5ive setup tips.
 

5ive setup tips.

Let’s get a conversation going to find out what works. For new person getting in the hobby and for the expert there is always new things to learn. So tell us what did you try? Did you find something good or was it totally the wrong thing to do? Both are valid points for us to learn and there is no shame.

So let’s talk about suspension, transmission and engine. Have you got tips to set the carburation or you found that some other model works better for the engine and if you have changed the engine no problem as most have done that? What fluids do you use on your differentials and shocks? Or you tried some but it didn’t work. Ride height? Steering angles front and back? Did you solve a problem and modified something? Exhaust what works and what not? Did you find a good way for silencing? What tyres do you use and what have you found is a good insert? Any tricks to prevent ballooning? Etc.

Please be free to add some pictures to make it easier to understand as this can get technical.

Ask questions and I’m sure there is someone with the answer.

Often there are many ways to do the same thing and all are good and debatable. I’m looking forward trying some and to compare. That is the point of the hobby trying to improve.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRdrvG7xGO8

For the tyre ballooning I found this good video but I'm not sure about the tape used. I have seen some very strong fibrous and light tapes that are also durable. What have you used and did it work?

Most people use Ducttape or Gorillatape to tape the tires.
If the tire thread allows it, you can also make 3 rings around the tire with strong fishing line.
That weighs much less then tape.

That fishing line trick I can't picture. Do you mean round the outside? I have never heard about this. How does this work compared to taping?

Also I can see you are using Hitec 7950. I'm little confused about the torque on the se servos. Yours is 486 oz/in at 7.4 volts (~14kg) and I have also seen claims of 50kg servos used on the 1/5 scale. That is just too much difference so I'm sure there is a point that I'm missing.

Can you please explain some of the issues about servos and how do you actually measure them against each other?

It just seems that everyone is doing the double servo for the steering.

Of course anyone can jump in and help.

Here is a link one more info for the fishing line:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/monster-...l#post14366068

The 7950 has 33kg of torque, according to Hitec and this tool:

http://www.convertunits.com/from/oz-in/to/kg-cm

But I use it in my 1:8 scale Losi LST XXL, not in a 5ive, I do not have a 5th scale unfortunalty.
I think you want to use a 5th scale servo because the tooth on the gears are bigger, and thus it is more durable?
I have seen some people use some good standard size servo's in 5th scale though, but that was in a Baja of FG, so 2wd.

That is very interesting. I would have never thought about using fishing line. I'm sure it works too but you need to have the right tyres for doing that trick. Not sure what is better taping or fishing line but I might have a go and try that. No harm in it that is if I have the right tyres.

I was also looking for the 1/8 scale first but then I thought that where am I going to be driving the most and it is beach on soft sand. So I think the 1/5 might be better and when I had a look into the price running a petrol and electric and 1/5 scale there was not much difference. With petrol as long as the truck works I can just fill it up and keep going but with electric you are ruled how many batteries you have. Electric is good and gives you more places to run the vehicle and that has to be a plus when with petrol you always need to think others because they are noisy.

Yeah, I really want a gas car again, I love the sound they make.
They are expensive though.

Nothing is cheap in RC world. I saw a video in youtube that sort of put all the cost of different cars from nitro, gas and electric together and the gas car was little bit more expensive than the rest but cheapest to run making it at the end the most economical. Nitro has expensive fuel and short lifespan on their engines and running gear and electric car has very expensive batteries to buy and in general the maintenance was expensive. Gas car once you get it broken in proper it just keeps on running and gas is cheap.

I started looking at the ARRMA 1/10 Senton first and I think it is really good model as it has lot of 1/8 scale features in it. I was going between this and the ARRMA 1/8 scale but still it was very hard to upgrade and everything you looked was very expensive and to run something like this you need several batteries because they are fast and the batteries drain very fast and to have fun you want to keep on going. The ARRMA 1/10 Senton will set you back $6-800 plus $300 for couple of batteries and a charger on top of that so $1000-1200 to run. The real reason and the point why I started to look 1/5 scale was because the idea of clueing tyres didn’t really interest me and of course the run time seems little too little on electric car and after you have exhausted the batteries you are done.

http://www.arrma-rc.com/rc-cars/latest/senton/blx

So my interest started from looking at bead lock wheels for the 1/10 scale and I noticed how they were nice on outside and very skinny on the inside having 2.2/3.0 wheels. Not easy to find an alloy wheels and very limited in choice of tyres and expensive. Every time I saw something nice it was for the 1/5 scale and there just seems to be lot more available and the parts are maybe even cheaper. So I started to look what is around in 1/5 scale short course trucks.

