What kind of masking tape?

Old 02-07-2007, 11:14 AM
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Default What kind of masking tape?

Hello everybody!

I have some questions about masking tape and liquid mask...

what is the best way to masking a body?

Right know i use Scootch 3M masking tape to do all the masking on my bodies I painting and I think it is a little bit tricky to mask with this tape.

Is this way the best?

I read in another thread that many painters applicate the masking tape, then cut the design with a knife...is it a good way?

Give me some tip how you guys do!

it would be nice if you post some picture on your paintworks, during the painting i mean

regards! Charles
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Old 02-07-2007, 11:29 AM
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Cutting after covering the entire inside of the body with masking material (tape or LM) is pretty much the only way to easily paint a complex design. Blue masking tape is what you want, though many of us prefer Dively's masking fluid.
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Old 02-07-2007, 02:44 PM
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Ya, I finally joined the liquid masking age... Never going back to tape. But, if you need to use tape.. 3M Makes this thin blue tape called Fine Line tape. You can get it at an autobody supply shop. Just ask for blue fine line tape.
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Old 02-08-2007, 07:15 AM
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I'm still one of the old schooler's that still uses masking tape for all of my bodies. I tried liquid mask on a couple bodies and was not happy with the results, mainly b/c I brushed it on and didn't spray it. But that's another topic. I go to Home Depot and buy the contractors package of 1" 3M masking tape (tan colored). I found the blue stuff didn't stick as well in tight spaces and isn't very easy to see your design on the outside of the body so I don't use it. I second the notion of going to a auto body paint supply store and getting the blue fine line tape. I wish it came in 1/16" wide, but the 1/8" stuff works great. It's not a paper tape, but vinyl so it can be stretched and pulled to conform with tight curves and irregular contours. I mainly use it for flame outlines and such. Covering the entire body and then cutting it out is the way to go no matter what you use.

As far as the best way to go, it's all personnal prefernce. If I had a larger tip on my airbrush, or a small detail gun for a full size car I would spray on liquid mask. But the tape works good for me b/c I can mask off an entire body in a couple minutes while watching tv and not have to break out any extra epuipment in doing so.
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Old 02-08-2007, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Bad-Andy
I'm still one of the old schooler's that still uses masking tape for all of my bodies. I tried liquid mask on a couple bodies and was not happy with the results, mainly b/c I brushed it on and didn't spray it.
Personally, I've never sprayed LM and have no intention to ever try that because of the annoyance of thinning and cleaning...

What happened that it didn't work for you? As long as I've gotten the coats thick enough, I've never had a problem. I just use a foam brush, spread it one, let it dry and then repeat three times.
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Old 02-08-2007, 10:13 AM
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yeah, but brush/dry/brush/dry/brush/dry would take FOREVER!
When I used to use the stuff, it'd take atleast 2hrs in the direct sun to dry it.
Inside, it would always stay fresh and liquidy.

I usually have customers that want their bodies ASAP. Tape takes very little time to apply. Sure, it might leak on a corner, but if you do it right, it usually doesnt.

And I have to agree with the blue tape, it doesnt stick too well. I'd rather have to struggle a little to take off the tape than have it leak paint.
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Old 02-08-2007, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Aluma
yeah, but brush/dry/brush/dry/brush/dry would take FOREVER!
When I used to use the stuff, it'd take atleast 2hrs in the direct sun to dry it.
Inside, it would always stay fresh and liquidy.

I usually have customers that want their bodies ASAP. Tape takes very little time to apply. Sure, it might leak on a corner, but if you do it right, it usually doesnt.

And I have to agree with the blue tape, it doesnt stick too well. I'd rather have to struggle a little to take off the tape than have it leak paint.

I absolutely agree, LM definately adds time. I point potential customers to other painters if they don't give me enough lead time (or charge an expedite fee). I'm pretty selective about who I paint for. And I get home when it's dark (at least during the winter months) and I no longer have a work room or garage to paint in, I have to wait for the weekend to throw paint. So if I put on the LM, and then set it in front of the wall heater, I can get 3 good coats done in time.

