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GT8 Class--buggy-based on road electric!

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GT8 Class--buggy-based on road electric!

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Old 03-08-2011, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by FangsCPO View Post
Now that you mention it, I seem to notice the same thing on one of my wheels but I kinda just blew it off since the tires are wearing out sooner than the wheels. I may have to go back and look again.....now I'm curious.
Not trying to be a jerk here but your body could be rubbing at full lock when you are pitched over in a turn and it may just enough that you dont here it. Check for rubber dust inside the body. It may be only happening at certain speeds.
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Old 03-08-2011, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by TimmyMontoya View Post
Has anyone used an Xray 808E to make one of these GT cars? Im very interested in doing this but want to drive an Xray!! From what I can tell I would need different shocks and shock towers. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks
You can basically turn any 1/8 buggy into a GT. The main factor is how difficult it will be. For my Jammin the Kyosho IGT parts bolted right on, so it was easy, for an Xray you may need custom towers and more fabrication to make stuff like body mounts and bumper work.

As a basic parts list I'd say: Shocks, shock towers, bumper, body mounts, body, and wheels/tires.

This was posted on the Xray forum back in 2007, doesn't seem to have much info though, or what ever happened with that car: http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic.php?=&p=47406
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Old 03-08-2011, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TimmyMontoya View Post
Has anyone used an Xray 808E to make one of these GT cars? Im very interested in doing this but want to drive an Xray!! From what I can tell I would need different shocks and shock towers. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks
To convert an Xray 808E to a GT car, you'll basically need to do what I did with Tamiya TF801X.

I took the upper part of the kyosho GT shock tower along with the lower half of the TRF801 shock tower and made a cutout and gave it to SNRScion who is on this thread and he made me custom front and rear shock tower. After that, I mounted the front and rear body mounts from Kyosho along with bumper and my car was a GT. Here is the build thread:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...d-project.html
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Jspeed View Post
Steve are those hard case batteries?

I agree Triple A mains are very cool, gotta make it worth the trip yes?
Yes they are the hardcase batteries.
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Old 03-09-2011, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Missle View Post
I didn't think the Kyosho's had adjustable caster at least I couldn't locate an adjustment point other than the Dremel adjuster
They don't, except for changing the C-Hub and they don't make one with less caster. I thought you were talking about the Ofna car.
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Old 03-09-2011, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by williamw View Post
They don't, except for changing the C-Hub and they don't make one with less caster. I thought you were talking about the Ofna car.
The "B-Blocks" can reduce caster a little.
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Old 03-09-2011, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Missle View Post
Got a weird problem with my IGT2 Vette.
I running < 2 deg camber so I'm wondering if Toe-in has anything to do with it?
Running -2 degrees up front is way too much camber and toe-in is not good on the track.

Try running -1 degree camber (adjust according to tire patch wear pattern).

For front, running only + 1/2 or even 0 degrees toe-out (each side) is better than any toe-in. These changes should help reduce the "death ring" on your tires.

Good luck.
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Old 03-09-2011, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by snrscion View Post
Yes they are the hardcase batteries.
Very cool.

How long are the A Mains you guys run with Charlie B?
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Old 03-09-2011, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Jspeed View Post
Running -2 degrees up front is way too much camber and toe-in is not good on the track.

Try running -1 degree camber (adjust according to tire patch wear pattern).

For front, running only + 1/2 or even 0 degrees toe-out (each side) is better than any toe-in. These changes should help reduce the "death ring" on your tires.

Good luck.
Thanks Jspeed! I'll try -1 deg camber and adjust per the wear patch. I was told last year to run 2 deg but that came from a couple of the track "pros" .
I'll also adjust the toe-in to 0 and see how twitchy she is on the straight.
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Old 03-09-2011, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Missle View Post
I'll also adjust the toe-in to 0 and see how twitchy she is on the straight.
I actually have been running +1 degree of toe-out with my GT cars for years. Toe-out in your car's front can be your very best friend on the race track.
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Jspeed View Post
Thats cool, but what kind of run times are GT Electrics getting on average?

