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Project: Break in Dutch machine

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Project: Break in Dutch machine

Old 02-21-2016, 04:33 AM
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Thank you for answers.

Most maybe has metal shield but I have rubber ones

Project: Break in Dutch machine-silniki.jpg



Now I will try to build my machine and test it on LRP ZZ.12X team spec.2 or XRD .12 hard tuned


Originally Posted by Roelof View Post
The oil I used so far is common 2-stroke oil used with homebrew fuel. I do not expect the rubber rings are affected. The only rubber ring is indeed the one in the carb shaft.
I do not think these silicone rings are affected by any kind of oil but you can always take it out. Most onroad engines have a metal shield in the front bearing. The seal of the front bearing is placed close to the cover and is above oil level, also the large hole where the crankshaft is comming through is giving some cooling.

From the original Dutch Break in guy I haven't heard any issues with the seals and his construction has the front bearing totaly covered in hot oil. I should look up the specs but I expect 90 degrees celcius is pinuts to withstand.

The wires going inside the oil bath are silicone wires from electric racing, the shielding can withstand high temperatures. The shrinkwrap does not melt either. And because it is oil and low voltage powered there is no way to have a shortcut.
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Old 02-21-2016, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Thank you for answers.

Now I will try to build my machine and test it on LRP ZZ.12X team spec.2 or XRD .12 hard tuned
It would be nice to post your building proces as Richard and I did.
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Old 03-02-2016, 03:29 PM
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An OS piston after 9 hours. Used oil: Shell 0w20
Attached Thumbnails Project: Break in Dutch machine-piston.jpg  
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Old 03-03-2016, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Roelof View Post
An OS piston after 9 hours. Used oil: Shell 0w20
Wau!! Looking good. How about the oil? Can it be re-used or do you need to have a fresh oil for every single engine? And how much is the consumption, 0,5liters or something?

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Old 03-03-2016, 01:22 AM
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In my oil there were small metal particles shown, for sure if you filter it it can be re-used. Richard does not have any dirt in his oil and he can reuse his oil w/o filtering it. (Although I think it is OK to do a 2nd engine with my oil w/o filtering). Tonight I will post a photo of the oil.

My setup takes about 380cc of oil.
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:39 PM
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This is what the oil looks like after the OS engine:

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Old 03-03-2016, 11:17 PM
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So the consumption of the liquid is comparable to the traditional way. For example appr. 1liter of nitro fuel.

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Old 03-03-2016, 11:36 PM
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About 370~380cc (depending crankcase size) of oil, thats about 4 dollar of oil. And to remind you, no tires, lost practise time etc.

But again, the engine is comming as a pre-run status from this bench so still a (shorter) break in proces is needed.
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Old 03-04-2016, 01:19 AM
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The lost practise time is the most valuable thing for many of us.. If you only have about 12 practise weekends plus race weekends in north Europe available during the season, you don't want to use those for breaking in the engines at the track.

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Old 03-04-2016, 02:33 PM
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So, the BIG question is, how does the engine run and behave with this method compared to lapping..?
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Old 03-04-2016, 02:59 PM
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Basically this is lapping but using the sleeve as a mold for the piston so at the end you will get a perfect fit and because no grinding material is used a much smoother surface.

We did not run an engine yet but from the break in Dutch guy and his customers we have heard about a better power and a better milage.
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Old 03-04-2016, 03:03 PM
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that is also the my results from lapping pistons.
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Old 03-06-2016, 12:41 PM
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This is the piston of an Ielasi Tuned 9CL after 9 hours. The touching surface is at the top side of the piston.

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Old 03-06-2016, 10:22 PM
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[QUOTE=Roelof;14433033]This is the piston of an Ielasi Tuned 9CL after 9 hours. The touching surface is at the top side of the piston.

That does not make it right.
That is an oil scraper.
Piston should be barrel shaped near the top (at operating temp profile) with the sealing surface between the 2 oil grooves.
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Old 03-06-2016, 10:53 PM
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Piston shape

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...96-piston.html


From Uriah Murnan-

"I only clean the carbon if it is really thick, and looks like it could flake off. I only clean the top of the piston. I don't clean carbon off the side of the piston"

http://www.rctech.net/forum/onroad-n...otors-219.html
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