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Old 09-28-2005, 09:24 PM   #16
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one more opinion there is more raw horsepower in the carefull alinement and contored polishing of the rotating mass than in nitro content..you have to finish the race to win not be the fastest car there that won't stay running or leans out after 15 mins in a 30 min main.. a good car and a constant running motor will make anyone look good..... but the best driver can't make a bad car or poorly tuned motor become a wining car\driver
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Old 09-29-2005, 01:18 PM   #17
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i hve not had a problem with that. ran 30min at fast n furious track steering servo broke at 52nd lap, eng temp 228 degrees when broke.#7 turbo plug.hey trickpony racing im the guy that ran the pink caddy body at lakeland ,i come do with austin,an abner from melbourne.did make to fort meyers.
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Old 09-29-2005, 01:59 PM   #18
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Hey whats up .. sorry to say i don't remember any pink caddy but im glad you made it to lakeland before it closed .. was a lot of traction this weekend at fort myers i don't think you would have wanted that caddy there.. i want to try the new stratis 3.1 theres a club race in three weekends like the 15' 16' try and come down and relaxe awhile
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Old 09-29-2005, 02:20 PM   #19
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Hey Trickpony, whats up. I have something for you to look at and maybe you can point me the right direction at race #2. I was running an MT12 that I modded this past weekend and I thought I had all kinds of bottom end and excellent mid, but lacked on the top just a tick. My clutch spring nut backed out in the beginning of the race and every time my car stopped, the engine stopped. I have had this problem in the past and I think I have it fixed now!But I need to know something about timing with the crank if you could help. Also, I ran a Caddy this past weekend(pic), I liked having the steering, but I think I took too much away from the rear traction. I too am looking forward to the Stratus for the next race. If not before, See you there!
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Old 09-29-2005, 02:44 PM   #20
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mt 12 .. you need a end mill to lightin the crank .. if you make that crank look like a new 11.5 mm nova crank it will shake like a disel truck... thats a round back crank with a small turbo scoop not really worth the bits and burrs... and the wrist pin/rod/piston weight is to heavy to turn any real RPM .... it's a great short track /club motor ... all thats needed for that to preform is to change the exhust port timing and a high oil content fuel.... there no hole to lube the front bearing drilled in the crank
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Old 09-29-2005, 04:58 PM   #21
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Maybe thats why the clutch spring nut backed off on me in the main Sunday. Hmm...I cut the crank down to look somthing like the one in the picture below.
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Old 09-29-2005, 05:40 PM   #22
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There is couple of reasons why MT12 is not turning very high RPM ( BTW, Dennice Richey was able to pull out veeeerrry good power from them in old days) is not that piston/conrod/pin assembly is too heavy (on .21 engines is much haevier and they turn up 43K). One of the reason is conrod ratio is too big for high RPM motors, mixture passage pretty small (7 mm and no meat to cut off) on cranck, timings are on stock is really small. As i mentioned,Dennis was pulling out very good RPM of them, he did modify them to real numbers. But the biigest problem is that engine is not strong enough to be: bored to 8mm hole in cranck, sleeve is sitting too high if you will try better conrod ratio (shorter conrod),our timings will be way advanced. it is really hard to make right balancing with that 26.5 mm conrod. Whatever you try to do with those motors-they will be never as high RPM as new versions. BTW, making turbo scoop specialy on MT12 will pull you out from right balancing further from right numbers.
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Old 09-30-2005, 01:18 AM   #23
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Yes, I have heard that from TrickPony too. But the engine is still fast as hell out of the hole and has all kinds of power, but it had backed the clutch nut off, so that could be a vibration issue.
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Old 09-30-2005, 06:51 AM   #24
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Balancing is very important specialy on RPMs after about 38-39 K.
If we keep in mind that clutch is engaging in range between 28-30 K so when we do balancing we should think only about dynamic balancing in range between 28-43 K RPM. It is not just to make static balancing with 49-52% weight piston/conrod assembly , it is also balancing between in length of cranck. So MT12 motors unfortunatly doesn't fit to requirements, even 11.5 mm cranck is not the best-12mm is much closer to ideal.
Now, to make the best bottom power out of the corner, we really need to know motor's power curve vs RPMs-some motor will give more speed out of the corner on 28 K, some at 30, some at 31-but this is already art of tunning.
For people who really wants to [lay with modding, I will sugest to find micro balancing instrument used by electrical motors repair shop. It will required to make a collet to be able attach cranck to that instrument, but if everything done right, it will be very helpfull to gain everything possible from engines.
Edward
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Old 10-03-2005, 06:05 PM   #25
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i have a novamax .12 and it seems it likes 2 run on the hot side. i am running it stock and with 20% white lightning. it like 2 run fast at 280 intill it overheats, but if the temp is really any lower like 230 it has like no power at all.like it wont even shift into 2nd gear if its that cool. any help?
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Old 10-03-2005, 06:27 PM   #26
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What plug and what head clearance are you running?
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Old 10-04-2005, 11:17 AM   #27
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Austin, that is one thing that I had problems with mine too. I found that you need to use "air seal" and seal everything on that engine. Then once you get it tuned, leave it alone! Check the O-rings in the low speed needle. If you find that they have any wear on them, replace them. Also, the pinch bar for the carb, that is important to seal the threads on it as well. Once I had sealed mine, the temps dropped from 280 to 230 and it ran great. One more thing, you need to replace the Con-rod on that engine after break-in and after every gallon, or you could pop it.
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Old 10-04-2005, 11:22 AM   #28
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back on track now, the Max Power MF engine. I just got one and I am in the process of breaking it in. I've idled it in and I am starting to lean it out. What is a good temp that others have been seeing? This engine is new, and I have turned the needles down 2 full turns on the high end just to get it to idle after turning the low end in 2 turns as well, Otherwise, it would just idle for about 2 seconds and when you tried to give it a little throttle, it would load up and die out. Does this seem about right for this engine.

One other thing, my friend has one of the same engines and he was going to sell it to me. I took it apart to inspect it and found that his sleeve appears to be a bone stock novarossi sleeve and when I look at mine, it has some very nice porting doen to it. Why would this be?
thanks
james
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Old 10-04-2005, 12:38 PM   #29
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rc foolz,

Dont be fooled by the look of the sleeve. If you purchased the MF model there is porting done. Dont expect to see extreme modifications done to the sleeve. The majority of the work is done to the crank/intake bore.

This is where Fantini comes through in a big way. The timing is everything on the engines.

As for the different look of the sleeves. Novarossi changed the casting on the sleeves.

As for 2 full turns in....that sounds VERY extreme. I actually open mine up a bit from stock. Check your idle screw. It may be WAY too low and flooding the engine at idle.

I would reset your needles to stock and crank up the idle a bit and see what happens. You should be running 180-210 on break in

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Old 10-04-2005, 12:48 PM   #30
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yes, my break-in tems are 165-185 and when it leans out and revs up just before the tank runs dry, around 200-210, and she is spitting oil.
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