Not just with big buck batteries, but on average with 4S or (2) 2S packs?

Chime in fellas, need to know.

Thanks.
I can get 8 minutes tops on my zippy 4cell 5000mah bat. But, like some of u know, i love speeeed!
I may be able to squeeze out 10 min if i geared down a bit. My 5800 mah batts (on order) should make the time though. How long is the straight out there?
I think for the most part Charlie @ OC Circuit runs a 7 min format w/ 2 qualifiers and a main.
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Old 03-10-2011, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by J-milz View Post
I wanted to get into the 1/8 GT thing, so I decided to convert my old Losi 8ight E into an onroad monster.
-I added 90 wht shock oil all around
-purchased the L8 towers, body mount, front bumper, and lower springs.
-put in a monster 2450kv combo
-front losi 8ight shocks all around

The problem im having is, the suspension is still too cushy like an off roader. WTF? Has anyone converted their's? Tips? What can I do to stiffen things up a bit to carve corners better? Suggestions?
I didn't see if you mentioned which shocks springs you are running? What WildBill said is right on but if you are trying to cut cost for now, the springs could be the problem in my opinion. Losi offers 6 springs varying in resistence, I forget what is the patter of firmest to softest but I know that Silver is firmer than Green.....If I'm wrong, please someone correct me. Good Luck!
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Old 03-10-2011, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Jspeed View Post
The "B-Blocks" can reduce caster a little.
That is correct.

The A and B blocks are the upper and lower blocks on the rear of the front bulkhead. The car comes with A blocks but no B blocks are supplied. The part you will need is http://www.igthobbies.com/product_p/kyoif124b.htm

That set comes with A blocks, B blocks, and the complete set of rear toe blocks (2, 2.5, and 3 degree)

You must change both upper and lower block at the same time and they must match. Going to a B Block setup gives you lower caster angle for more quicker steering response.
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Old 03-10-2011, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by WildBillMassey View Post
That is correct.
OMG!
Stop the press, hell has frozen over, pigs can fly..... JK...

Here's some cool Warrior body pics from our GT racing Brothers in Brazil; for those of you that like pictures.

See ya at the races!
Attached Thumbnails GT8 Class--buggy-based on road electric!-ipanema-gt-warriors-sao-paulo-brazil-2011.jpg   GT8 Class--buggy-based on road electric!-brazilian-ipanema-gt-warriors-2011.jpg   GT8 Class--buggy-based on road electric!-brazilian-pink-ipanema-gt-warrior-2011.jpg   GT8 Class--buggy-based on road electric!-brazilian-ipanema-gt-warriors-2011-2.jpg   GT8 Class--buggy-based on road electric!-brazilian-ipanema-gt-warrior-2011.jpg  

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Old 03-10-2011, 02:35 PM
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Wanted to chime in on the run time of these cars. One of the biggest things we've come to notice running 1/8th off road electric for 4+ years now is that run time varies greatly between drivers and driving style. Driver A can have the exact same setup as driver B but run his batteries out twice as fast (no exaggeration). Driver skill and driving style make a huge difference. A pro level driver might only be able to race these cars for 6-8 min, and expert driver 8-10min, and a sportsman anywhere from 8-15min, all with the same setups. Sometimes hard to believe but several factors support this. Pro drivers typically turn more more laps than average racers. Pro drivers drive deeper into turns and brake later and harder than average drivers. They also have the ability to drive strapped yet be in total control (this is more of an off road thing but can still apply here) whereas others cannot push that hard with good results.

I'd say that whatever the lowest time posted is you'd want to go 1 min lower than that to allow for any inconsistencies and warm-up laps. And by doing triple A-Mains you allow racers to get their money's worth of track time. This race shouldn't be won or lost due to a battery dumping.

One last note, or wish, lol, if you can work in a way to bump up through the mains that would also be really cool. I know it's hard to do with triple A's but winning a lower main and knowing you have another race is very exciting. Plus it also allows for bum qualifiers.
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