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Old 09-01-2008, 06:13 PM   #61
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I've got a MaxPower SL3 with a MaxPower 2602 header/pipe combo ..... after a few encounters with boards the pipe has a few BIG dents ..... How will this effect the motor ..... I've tried to find a place that sell the just the pipe but can't, all I find is the header/pipe combo ..... what would be another good pipe to use with SL3 .... the Novarossi 2630?
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Old 09-01-2008, 08:38 PM   #62
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the 2630 or the skyline Pluss pipe, They are both good pipes for that engine.
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Old 09-02-2008, 12:08 PM   #63
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I'm looking to purchase a used SL3 from a friend. I'm thinking I may need to build it soon, does anyone know where I can find parts and what they will run me in terms of dollars?
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Old 09-02-2008, 04:31 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid View Post
I'm looking to purchase a used SL3 from a friend. I'm thinking I may need to build it soon, does anyone know where I can find parts and what they will run me in terms of dollars?
You can get parts from Ahford Hobbies, Dan at Bruckner hobbies can also get them for you. Conrods look like there around $35 and a pis/slv/con set should be around $200 not sure on the exact price. If you have to spend more than 300 dollars on the motor and rebuilding it, I'd just go ahead and get a new XL3 or XXL3 You'd spend a little over $400 for a "new" XL3 and it comes with ceramic bearings.
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Old 09-02-2008, 05:12 PM   #65
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Default Rebuilding Engines

One of the key areas in rebuilding an existing engine is not just the piston, sleeve and rod.

Other factors to consider:
Engine Bearings: How much fuel has the engine seen? 1 gallon, 2 gallons? etc etc. Engines with bearings that are worn can dramatically decrease the life of a brand new piston and sleeve set. It's very difficult to determine if a used engines bearings are still in spec, and how much life they have left.

Crankshaft pin. Before putting in a new rod, you definately need to make sure that the crankpin is not worn or out of round. If it is...that new rod will be toast pretty quick.

If I were buying a used engine. I would want to measure the crank pin. If it's okay, and I wanted to rebuild it I would replace the main engine bearing and the piston, sleeve and rod. That is still cost effective vs buying a new engine.
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Old 09-02-2008, 06:20 PM   #66
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Thanks guys, I'll weigh my options but it would just be a spare motor so if it cost too much, i won't bother.
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Old 09-02-2008, 08:46 PM   #67
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hi, will the novarossi part number: ART. 16603 fit a max SL3 MF tuned? also is this novarossi part the ceramic bearing version?

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Old 09-02-2008, 09:35 PM   #68
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anyone knows Max XL9 TQ using novarossi which based model? thanks
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Old 09-03-2008, 04:29 PM   #69
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anyone knows Max XL9 TQ using novarossi which based model? thanks
Plus 21 based, R7 Rod and 3 dots on the liner.
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Old 09-04-2008, 07:25 PM   #70
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35=21 Top end from the rod up. Massimo's crankcase is definitely his own. This engine is using the bearing sizes that the fabled "Kangaroo" uses. The bearings are light and so is the crankshaft. The work done to the sleeve could be consider marginal as well as the gains from this mod. No if ands or buts he "let the dog off its chain" in regards to the crank and crankcase.
Took 12 tanks on the bench before I put it in the car. On the final bench tank the simulated Fort"The Test Track to The World" Meyers runs exhibited EXTREMELY crisp acceleration.
I had previously been running Ninja power and as a result to remain competitive I was using a hot clutch in my MugenSeiki MRX-4,R or X.
Mugen four shoe system. Flyweights drilled to 4mm, clutch bell clearance set at .4mm, MSR/Jp/Mugen ultra hard spring set at 1.3mm or tighter.
I installed the XL9 in the car and set the spring tension at .8mm. This produced an almost "Electric" like drive with no bog and blowing PLENTY of smoke at 230 degs. for the temp gunners. I am running the car this Saturday to run more fuel through it and racing it on Sunday. So far I feel that I have received more than I have paid for. Thanks!
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Old 09-12-2008, 08:40 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MugenDrew View Post
35=21 Top end from the rod up. Massimo's crankcase is definitely his own. This engine is using the bearing sizes that the fabled "Kangaroo" uses. The bearings are light and so is the crankshaft. The work done to the sleeve could be consider marginal as well as the gains from this mod. No if ands or buts he "let the dog off its chain" in regards to the crank and crankcase.
Took 12 tanks on the bench before I put it in the car. On the final bench tank the simulated Fort"The Test Track to The World" Meyers runs exhibited EXTREMELY crisp acceleration.
I had previously been running Ninja power and as a result to remain competitive I was using a hot clutch in my MugenSeiki MRX-4,R or X.
Mugen four shoe system. Flyweights drilled to 4mm, clutch bell clearance set at .4mm, MSR/Jp/Mugen ultra hard spring set at 1.3mm or tighter.
I installed the XL9 in the car and set the spring tension at .8mm. This produced an almost "Electric" like drive with no bog and blowing PLENTY of smoke at 230 degs. for the temp gunners. I am running the car this Saturday to run more fuel through it and racing it on Sunday. So far I feel that I have received more than I have paid for. Thanks!
sound like you like the new bullet in your gun !!!! i like mines too . now put it in a pack and watch your eye's light up
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Old 09-24-2008, 02:04 PM   #72
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I have three race's on the engine now. It has forced set up changes on the chassis and I am having to change my driving style slightly to accommodate this new found power. This thing is a LIT MISSLE.
I am using the 2018 pipe and header combo, 8.5mm venturi and have not been anywhere near running out of fuel at the five minute mark. However it has not ran at the Fort, the Port or Kissimmee.
I was given some advise from Jim Rice and an Engineer at Timken Bearing regarding the Ceramics. When its cold and you start it, do not blip the throttle. The info I received from both party's is that these bearings are much easier to "skid" when cold which generates flat spots and causes early failure.
Yeah Captian...I'm packin HEAT
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Old 10-01-2008, 12:06 PM   #73
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Drew,
Thanks for the reports on the 9. I am looking at one of these for the up and coming events. Several of the Max drivers come to the Houston track to try some new things and the TQ9 really seems to perform well.. I witnessed it at GLC this year and will be sure to see more..
----one for me please----
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Old 10-07-2008, 01:29 PM   #74
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Removed...Unauthorized post...No direct linking to retail websites promoting product sales

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Old 10-07-2008, 02:09 PM   #75
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Kamikaze

3116 East Chapman Ave.
Orange, California 92869 USA.
714-997-8697

Available in Stock
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