But then, i only have a couple regular customers and then a random one now and again, and honestly I have no desire to work the volume seen by Roly, ShopUFO, WedJim or Kropy. Don't have the space either.
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Old 02-09-2007, 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Kcdzim
What happened that it didn't work for you? As long as I've gotten the coats thick enough, I've never had a problem. I just use a foam brush, spread it one, let it dry and then repeat three times.
The problem I was having is the brush marks that had thicker lines of LM. When I went over it with the X-Acto it tended to follow the grain of the brush mark. I'm assuming that wouldn't be a problem shooting it out of a gun since it would all be a uniform coat. All in all I'm happy with the tape, besides guys have been painting full size cars with masking tape and paper for how many years now?
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Old 02-09-2007, 07:23 AM
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This might be a redneck answer, but I've used a lot of different things over the years. My favorite way to do difficult curves and designs is electrical tape. I use a razor(be careful!!) to split the entire roll down the center so that it's half the width. You don't have to go very deep at one time. You can work off both sides too(meaning don't try to cut the whole roll in half). Use the outside part of the tape so you get a super clean edge on your paint. After I make my initial line I just use masking tape and newspaper to block the rest of the body. I also use a hairdryer to speed the drying process. I'll admit I don't own an airbrush, but I love the old school look you get with 2-3 colors and a fancy tape design.
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Old 02-09-2007, 07:59 AM
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hi i havent post anything for a while. well i use 3M masking tape (green) i like it alot. i have 3 different sizes. again i mostly do 1/10th sedans and 1/8th lola bodies. they are flat not like the buggy bodies. i havent tried liquid mask yet. maybe one day.
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Old 02-09-2007, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Bad-Andy
The problem I was having is the brush marks that had thicker lines of LM. When I went over it with the X-Acto it tended to follow the grain of the brush mark. I'm assuming that wouldn't be a problem shooting it out of a gun since it would all be a uniform coat. All in all I'm happy with the tape, besides guys have been painting full size cars with masking tape and paper for how many years now?

Yeah, I don't use a bristle brush. I "brush" it on with a foam brush, then blot it after it's covered to stiple the masking and removed directional ridges. If you do brush it on, you can apply each coat in a different direction to minimize ridges. However, if you need the absolute straight line with no bobble, I still use the edge of a bit of masking tape for some things. If I'm using liquid mask, generally my designs intentionally don't have perfectly straight lines. The body I'm finishing this weekend used masking tape, pinstriping tape, vinyl, and liquid masking.
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Old 02-09-2007, 11:59 AM
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Why are you doing L/M the hard way? I just fill the body w/ the liquid mask. Make sure you poor it in slow so you can get everything covered. The just stand the bod on the top of the bottle and let it drain for an hour. Then I just set it in the sink and let it dry. Easy, and its very even. Been doing it that way for years.
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Old 02-10-2007, 03:40 PM
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Can someone who gets good results with liquid mask please post an outline of how to get good results with it? I've tried the LM and had other issues with it, like if I tried to cut and peel a thin line (1/16" to 1/8") it would pull out from under the paint, and it also left a jagged edge. I was using pactra lacquer based paint, both from a can and and airbrush. I had brushed on at least three coats of LM, (well between three and five, and yes it takes too damn long to dry!) and I was using the Hobbico stuff. What did I do wrong? was it the brand? too thick? too thin? too much paint? If anyone has any tips on using it I would really appreciate it, I'm getting tired of all the time and work it takes to mask out a very elaborate scheme with fine line and blue masking tape. I know it's easier and faster to use LM but like I said, I want better results than the 2 bodies I tried with it. Any help here will be very appreciated!
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Old 02-10-2007, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Eric Tomczyk
Can someone who gets good results with liquid mask please post an outline of how to get good results with it? I've tried the LM and had other issues with it, like if I tried to cut and peel a thin line (1/16" to 1/8") it would pull out from under the paint, and it also left a jagged edge. I was using pactra lacquer based paint, both from a can and and airbrush. I had brushed on at least three coats of LM, (well between three and five, and yes it takes too damn long to dry!) and I was using the Hobbico stuff. What did I do wrong? was it the brand? too thick? too thin? too much paint? If anyone has any tips on using it I would really appreciate it, I'm getting tired of all the time and work it takes to mask out a very elaborate scheme with fine line and blue masking tape. I know it's easier and faster to use LM but like I said, I want better results than the 2 bodies I tried with it. Any help here will be very appreciated!

I can't answer for certain on a couple of these, but I have suspicions...

In my experience (only with Dively's brand which I believe is commonly believed to be best, or at least better than most) lacquer paints react a little with it and I've had cut lines rebond when using a high lacquer content spray can (candy red). I had to recut lines and then score a painted edge to make sure it didn't pull any paint up. For that reason alone I try not to use lacquer paints unless they're the final colors, just so I dont have any liquid masking issues to deal with

I've also had it pull out from under the paint leaving a standing seam of extra paint, and when that happens I usually just scrub the body with paper towels to tear off the paint that sticks up.

You can treat masking tape like liquid mask, you know, and just cover the body in tape, then cut the design. JGoPaints and Paintin' Roly both use masking tape in that fashion. It much faster to mask a body that way, and as long as you're careful you won't have any more risk of bleeds than a LM body.
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Old 02-10-2007, 10:08 PM
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It was a while back, but I recall that I didn't even precut the design, I was cutting and peeling after each color. I think one of the colors I was having trouble with was pactra translucent blue, so what you're saying makes sense. I think I'll try the whole body masking tape method this time and see how it goes. My concern with that isn't bleeds underneath, I'm worried I'll cut too deep and score the lexan, then it will come apart later during use (I'm painting 1/10th scale buggy bodies, mine will last me up to two years). I guess I'll have to practice my x-acto skills. Thanks for your time on this.
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