My Losi 5iveB Elcetric Build
#17
#18
#19
Alrighty I've gone and built another one. This one is a cheaper build as it won't have all the alloy, but it will have better electronics.
This time round it's getting a FLIER 250amp 12S ESC and the Leopard v2 58113 700kv and I'll be running it on 10S. I thought I would go with 10S because 2x6S packs is allot of weight right up front with the RC Madness conversion. This will shed about 200grams
of weight up front. I might even put the 6S pack and 2S receiver pack up front, and the 4S pack where the receiver pack would normally go to balance things out a bit
I did have Castle XLX and Leopard 58110 780kv in it on 8S. Sure it moves, but the new combo on 10S will have slightly less amp draw, and more power, and more speed
The electronics are on the way from China now by express post, so I'll keep ya's all updated
Here it is so far, painted with with my new found love of this "candy red" colour - Tamiya translucent red backed with silver
This time round it's getting a FLIER 250amp 12S ESC and the Leopard v2 58113 700kv and I'll be running it on 10S. I thought I would go with 10S because 2x6S packs is allot of weight right up front with the RC Madness conversion. This will shed about 200grams
of weight up front. I might even put the 6S pack and 2S receiver pack up front, and the 4S pack where the receiver pack would normally go to balance things out a bit
I did have Castle XLX and Leopard 58110 780kv in it on 8S. Sure it moves, but the new combo on 10S will have slightly less amp draw, and more power, and more speed
The electronics are on the way from China now by express post, so I'll keep ya's all updated
Here it is so far, painted with with my new found love of this "candy red" colour - Tamiya translucent red backed with silver
#20
i love it ! i can't wait to see how this thing performs !
#21
Yeah It should go well, and I'll be able to get a video up this time. The Leopard 700kv is an 8-12S motor, so I will run it on 10S first and see how the temps go. If they're ok I'll gear it down and see what 12S unleashes lol
#22
Some tips if you have an action camera to record video's by yourself!
I wanna see those videos of yours 5B!
I wanna see those videos of yours 5B!
#23
Haha no worries.
I have one of those cheap go-pro style cameras from ebay, it came with a million mounting brackets also. I'll get on to that straight away and mount it up.
I never thought of putting on the TX, I've tried with the head strap, I've tried cliping into my belt, but this looks like the solution
I have one of those cheap go-pro style cameras from ebay, it came with a million mounting brackets also. I'll get on to that straight away and mount it up.
I never thought of putting on the TX, I've tried with the head strap, I've tried cliping into my belt, but this looks like the solution
#24
Tech Rookie
Please let us know what you think of that Flier ESC. I have the XL-X but on these large scale RC a 12s esc seems like it would be a better option.
-Liberty
-Liberty
#25
This Flier ESC/Leopard combo might end up in my DBXLe instead. There's extra wiring and I need to run a BEC as the Flier is an OPTO ESC. I want to keep the 5iveB as light as possible, so I might just keep it 8S, plus space might be a problem
#26
Change of plan, the Flier esc and new Leopard motor are going in my DBXLe.
See that thread for some updated pics and all
See that thread for some updated pics and all
#27
my point of view for filming : i can't drive AND film with a cam on my remote !! i prefer a HEAD CAM ! for nice slow motions i film in 120 FPS and can slow down 25% and still got a 30 FPS slow mo with a nice flowy move
for illustration purpose ( i can remove it , no problem )
for illustration purpose ( i can remove it , no problem )
Last edited by werner sline; 11-15-2018 at 11:58 PM.
#28
[QUOTE=werner sline;15336788]my point of view for filming : i can't drive AND film with a cam on my remote !! i prefer a HEAD CAM ! for nice slow motions i film in 120 FPS and can slow down 25% and still got a 30 FPS slow mo with a nice flowy move
for illustration purpose ( i can remove it , no problem )
Your camera must be bomb proof being mounted on the side like that
for illustration purpose ( i can remove it , no problem )
Your camera must be bomb proof being mounted on the side like that
#29
[QUOTE=gavsta72;15337591]
lol, it's ok, i broke none this way ! but i broke a gopro by taping its screen next to a screw. screen broke !
my point of view for filming : i can't drive AND film with a cam on my remote !! i prefer a HEAD CAM ! for nice slow motions i film in 120 FPS and can slow down 25% and still got a 30 FPS slow mo with a nice flowy move
for illustration purpose ( i can remove it , no problem )
Your camera must be bomb proof being mounted on the side like that
for illustration purpose ( i can remove it , no problem )
Your camera must be bomb proof being mounted on the side like that
#30
Tech Rookie
The cab forward one I have is 500102P
The standard body is 500101P
I agree the stock one is bulky, I was going to get the Grafil G-Forza, but it has the indent for the motor cut out. I just took a gamble after eyeing up dozens of pictures of the RR5 and thought "that'll fit" and it does perfectly....it's about 10mm wider where it meets the side guards.
It's thin polycarb though, but I've run duct tape all over the inside. Lucky Patcher 9Apps VidMate Main thing is it has no holes cut-out. It also comes with stickers for the windows, body clips, and the body clip retainers - which are meant to go in the holes for the body posts, and the posts go through them - I worked that out after the fact :(
The standard body is 500101P
I agree the stock one is bulky, I was going to get the Grafil G-Forza, but it has the indent for the motor cut out. I just took a gamble after eyeing up dozens of pictures of the RR5 and thought "that'll fit" and it does perfectly....it's about 10mm wider where it meets the side guards.
It's thin polycarb though, but I've run duct tape all over the inside. Lucky Patcher 9Apps VidMate Main thing is it has no holes cut-out. It also comes with stickers for the windows, body clips, and the body clip retainers - which are meant to go in the holes for the body posts, and the posts go through them - I worked that out after the fact :(
Last edited by klimbo123; 01-19-2019 at 07:00 AM.