1LikesRB Engine Thread
03-23-2007, 09:12 AM
#331
Try www.ashfordhobby.com
...Why did it suck a plug? I have a c6 also, and would like to avoid something like that!
Regards,
Steve
...Why did it suck a plug? I have a c6 also, and would like to avoid something like that!
Regards,
Steve
03-23-2007, 11:52 AM
#332
Well, I wish I knew for sure. I'm pretty sure it was because of wrong head clearance. When I got the motor and ran 30% Sidewinder in it, I put one head shim in to raise it up. It ran great for 1 gallon and looked new inside.
Rigth before the Nats I switched to a different fuel that was 25% and figured it was OK to remove that shim. Well, maybe it wasn't. My pit guy and I were fairly confident that it wasn't lean (but it was so noisy it was hard to tell). I went out on the track and blew a plug. Brought it back in and put a new plug in. Went out on the track and the motor went to crap. When I pulled it in and torn down the motor to see what was wrong, it was clear. The plug was trashed and the piston had a major gouge in the back side (by the exhause port).
I really need to learn the proper way to check deck height. Because guessing and trashing a $600 motor really sucks.
Rigth before the Nats I switched to a different fuel that was 25% and figured it was OK to remove that shim. Well, maybe it wasn't. My pit guy and I were fairly confident that it wasn't lean (but it was so noisy it was hard to tell). I went out on the track and blew a plug. Brought it back in and put a new plug in. Went out on the track and the motor went to crap. When I pulled it in and torn down the motor to see what was wrong, it was clear. The plug was trashed and the piston had a major gouge in the back side (by the exhause port).
I really need to learn the proper way to check deck height. Because guessing and trashing a $600 motor really sucks.
03-23-2007, 01:24 PM
#333
Tech Master
Originally Posted by GMSchmidt
Well, I wish I knew for sure. I'm pretty sure it was because of wrong head clearance. When I got the motor and ran 30% Sidewinder in it, I put one head shim in to raise it up. It ran great for 1 gallon and looked new inside.
Rigth before the Nats I switched to a different fuel that was 25% and figured it was OK to remove that shim. Well, maybe it wasn't. My pit guy and I were fairly confident that it wasn't lean (but it was so noisy it was hard to tell). I went out on the track and blew a plug. Brought it back in and put a new plug in. Went out on the track and the motor went to crap. When I pulled it in and torn down the motor to see what was wrong, it was clear. The plug was trashed and the piston had a major gouge in the back side (by the exhause port).
I really need to learn the proper way to check deck height. Because guessing and trashing a $600 motor really sucks.
Rigth before the Nats I switched to a different fuel that was 25% and figured it was OK to remove that shim. Well, maybe it wasn't. My pit guy and I were fairly confident that it wasn't lean (but it was so noisy it was hard to tell). I went out on the track and blew a plug. Brought it back in and put a new plug in. Went out on the track and the motor went to crap. When I pulled it in and torn down the motor to see what was wrong, it was clear. The plug was trashed and the piston had a major gouge in the back side (by the exhause port).
I really need to learn the proper way to check deck height. Because guessing and trashing a $600 motor really sucks.
Deck height isn't as scary as it sounds - if the plug is deformed add .005" There is no ideal height. You use the deck height as a way of timing the motor. The more aggressive the timing the better the bottom end -down side - you risk detonation. The later the timing the more top end - you do give up bottom end - and you can creat an absolute pig of a motor don't go to far.
04-10-2007, 11:01 PM
#336
Originally Posted by GMSchmidt
Well, I wish I knew for sure. I'm pretty sure it was because of wrong head clearance. When I got the motor and ran 30% Sidewinder in it, I put one head shim in to raise it up. It ran great for 1 gallon and looked new inside.
Rigth before the Nats I switched to a different fuel that was 25% and figured it was OK to remove that shim. Well, maybe it wasn't. My pit guy and I were fairly confident that it wasn't lean (but it was so noisy it was hard to tell). I went out on the track and blew a plug. Brought it back in and put a new plug in. Went out on the track and the motor went to crap. When I pulled it in and torn down the motor to see what was wrong, it was clear. The plug was trashed and the piston had a major gouge in the back side (by the exhause port).
I really need to learn the proper way to check deck height. Because guessing and trashing a $600 motor really sucks.
