Hey Colt. Welcome to the family!
It doesn't make sence to argue here because we came to learn from each other expirience. Can you open please one of your secret-how much % balancing is your target when you mode crancks-I have confused data collected over the years and it seems like your data can clear up something.
thanks a lot.

EdwardN I dont have any secrets :)

Does anyone know what type of "epoxy" is used for ramping the crank porks. I am only assuming it is epoxy because this is what it is commonly called.

Thanks

Keith

FIRST LET ME SAY I'M NO EXPERT,BUT I DO HAVE EXPERIENCE IN MODDING ENGINES.THE ERROR MOST PEOPLE MAKE IS THINK THAT A CRANK IS BALANCED,AND IT'S NOT.THE COUNTER WEIGHT ON THE CRANK IS TO OFFSET THE WEIGHT OF THE PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD.SO IF YOU REMOVE MATERIAL FROM THE COUNTER WEIGHT YOU MUST REMOVE WEIGHT FROM THE PISTON AND ROD.THE CRANK IS STEEL ,VERY DENSE METAL.THE ROD AND PISTON ARE MADE OF ALUMINUM ALLOY,MUCH LIGHTER MATERIAL.SO IF YOU THINK ABOUT IT IF YOU REMOVE 1/4 GRAM OF WEIGHT FROM CRANK YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE SAME AMOUNT FROM THE PISTON AND ROD.(JUST CUT THE ROD IN HALF! :lol: )SO YOU SEE IT'S REALLY NOT POSSIBLE TO REBALANCE AN ENGINE PROPERLY UNLESS YOU ADD THE WEIGHT BACK ON THE CRANK IN THE FORM OF A PLUG OF SOME SORT,IVE SEEN MOTORS WITH WEIGHT PLUGS ADDED TO COMPENSATE FOR CUTS MADE TO A CRANK TO INCREASE PERFORMANCE.JUST MY OPINION,NOT LOOKING TO START A DEBATE. :D

I use what was recomended to me by Brian AKA MXwrench. Threebond 1211 This stuff is awsome and it lays smooth as glass if done right! The only bad thing is that it takes a good 2 days to setup nice and hard. I usually let the engine set for 2-3 days just to make sure its totally cured. This stuff hasnt failed me once! And when I test engines I down right ABUSE them!! :sneaky:

Thanks Colt4g63, where do you get this stuff?

Keith

I get mine off the net here.. http://www.pro-flo.com/three_bond_products.htm#Sealants

hey guys I will start off by saying i'm not even claiming to be good , here is a p5 i did it turned out some great gains. i feel you just start off doing little things see what they change and take notes of your mods, what each thing did.i did this in my garage, the sleeve took about 1 hour, the crank took almost 3. the case not shown about 15 min. any questions or comments are welcome obviosley. :sneaky:

iv never seen a crank like that befor,what dos it do for you.

well first i want to say i hope like hell this is not going to get stuff started like i'v seen in the other mod threads. i saw a pic of a crank like this done on a 12, i ran my p5 for some time before i did this and after doing this the fuel burn was more efficiant, throttle responce was way more crisp and sensitve, rpms increased on the top end at lower temps and the powerband started way sooner with the same pipe.it was explained in great detail what this mod does, it sounded like what i was looking for so i did it myself.

and also my pic does not show the skill and amazing craftsmanship of the one i saw.

what did you do to the crank case ?

removed the front and rear bearings and polished the area were they sit in, i found by doing that it will free up just a fraction of the preasure that can sometimes bind the bearing. :sneaky:

Hey Nugenb.
I am not bushing you, I just want to help you. When engineers are designing the engines they put press fittings for bearings in purpose. Usualy it is .015-.020 mm press interference. When engine works and heat up, crancase expend more then bearing ( material expention rates) and interference will be smaller (still will be there to keep beaqring steady in case) and will not slow down bearings. You can do whatever you want to, I just try to help and understand what is behind press fit.
Use this tool to make sure you are not overploishing bearings seats.

mugenb46, where can we get a link on this explanation? Sounds like it will help me understand what modding each area does for the engine. Or at least put us newbies to modding one step closer.