16LikesProject: Break in Dutch machine
02-21-2016, 04:33 AM
#31
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Thank you for answers.
Most maybe has metal shield
but I have rubber ones
Now I will try to build my machine and test it on LRP ZZ.12X team spec.2 or XRD .12 hard tuned
Most maybe has metal shield
but I have rubber ones 
Now I will try to build my machine and test it on LRP ZZ.12X team spec.2 or XRD .12 hard tuned
Originally Posted by Roelof
The oil I used so far is common 2-stroke oil used with homebrew fuel. I do not expect the rubber rings are affected. The only rubber ring is indeed the one in the carb shaft.
I do not think these silicone rings are affected by any kind of oil but you can always take it out. Most onroad engines have a metal shield in the front bearing. The seal of the front bearing is placed close to the cover and is above oil level, also the large hole where the crankshaft is comming through is giving some cooling.
From the original Dutch Break in guy I haven't heard any issues with the seals and his construction has the front bearing totaly covered in hot oil. I should look up the specs but I expect 90 degrees celcius is pinuts to withstand.
The wires going inside the oil bath are silicone wires from electric racing, the shielding can withstand high temperatures. The shrinkwrap does not melt either. And because it is oil and low voltage powered there is no way to have a shortcut.
I do not think these silicone rings are affected by any kind of oil but you can always take it out. Most onroad engines have a metal shield in the front bearing. The seal of the front bearing is placed close to the cover and is above oil level, also the large hole where the crankshaft is comming through is giving some cooling.
From the original Dutch Break in guy I haven't heard any issues with the seals and his construction has the front bearing totaly covered in hot oil. I should look up the specs but I expect 90 degrees celcius is pinuts to withstand.
The wires going inside the oil bath are silicone wires from electric racing, the shielding can withstand high temperatures. The shrinkwrap does not melt either. And because it is oil and low voltage powered there is no way to have a shortcut.
02-21-2016, 05:45 AM
#32
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz
Thank you for answers.
Now I will try to build my machine and test it on LRP ZZ.12X team spec.2 or XRD .12 hard tuned
Now I will try to build my machine and test it on LRP ZZ.12X team spec.2 or XRD .12 hard tuned
03-02-2016, 03:29 PM
#33
An OS piston after 9 hours. Used oil: Shell 0w20
03-03-2016, 12:46 AM
#34
Tech Initiate
Originally Posted by Roelof
An OS piston after 9 hours. Used oil: Shell 0w20
-X-
03-03-2016, 01:22 AM
#35
In my oil there were small metal particles shown, for sure if you filter it it can be re-used. Richard does not have any dirt in his oil and he can reuse his oil w/o filtering it. (Although I think it is OK to do a 2nd engine with my oil w/o filtering). Tonight I will post a photo of the oil.
My setup takes about 380cc of oil.
My setup takes about 380cc of oil.
03-03-2016, 01:39 PM
#36
This is what the oil looks like after the OS engine:
03-03-2016, 11:17 PM
#37
Tech Initiate
So the consumption of the liquid is comparable to the traditional way. For example appr. 1liter of nitro fuel.
-X-
-X-
03-03-2016, 11:36 PM
#38
About 370~380cc (depending crankcase size) of oil, thats about 4 dollar of oil. And to remind you, no tires, lost practise time etc.
But again, the engine is comming as a pre-run status from this bench so still a (shorter) break in proces is needed.
But again, the engine is comming as a pre-run status from this bench so still a (shorter) break in proces is needed.
03-04-2016, 01:19 AM
#39
Tech Initiate
The lost practise time is the most valuable thing for many of us.. If you only have about 12 practise weekends plus race weekends in north Europe available during the season, you don't want to use those for breaking in the engines at the track.
-X-
-X-
03-04-2016, 02:33 PM
#40
Tech Master
So, the BIG question is, how does the engine run and behave with this method compared to lapping..?
03-04-2016, 02:59 PM
#41
Basically this is lapping but using the sleeve as a mold for the piston so at the end you will get a perfect fit and because no grinding material is used a much smoother surface.
We did not run an engine yet but from the break in Dutch guy and his customers we have heard about a better power and a better milage.
We did not run an engine yet but from the break in Dutch guy and his customers we have heard about a better power and a better milage.
03-04-2016, 03:03 PM
#42
Tech Master
that is also the my results from lapping pistons.
03-06-2016, 12:41 PM
#43
This is the piston of an Ielasi Tuned 9CL after 9 hours. The touching surface is at the top side of the piston.
03-06-2016, 10:22 PM
#44
Tech Apprentice
[QUOTE=Roelof;14433033]This is the piston of an Ielasi Tuned 9CL after 9 hours. The touching surface is at the top side of the piston.
That does not make it right.
That is an oil scraper.
Piston should be barrel shaped near the top (at operating temp profile) with the sealing surface between the 2 oil grooves.
That does not make it right.
That is an oil scraper.
Piston should be barrel shaped near the top (at operating temp profile) with the sealing surface between the 2 oil grooves.
03-06-2016, 10:53 PM
#45
Tech Apprentice
Piston shape
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...96-piston.html
From Uriah Murnan-
"I only clean the carbon if it is really thick, and looks like it could flake off. I only clean the top of the piston. I don't clean carbon off the side of the piston"
http://www.rctech.net/forum/onroad-n...otors-219.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...96-piston.html
From Uriah Murnan-
"I only clean the carbon if it is really thick, and looks like it could flake off. I only clean the top of the piston. I don't clean carbon off the side of the piston"
http://www.rctech.net/forum/onroad-n...otors-219.html
