Paint question


Old 03-14-2018, 07:28 AM
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Default Paint question

Hey Guys,

So I've just painted my first hard shell ABS body in a long time -

I sanded the body with 600 and 1500 sandpaper, washed, rinsed, and then wiped down with alcohol and lint free towels, then blasted with air just to make sure no dust was on it.

I primed with the tamiya light primer 2 coats.

I then painted 2 coats of base color, 24 hours apart.

The paint in some areas looks semi glossy and some areas glossy you can def feel the diff on the surface.

What did I most likely screw up?

Should I try to fix it or start with a new body?

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Old 03-14-2018, 08:32 AM
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Get some brake fluid (not brake cleaner) and it will eat the paint right off without hurting the plastic. When I paint abs bodies I just scuff them with a gray scuff pad and then wash the body with Dawn dish soap, once it's dry I wipe it with a tack rag and hit it with a light coat of plastic adhesion promoter and then spray the base color on. Once you're satisfied that the color has coverage and looks uniform then it's time for clear. 1600 grit isn't enough scratch to paint over, If you feel the need to wetsand it then I would go with a minimum of 800 grit. What base and clear are you using?

If I had to take a wild guess without any further information I would say that the basecoat started to soak into the primer which would explain the difference in texture and shine. If you are using products from an aerosol can that might also explain your issues. Aerosol base and clear both have a certain amount of texture to them and trying to get them to go on as smooth as paint from a gun is almost impossible, it's just the nature of the beast. Aerosol clear is also very prone to die back which would also cause some areas to be shinier than others.

Last edited by olds45512; 03-14-2018 at 08:45 AM.
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Old 03-22-2018, 11:09 AM
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I'm going thru my 2nd paint job this time -

I sanded the paint with 600, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000, then rinsed, dried, wiped with lint free cloth and alcohol, then primed again. After this primer job - I took 3000 grit foam backed sandpaper and LIGHTLY wetsanded the spots that had a very fine texture left behind - To make the surface as butter smooth as possible for paint.

I'm working on getting a paint stand so I can properly paint it at 90 degrees.
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Old 03-22-2018, 10:17 PM
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Personally, I wouldn't go any finer than 600 wet before painting. You are looking for a good surface for a mechanical bond of the paint. The fine sand papers are for "color sanding" after final paint and cure. Always wet sand and always be careful around sharp edges. I would go 1000 / 1500 / 2000, then polish it up with a fine buffing compound.

I would think there are many tutorials out there as people have been painting plastic model cars for decades.
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Old 03-25-2018, 06:25 PM
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24 hours between topcoats is WAY too long to wait. You just want the paint to "flash" before your next coat. Start with a nice tack coat followed by at least two more wetter coats. Depending on the color you may need more topcoats for full coverage.
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Old 03-27-2018, 01:03 PM
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Sounds to me that using all those sand papers is overkill. After screwing up a couple of bodies, I just washed the body real good with coarse dish sponge and dish washer, air dried it, put necessary stickers and designs, put 3 coats of 5020 Createx and started painting followed by automotive clear coat. It's ultra light weight body and flexes like crazy. The paint is holding up just perfect. Some of the spray cans don't seem to mix well with airbrush paints and I decided not to use it anymore after screwing up the bodies.
And I used hair dryer between paints as I didn't want to waste time waiting in between and that shortened the waiting time to almost none.

Last edited by snuvet75; 03-27-2018 at 01:34 PM.
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