myself and was really disappointed with.

SpazStix makes a shadow/window tint. It is lacquer base though.
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Old 09-30-2017, 02:14 PM   #2106
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Something else you can do is darken your base color by adding a couple of drops of black. Be careful with that as the black can quickly overpower the lighter colors. Remember shadows are just a darker version of your base color.
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Old 10-02-2017, 10:25 AM   #2107
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Pearl colors will hide a lot of the hazing issue you are having. Try mixing 2/3 key lime and 1/3 neon green. Also spray a very light coat of createx clear base before doing your shadows/out lines. When the surfaces is not so shiny the hazing seems to not stick to it so much. I am not saying you won't get hazing, but a lot of the weird hazing patterns will go away. I think it might have something to do with static electricity, but I have now way to prove this.
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Old 10-03-2017, 03:30 AM   #2108
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The ole "Ghost Farts" or Hazing that you experience is from static buildup when you peel a layer of mask, the easy way around it is to have an old shitter airbrush setup with rubbing alcohol/isopropyl alcohol in it, once you peel a layer of mask mist it with the alcohol, it vaps off straight away and takes the static charge with it, I also currently use good ole methylated spirits currently with the same success as Iso is tricky to get in my country.
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Old 10-03-2017, 06:53 AM   #2109
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Thanks for the tips everyone. Going to try this same design on another body this week.
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Old 10-07-2017, 04:23 PM   #2110
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I've been looking at getting a nice metallic red color. Something like this.

I've also thought about moving from spray cans to airbrushing... at least if I can manage to unclog my damned airbrush (it always gets clogged in 0,0001 seconds when I try to paint Warhammer 40k miniatures no matter how well I thin my paints).

To these effects I was looking at the Faskolor range, but it's hard to find examples of each of the colors. There's metallic, translucent, pearlescent, fluorescent red, plus basic red etc etc. The metallic one looks a bit "cold" in tone on their color chart, not a deep warm color like on the link. The metallic red spray I used on two bodies so far also looked more like orange than red, so it'd be nice to get it right this time.

Generally my bodies tend to be a mix of black and red for offroad, with onroad cars currently being one black (Porsche, with red accent stickers) and one red (Mini Cooper). So it'd help keeping the number of paints down if the red could be backed with black without needing a silver or such color.
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Old 10-09-2017, 08:19 AM   #2111
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There is a pretty good video (I could not find the link) on YouTube where Ken Schlotfeldt of Badger air brush talks about pigments, thinning and tip sizes. If you are having problems with your tip clogging it could be you are using to fine of a tip and needle. How fine the pigment is ground in the paint also affects how well the paint the flows. Ken explains it pretty decently. You can mix different colors of Faskolor together to get what ever color you want. Test it out on some scrap lexan and use other colors to adjust the tone of the color. There is nothing that says you have to use the paint as it comes out of the bottle. I mix colors all of the time. I don't think you are going to be able to back the red with black. I have not tried this, but experience would tell me it will make the red to dark. Faskolor cleans up easy. I use a small 3 gallon bucket of water to back flush the my air brush between colors. You can change from color to color pretty fast using Faskolor/Createx paint.
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Old 10-10-2017, 10:42 AM   #2112
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Well, I want the red to be on the darker side rather than bright. How much it gets darkened is of course primarily dependant on how many layers there is of the red itself. But as for mixing, the problem is consistency between batches, primarily. Plus having to buy more different color paints, which I'd really want to keep down to a minimum. For the airbrush tips the problem is that a new tip would cost basically as much as the entire airbrush (it's a cheap but quite good airbrush feature/quality-wise). And for the miniatures I paint with it, bigger would be too big. For the cars I guess it could be bigger.
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Old 10-23-2017, 02:02 PM   #2113
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hi,
i had a question about designs and keep it efficient.
i had a job to do (2nd body ever done) and he want to get more of them.
now i draw and cut but it's very detailed and timeconsuming .
is it possible to plot it?
i tried plotting on vinyl but when i tried to get it on the body it's a mess.

and what about headlights, how to begin painting head and tail lights?

thx

Painter's Chat-img_1868.jpg
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Old 10-24-2017, 09:32 PM   #2114
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Can anyone point me in the right direction on how to get the honeycomb pattern? Thanks in advance!
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Old 10-26-2017, 12:42 PM   #2115
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Just do a search for Airbrush stencil on amazon and you should find one. Set it down on the body, shoot some paint and stay away from the edges.
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