vivo quevas

iTrader: (19)

I have an OFNA GTP converted to a DLM (dirt late model) it came with an OFNA 2.8 it runs good plenty of power with the stock pipe but I bent the pipe in a wreck (yes I did straighten it out) but it's time to up grade.
Pipe is so important to the performance of a 2 stroke motor so I'm taking suggestion on what pipe to get myself for Christmas.
After I get the car dialed in I have a Jammin 2.8 to replace the stock engine, would you run the same pipe on both motor or would you recomend a different pipe for each motor.
I have been looking at the Jammin pipes but I was as looking at on road pipes too. Help me please

n10cities

Is it a long or short oval? The Jammin JP pipes are pretty popular. Run a shorter pipe for long ovals (more top end) and a long pipe for short ovals (more bottom end torque).

I am running a Novarossi 41020 long manifold and 51017 Muffler with a Nova N21BF engine and that combo pulls hard off the corners, but tops out pretty quick. The local track I have run on is very short (50 ft straight).

Here is a Youtube video of the track I run on to give you an idea of the length.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlPsg3IA-3M

vivo quevas

iTrader: (19)

Our track is 20 ft longer and the in field is 15ft wider. My question is how do you get your car to have such a control rotation on corner exit? Your car looks really under control.

Doug Gaut

If you are running a .28 size engine (big block) you already have the bottom end torque and will want a smoother bottom end pipe with good midrange and top end. Here is a small list of pipes the guys in the NSCS have used in the past couple of years on big blocks with great results and fuel mileage.

Dynamite Platinum 053 - good bottom end and mid range

Dynamite Platinum 086 - smooth bottom end and mid range with great top end

Losi RE11 - smooth bottom end with great mid range and top end - great fuel mileage

Here is a link to some videos of the NSCS races over the past summer. Joplin R/C Speedway is about the only track we race at that a .28 big block would have any kind of performance advantage on a good high bite night. Most of the the time we all run .21s.

http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=ovalgod08#g/u

rossoh10

iTrader: (10)

tt 2035 for any track..The TT 2035 has worked good on every engine I have ran..Just change your gearing depending on the track

vivo quevas

iTrader: (19)

What brand is a TT 2035 what gearing are you running we have a 190ft line Our track hasn't been run enough to blue groove we only have 2 races on it since we had to re do it and really 4 races total on it.

rossoh10

iTrader: (10)

It is a Thunder Tiger 2035..I`m running 14/44..I can`t tell you the final gear ratio though....I could gear up and run the high line of the track but I like to run the low side of the track..What LM are you running..

vivo quevas

iTrader: (19)

I race a OFNA gtp converted for dirt oval your gear ratio is14x44=3.14 ratio. I am going to try to run a higher gear ratio then you 18x51=2.88 our track is California hard pan and it gets a light coat of dust and is realy slipery so I'm trying to make the car easier to drive from the middle of the corner off. The OFNA 2.8 in my car has super torque and is hand full. I have changed my car since the last race trying to get a set up that I can stay on the power getting in the corner and rotate the car off the corner with the power down without spinning out. the next upgrade is going to be a new pipe so far after looking at the recomendations so far the dynamite 086 looks like a the ticket.

n10cities

The suspension configuration (RC8) is basically stock setup. The rear buggy shock tower was replaced with an SC8 rear tower in order to stand up the rear shocks and give me a place to mount the rear Losi body mount. The car is still pretty tight going into the corner.

That and a slow throttle finger. The engine pulls so hard coming off the corner, I was having to shut down about half straight in order to keep from over shooting the corners.

(FYI..if you were watching the red car, that wasn't my car. Mine was the yellow one about a straight in front of the red car (the car you see in my avatar). You don't really get to see it until about 3 minutes into the video when I come up to LAP the red car!! )

vivo quevas

iTrader: (19)

Doug your Car's turn was really under control but the red car has the control slide I'm looking for the red car had traffic problem but all the cars in that race were closely matched. The Barns track has great clay. Our track has Calif. hard pan it's a light brown rock hard and the guy's who built it did there best but they put way to much banking in the outside of the turns and the cars really can only run on a 4' flat area at the bottom of the curve. The bank is made of a different soil that didn't bind together as well as the hard pan at the bottom. The club is going to lengthen the track 15' more feet and I'm hopping they will knock the banks down and widen the straights to the same width they made the turns.
Back on the Pipe topic I think I'm going to try a Dynamite 053 a mid range pipe. Has anyone tried this pipe and if you have what do you think of it.

NEMESIS44

iTrader: (8)

I use a JP-1 because it makes really good power all the way through but...I have an extremely fuel-efficeint engine. The JP-1 is a gas-hog so it might not be very good on a higher powered engine.

Doug Gaut

The red car is my buddies that has a Dynamite Platinum .28 in it with a Dynamite 053 pipe. Mine had a Dynamite Platinum .21 with a 007HT. That night the track had a ton of bite causing my car to pick up a push. Normally its a little slicker than that and the .21 has more than enough power to break the tires loose.