HK500Pilot

iTrader: (4)

Hello everyone, looking for advice on using water based Createx and fuel proofing. Is it possible to spray your body then back it with white Tamiya polycarbonate rattle can in order to fuel proof the entire job?

Thank you in advance for any information that can be sent my way,

estill

iTrader: (13)

It's been many years since I've needed to fuel proof paint so test this on some scraps first. I always used the cheapest krylon rattle can I could find. The first coat was with the can held away from the body, and I let it kind of dust the paint. Second coat was a little heavier, and the third was just enough to completly coat the it.

The phrasing I was taught, was dust coat, light coat, and then just enough to change the color, if that helps.

TurnNBurn

When I first started using Createx paints (back around 1999), I would back it with a coat of Pactra paint. I’ve just come back to the hobby in the last year and a half, and painted a body with the only can of Pactra White I was able to get before all outlets sold out. Now that Pactra is not around anymore, I suppose I’ll have to use Tamiya PS myself. As long as it’s a lacquer based paint, it should protect it. I also noticed that Traxxas also recently started their own line of paints. If those are lacquer based as well, they should work too.

Good call on the White, BTW. I’ve always used White or Black myself. I tried Silver once, and dirt would just stick to it! White and Black repelled the most dirt and tire dust (on on-road bodies).

119Lab

Be careful with the lacquer paint on top of the createx, if the createx is not fully cured I've had it 'react' and eat through, or crinkle finish it. I'd wait 24-48hrs and test on a coke bottle or egg carton. I've had luck with duplicolor clear enamel which is what I currently use, same rules apply.

TurnNBurn

Oops, good point - yes, the paint should be cured before applying the final coat. Personally, I don’t like using clear coat because it’s hard to see the coverage… at least in my case. My eyes aren’t what they used to be, lol.

HK500Pilot

iTrader: (4)

Thank you for all the replies I really appreciate the help. I guess I’ll just shoot it with a fuel proof paint right from the beginning. It’s just Createx has some great colors out there. I guess I’ll leave that for my electric cars.

The price of bodies, paint, and time all add up to really not wanting to screw up a body and throw it in the trash.....

Ackchyually

iTrader: (7)

What fuel-proof paint are you using?

I recall seeing some product, a sort of "backing" fuel-proof coating, but I don't recall the name. I do recall the price being considerably expensive.

I've had moderate success with two coats of Rust-Oleum white satin, because that's all I had around, but areas that experienced long-term exposure to nitro fuel coupled with agitation (i.e., rubbing of a fuel line on the body) during races caused some areas to become a gooey mess. However, initial (static) tests dictated otherwise, because I could let the fuel sit on the Rust-Oleum, and it caused no damage before it evaporated off. It didn't soak in. It didn't cause cracking or peeling either. First tests were with Byrons fuel.

I don't know if brand of fuel has anything to do with it, but the fuel used in the races that caused the gooey mess was TNR. I don't recall such a problem of when I ran Byrons. TNR seems really oily too. Anyway, the next body I paint I will go with gloss white (or black, depending on the colors used for the scheme) as I would hypothesis that gloss may be more slick and allow the fuel to not hold to the surface as long. The only other recommendation I can make to others, and myself, is to be as clean-as-you-can with the fuel--tough to do during those quick pit stops!--and keep all hoses in the clear from rubbing on the body--again, tough to do especially around the fuel tank. EDIT: Plus Shoe Goo in areas prone to agitation AND fuel. Nothing cuts through Shoe Goo, but it's heavy and if applied to many areas, then it does add the grams! Totally worth the extra weight, IMHO!

wely324

iTrader: (4)

I’ve been using flex seal to protect the paint and add some durability to the body itself.

LOW ET

iTrader: (109)

rustoleum crystal clear

TurnNBurn

That stuff is THICK - Do you do anything in particular to minimize how much of a coat you put on the body?

wely324

iTrader: (4)

I got the idea from a YouTube racer. It’s more for reinforcing the body, protecting the paint is a bonus. I do 2 thin coats, and I don’t worry about missing any spots on the first coat otherwise you’ll spray too much trying to fill in the areas it doesn’t fill in at first.

I had a body that had drywall tape reinforcement and it was cracking real bad. The flex seal saved it and I still use the body for practice.

plus it gives you the tinted window look 😂

wely324

iTrader: (4)

I weighed the body and compared to an indentical body that doesn’t have the flex seal. The flex seal protected body was actually lighter! It was only by a few grams so about the same.

Core Creations

iTrader: (107)

I've used Createx Gloss Top Coat #5604 for over 20 years as a sealer and have never had a single paint failure with fuel. It also is super easy clean up.

TeamCarnage

iTrader: (30)

I've been using Rust Oleum 2X in white. I spray after drying my last coat of any of the water-based paints with a heat gun. Works great with zero problems. The flex seal sounds inteesting. I might try it in stress areas only after the 2X.

crydaddy

iTrader: (7)

I use Rust-Oleum matte clear after final createx gray color backing. Works great.