I stumbled to Losi 5ive t and liked it a lot but it is so expensive starting from around $1500 RTR. That is not really that much more from the ARRMA Senton but I thought that the Senton was expensive so this was over my budget for a basic truck that after looking into it needed a replacement for the 26cc engine to make it move proper and most complained about the radio so that also needed to be addressed. So the real price for Losi 5ive as a starter is about $2000-2200. This just blew the budget right out and once you start to look 1/5 scale it is hard to go back.

I started to do lot of research for these clones after I realized there was similar trucks to Losi. Not good news as the first production runs of Rovan were blagged with faults and almost every review was the same “stay away”. This was at 2014 but since they have improved and are just as good as the Losi if not better in the level of upgrades they come with.

I found this King Motors X2 model with upgrades. Of course even with Losi you need to do a teardown and make sure everything is right and tight and Locktight used where you can. I got quoted $719 for model that has 30.5cc engine, radio that most like and many other upgrades worth plus $500.

I’m looking to get this X2 and now trying to find little more what I need in spare parts and running cost and of course to improve the truck. This truck will be RTR from the box with the gear it comes and wouldn’t really need anything else than to check everything is fine and if needed to do some shimming in places to make the suspension is tight as it seems to be a problem in the plastic arms. Not only in the clones. Also the shocks need different fluid and little maintenance before running. The inside surface is little ruff on new trucks and needs to be sanded and polished with fine paper to loosen it up and to prevent damage and wear. Same with the differentials they need to be pulled apart cleaned from the grease and put proper fluid in them and before that wire brush the gears and sand and polish the baring surfaces and shim the differentials to correct tolerances, same with all the other bearing surfaces on the truck check and polish and grease if needed. I would do this on Losi too just because these trucks are a big investment. After all is done and checked you have much more reliable truck and many happy hours of driving. Most people don’t bother to do a teardown and still the clones today are reliable and people seem to love them without complaints.

http://www.kingmotor.cn/racing/fourdrive/show-71.html

Little of the topic so lets get back to the tips.

I'm new to this so can someone please explain the suspension tuning? There are springs and fluids and of course different surfaces between soft beach sand, gravel, hard track surfaces and bitumen. What is the differences between front and back and what is the right stance for different surfaces? I know that if you want to take care of your drives you want to have them running in a small angle and this is important to the front.

It would be good to hear different views and different setups with different benefits. Thanks.

I've been using the stock setup for years with great success. As for the diffs, I was told early on to go with 30k front, 100k-120k in the center and 10k in the rear. I do not put tape or fishing line in my tires since I race off-road and we rarely get to go full speed but once and a while.

I recommend Hitec Servos - HS5765; 2 for steering and 1 for throttle/brake.

The differential fluids can differ depending of the engine. For what kind of HP figure is that for? I've heard that centre 100-120k before linked on high power engines. Less power like stock 26cc was about 70-100k for the centre.

FOR BASHING
Copper (orange) springs 45/40wt
30k/300k/10k

I'm brushless running 17t pinion 10s & 12s lipos.

I don think fishing line will hold up on a 1/5 truck, I would buy the hostile (non ballooning) foams. I run hostile MX tires with stock foams, ballooning isn't that bad. I don't do speed runs.

I will be running petrol so ballooning might not be the biggest issue. I'll try first. I'm open minded so for experiment I'm going to try the fishing line too. Taping the tyres might be better option thou. For the springs I have lot to learn. I have no feel about them yet so I can't make a picture in my mind if 45/40wt springs are hard or soft. I'm thinking of normal stance on front so I guess it will need firm springs too if the travel is little shorter. And then I need to figure what would be the right damper fluid and what are the differences in that between soft and hard suspension. Still new so trying to get my head around with many things and also there are so many different opinions that it is sometimes hard to see what works and what not. I'm going to try some different springs and will look for the orange. Thanks.

^^^^ 45/40wt is the oil I run in my shocks with Losi orange springs