Are you comparing a stock C6 to a Rody C5 or Rody C5/Rody C6 comparison? I'd swing for a stock C6 possibly.

The majority of my experience has been with "Rody" or "RC" motors. We've only used one "Circuit" (read stock) or "CC" motor. The CC is a solid motor - I don't think you would be disappointed.

are there any rb dealers on the east coast any one ??

rich help me out

Jimmy, www.rcthunderhobbies.net

thanks pooh but i need a part

pooh web site will be nice when its done . tell danny good job

Hey Jimmie try:

East Coast
Robert Poage, Ashford Hobbies
[email protected]
(814) 364-9250

or

West Coast
Billie Bowerman, Speedworld Hobbies
www.speedworldraceway.com web
[email protected] e-mail


If you are having trouble with a specific item let me know - I'm sure I can "arrange" getting it to you. As you are aware I'm not a dealer :) - While RB USA sorts things out - I will facilitate for the on-road RB racing crowd.

thank's rich
i knew i can count on you

Last year at the Nationals in Cinci I sucked a plug on my new C6 Rody. It trashed the piston / sleeve.

Can you guys recommend the best way to get the Rody piston / sleeve / head button replaced? Which shops carry those kind of replacement parts, or will I have to wait for it to be ordered? Thanks in advance for the help
Greg

Try www.ashfordhobby.com

...Why did it suck a plug? I have a c6 also, and would like to avoid something like that!

Regards,
Steve

Well, I wish I knew for sure. I'm pretty sure it was because of wrong head clearance. When I got the motor and ran 30% Sidewinder in it, I put one head shim in to raise it up. It ran great for 1 gallon and looked new inside.

Rigth before the Nats I switched to a different fuel that was 25% and figured it was OK to remove that shim. Well, maybe it wasn't. My pit guy and I were fairly confident that it wasn't lean (but it was so noisy it was hard to tell). I went out on the track and blew a plug. Brought it back in and put a new plug in. Went out on the track and the motor went to crap. When I pulled it in and torn down the motor to see what was wrong, it was clear. The plug was trashed and the piston had a major gouge in the back side (by the exhause port).

I really need to learn the proper way to check deck height. Because guessing and trashing a $600 motor really sucks.

Check the cir-clip on the exhaust side of the wrist-pin - be sure the pig tail didn't break off and go through the motor. That might be the culprit -not the plug. Check the big bearing - be sure it's smooth - not gritty feeling. Remove the crank and feel it by hand.

Deck height isn't as scary as it sounds - if the plug is deformed add .005" There is no ideal height. You use the deck height as a way of timing the motor. The more aggressive the timing the better the bottom end -down side - you risk detonation. The later the timing the more top end - you do give up bottom end - and you can creat an absolute pig of a motor don't go to far.

safe bet would be .010 shim for every 5 % bump in nitro

just curious but has anyone heard of an S7 Europa? I was told that it was similar to the WS7

Maybe you are running too hot of plug or you did have too much compression and it was detonating. Either one can cause detonation and it will make all kinds of noise. Will burn plugs up too.

One thing is for sure, the gouge in the piston is not from deck height, it was the broken plug element that wedged between the piston and the exhaust port. I've had one completely snap a con-rod and piston this way before. That platinum element causes all kinds of damage. Hotter plugs tend to burn the element loose easier. I prefer to decrease the head shim and run a colder plug instead of running hot plugs.

good info..Rich!!
Hey Rich, what is up with Mr. Kimbrow using another engine other than My beloved RB's...Kimbrow was spotted at Vegas with a blue cooling heads :weird: :eek:

Besides ashford hobbies is there any other site as good as this one that sells internationaly(Puerto Rico)? Thanks for your help.

I hope someone could help me.
I have an RB C5 Rody (with the silver case) that I'm trying to replace the head button on it.

The manual shows part #01082. The picture of this shows two dots (exhaust indicators) side by side. The head I have shows the two dots on top of each other. The button I have also has a bevel in the combustion chamber (see pic).

