Touring car to dirt latemodel
11-28-2010, 07:12 AM
#1
Touring car to dirt latemodel
Has anyone done this. I seen a few out there. a few at my local track are pushing for a 4wd latemodel class. Bodies are the issue. Im curious about tires and setups. We are think like TC3, TC4, XXXS and etc.
Any input would be great
Any input would be great
11-28-2010, 07:26 AM
#2
http://www.mcallisterracing.com/racing/
We run McAllister lids. Most of the guys run the XXXs, TC3's. I myself use a OFNA JL10e and there are a few TC5's out there too. With the TC chassis the guys tend to stick to the indoor oval to preserve the chassis. Our other class uses the B44 buggy chassis with a McAllister lid. Its not quite as big as an 8th scale but bigger than the TC class and more suited for a dirt track IMO. The 4wd buggy chassis offers alot more suspension travel..
http://www.tandtspeedway.com
We run McAllister lids. Most of the guys run the XXXs, TC3's. I myself use a OFNA JL10e and there are a few TC5's out there too. With the TC chassis the guys tend to stick to the indoor oval to preserve the chassis. Our other class uses the B44 buggy chassis with a McAllister lid. Its not quite as big as an 8th scale but bigger than the TC class and more suited for a dirt track IMO. The 4wd buggy chassis offers alot more suspension travel..
http://www.tandtspeedway.com
11-28-2010, 08:14 AM
#3
It will be ran on indoor oval. We are currently running sliders, stock SCt and stock truck on the oval. So far there is alot of interest in the latemodels.
What tires should be used for the 4wd latemodels?? I read that foam tires with grooves work good??
What tires should be used for the 4wd latemodels?? I read that foam tires with grooves work good??
11-28-2010, 09:44 AM
#4
C&M bodies are the best out there for 1/10 scale.
Grooved tires are not needed for capert indoors
You'll get better info on oval racing at www.dirtoval.com
Grooved tires are not needed for capert indoors
You'll get better info on oval racing at www.dirtoval.com
11-28-2010, 07:48 PM
#6
4WD dirt oval is one of the most popular classes in West Michigan. Most people use TC3's or TC4's because they are still shaft driven. Some try the xray or other belt drive cars, but they always seem to have problems with dirt in the belts and stuff. You could probably get away with it on a very high bite clay oval surface where rocks and dirt don't get up in the chasis area as much but the fast guys all use FT TC4's so they can get the battery as far left as possible.
We use mostly 200mm McCallister late model bodies and allow side dams up to 5 inches high. They are a handful without the side dams on the surfaces we race on (smooth, medium bite, hard clay surface). Downforce is a big advantage so some take wedge bodies, cut them down and try to use them, but those bodies are banned for the most part because they don't look like real dirt (or real at all) late models. We don't want to run space ships on dirt
You may want to try one ways or lockers in the front, but get ready to start buying CVD's and outdrives as they are really hard on the drive train.
You will enjoy them, they are a riot, but a little high maintenance for sure.
We use mostly 200mm McCallister late model bodies and allow side dams up to 5 inches high. They are a handful without the side dams on the surfaces we race on (smooth, medium bite, hard clay surface). Downforce is a big advantage so some take wedge bodies, cut them down and try to use them, but those bodies are banned for the most part because they don't look like real dirt (or real at all) late models. We don't want to run space ships on dirt
You may want to try one ways or lockers in the front, but get ready to start buying CVD's and outdrives as they are really hard on the drive train.
You will enjoy them, they are a riot, but a little high maintenance for sure.
12-07-2010, 10:41 AM
#10
a few years back the hot set up for convewrting a TC to DO was a TC3 with rally conversion kit - takes it from 190MM to 200MM and use 205MM McAllister Tucson body or McAllister Hagerstown 200 body.....integy makes a set of dirt oval springs with weight values from 6lbs to 12lbs - the hardest part is getting the 3 degree toe in the rear out of the car so it does not push in the corners - foams with grooves would work well.
12-07-2010, 02:53 PM
#11
I did, haven't run it in years though. I've got a FT TC4 I picked up secondhand as a TC Dirt Late Model. Aside from the obvious wheel alignment changes (positive left front camber, etc.) and springs the previous owner removed all four of the upper deck standoffs at each corner of the chassis, and then I went and used those holes in the chassis to mount a nerf bar I fabbed from coathanger wire. I also went ahead and pulled out all of the droop screws except for the left front.
Probably the most effective change I made to the car was to the rear anti-squat. I took all the shims out of both the front and rear hinge pin blocks, then wedged a 4-40 locknut (you heard me) under the left side of the forward rear hinge pin block. Took a lot of bending and prying but it's there. Before the car would come off the corners and just keep turning, but once I shoved all of that left rear anti-squat into it the car drove hard off the left rear corner on exit and I was able to get back in the throttle a lot earlier and more aggressively.
We were running 19-turn motors (this was just before brushless took off) and rubber tires (although I'm told grooved foam on clay is much more fun). Body I have hung on it is a McAllister Bluegrass.
Probably the most effective change I made to the car was to the rear anti-squat. I took all the shims out of both the front and rear hinge pin blocks, then wedged a 4-40 locknut (you heard me) under the left side of the forward rear hinge pin block. Took a lot of bending and prying but it's there. Before the car would come off the corners and just keep turning, but once I shoved all of that left rear anti-squat into it the car drove hard off the left rear corner on exit and I was able to get back in the throttle a lot earlier and more aggressively.
We were running 19-turn motors (this was just before brushless took off) and rubber tires (although I'm told grooved foam on clay is much more fun). Body I have hung on it is a McAllister Bluegrass.
12-07-2010, 03:01 PM
#12
by the way...ever heard of Open Show racing? 
12-11-2010, 06:44 AM
#13
After reading the posts on this subject i was wondering what tracks in illinios race this class.I have a tc4 that i could convert to a LM racer, so i am looking for info now,getting a body wont be hard to do.What about wheels and tires? what will work on a tc4? what needs to be done to set up the tc4 chassie,will a novak gtb work for the esc what lipo is used? any info would help alot.This looks to be a fun class to race.BTW ote the missile only 4 months to round 1 of the M.W.N.S. series at LH in joliet see you there 
12-19-2010, 12:56 PM
#15
Here is what we ran very recently over in tulsa. Tc4, the track has about medium bite loose dirt oval with some bank to it.
shocks: 30wt front 40wt rear
springs: gold front, green left rr, silver rr
tires: Hpi rally tire or old associated rally tire
mcallister hagerstown body with small side dam up to left front A-pilar and 2 inche spoiler. i used a parma outlaw
Open motors with a 6.5 geared about 9.20
Solid front spool or locked gears with heavy duty cvd. 0 left caster 2degree right caster. 1 degree positive left 1 degree negative rt side camber. Battery all the way back.
steering down to about 50% on radio power up to 90%
hope this helps?
shocks: 30wt front 40wt rear
springs: gold front, green left rr, silver rr
tires: Hpi rally tire or old associated rally tire
mcallister hagerstown body with small side dam up to left front A-pilar and 2 inche spoiler. i used a parma outlaw
Open motors with a 6.5 geared about 9.20
Solid front spool or locked gears with heavy duty cvd. 0 left caster 2degree right caster. 1 degree positive left 1 degree negative rt side camber. Battery all the way back.
steering down to about 50% on radio power up to 90%
hope this helps?