I've looked up all of the C5 manuals and the C6 manuals on line, and cannot find a picture of the same head button I have.

Could someone please enlighten me? I've spent hours trying to find the correct one.

Thank you,
Steve

Someone has taken to your headbutton with a dremel. If you just go with the part # in the manual you will be fine. The mod to your head button is a waste of time anyway. All it does is drop compression, you are better off with an extra shim & at least the extra shim wont stuff up your squish band.

........Well, the 'dremel effect' was done by someone at RB, because I purchased the engine new.

It doesnt matter where the mod was done, it still doesnt work vey well. Just trying to help with your question. You can take the advise or leave it no big deal to me.

yes that is the right button for the engine but you can use the one from the black case rody c5 and it will work the same here's the parts number 01083/r
they where limited and they where done from a stock ( silver case )c5 tuned in to a rody with his name on the side . it has to have r after the part number

Thanks Captain,

that I can understand.

-Steve

Modded Head Button
 

I had a Rody C5 with the modded head button. The modification was done at the factory by Rody. Don't know whether it works or not.

any time :D

;)
Steve, captian is right...the non beveled button will work on your silver case the button you have is unique to the silver case Rody signatured. good luck finding it specially now that Sigma trading is gone. it gave that engine a broader range of power from top to bottom. I have both black and silver..My silver case Rody will smoke the black case anytime. try the new button and add 1mm shim from what you have as it is. and see what happens. good luck ;)

Hey guys, does anyone here have an RB Matrix, or know anything about it? I haven't heard much about it at all, and no one really runs RB where I race. Do you think it's a good engine? What about performance, how does it stack up against other high-end racing engines?

I will try that.

Thank you for the help!!

-Steve

Can anyone give me some instructions or point me in right direction on how to remove the piston and sleeve. I need to get my p/s pinched and I know there is a certain way the rb needs to be taken apart as to not break the piston skirt.

Thanks,
Chad

Raise the piston to the top of the cylinder before you remove the backing plate. Then after removing the backing plate, lower the piston back down. There are a few different methods for removing the sleeve. You can try rotating the piston and this may raise the sleeve enough to remove it. If it doesn't I lower the piston down and then put a zip tie in through the exhaust. Then I raise the piston up and that will normally raise the sleeve out of the case enough for you to remove it. Remove the sleeve, then take the conrod off the crankpin.

Double post..

Can anyone tell me how many head shims to use in the rb martix motor

I believe the rule of thumb is: 25%, run as is. 30%, add a .10 shim.

If you are using 30% you should have a total of .4mm shims under the head. The engine comes with .3mm stock. ;)

Glad to help.... :nod:

Still on the head shims, how do i change them according to the altitude. If i race at sea level what should be a good start point in head shims and also if i go race in a place which is 1000Meters (3280.83 feet)? Another question how should i change the head shims according to the Temperature/Humidity ?

Thanks in advance.

I almost forgot, i run 30%. (RB MATRIX ENGINE)

Steven, thanks for the info. The zip tie trick worked like a charm. Is there any trick to re-installing the p/s? I'm sending this one off to be pinched.

Anyone know where to get a p/s and conrod for a ws7? I want to freshen up my spare. Actually I have 3 conrods that fit good on one of my cranks. I have 2 that say 2 on the top and 03 on the bottom and the other one says 9 on the top and nothing on the bottom. What one is better?

Has anyone tried the JP 2031-H pipe on their Rody C6 in the past? I ran one at the Midwest Series race on mine and it seemed to work very well. I didn't have a 2018 to compare it to though.

I've also played around with the 2013 (non-conical header) and didn't care for it too much.

The 2031 (with short header) seemed to have very good bottom end and great fuel mileage. I do think I gave up a little on top end so I was just curious if anyone had experience with that combo. Thanks
Greg

Hello from France,
here's a little review of my new engine

RB V12 Rody RC EFRA

http://www.automodelisme.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=25560

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/624...tdekif9wb0.jpg