Rigth before the Nats I switched to a different fuel that was 25% and figured it was OK to remove that shim. Well, maybe it wasn't. My pit guy and I were fairly confident that it wasn't lean (but it was so noisy it was hard to tell). I went out on the track and blew a plug. Brought it back in and put a new plug in. Went out on the track and the motor went to crap. When I pulled it in and torn down the motor to see what was wrong, it was clear. The plug was trashed and the piston had a major gouge in the back side (by the exhause port).
I really need to learn the proper way to check deck height. Because guessing and trashing a $600 motor really sucks.
One thing is for sure, the gouge in the piston is not from deck height, it was the broken plug element that wedged between the piston and the exhaust port. I've had one completely snap a con-rod and piston this way before. That platinum element causes all kinds of damage. Hotter plugs tend to burn the element loose easier. I prefer to decrease the head shim and run a colder plug instead of running hot plugs.
04-20-2007, 06:54 PM
#337
Originally Posted by Rich Browne
Check the cir-clip on the exhaust side of the wrist-pin - be sure the pig tail didn't break off and go through the motor. That might be the culprit -not the plug. Check the big bearing - be sure it's smooth - not gritty feeling. Remove the crank and feel it by hand.
Deck height isn't as scary as it sounds - if the plug is deformed add .005" There is no ideal height. You use the deck height as a way of timing the motor. The more aggressive the timing the better the bottom end -down side - you risk detonation. The later the timing the more top end - you do give up bottom end - and you can creat an absolute pig of a motor don't go to far.
Deck height isn't as scary as it sounds - if the plug is deformed add .005" There is no ideal height. You use the deck height as a way of timing the motor. The more aggressive the timing the better the bottom end -down side - you risk detonation. The later the timing the more top end - you do give up bottom end - and you can creat an absolute pig of a motor don't go to far.
Hey Rich, what is up with Mr. Kimbrow using another engine other than My beloved RB's...Kimbrow was spotted at Vegas with a blue cooling heads
04-26-2007, 06:17 PM
#338
Tech Rookie
Besides ashford hobbies is there any other site as good as this one that sells internationaly(Puerto Rico)? Thanks for your help.
04-26-2007, 09:27 PM
#339
I hope someone could help me.
I have an RB C5 Rody (with the silver case) that I'm trying to replace the head button on it.
The manual shows part #01082. The picture of this shows two dots (exhaust indicators) side by side. The head I have shows the two dots on top of each other. The button I have also has a bevel in the combustion chamber (see pic).
I've looked up all of the C5 manuals and the C6 manuals on line, and cannot find a picture of the same head button I have.
Could someone please enlighten me? I've spent hours trying to find the correct one.
Thank you,
Steve
I have an RB C5 Rody (with the silver case) that I'm trying to replace the head button on it.
The manual shows part #01082. The picture of this shows two dots (exhaust indicators) side by side. The head I have shows the two dots on top of each other. The button I have also has a bevel in the combustion chamber (see pic).
I've looked up all of the C5 manuals and the C6 manuals on line, and cannot find a picture of the same head button I have.
Could someone please enlighten me? I've spent hours trying to find the correct one.
Thank you,
Steve
04-26-2007, 10:13 PM
#340
Someone has taken to your headbutton with a dremel. If you just go with the part # in the manual you will be fine. The mod to your head button is a waste of time anyway. All it does is drop compression, you are better off with an extra shim & at least the extra shim wont stuff up your squish band.
04-26-2007, 10:37 PM
#341
Originally Posted by soc123_au
Someone has taken to your headbutton with a dremel. If you just go with the part # in the manual you will be fine. The mod to your head button is a waste of time anyway. All it does is drop compression, you are better off with an extra shim & at least the extra shim wont stuff up your squish band.
........Well, the 'dremel effect' was done by someone at RB, because I purchased the engine new.
04-27-2007, 05:53 AM
#343
Originally Posted by bsmooth
I hope someone could help me.
I have an RB C5 Rody (with the silver case) that I'm trying to replace the head button on it.
The manual shows part #01082. The picture of this shows two dots (exhaust indicators) side by side. The head I have shows the two dots on top of each other. The button I have also has a bevel in the combustion chamber (see pic).
I've looked up all of the C5 manuals and the C6 manuals on line, and cannot find a picture of the same head button I have.
Could someone please enlighten me? I've spent hours trying to find the correct one.
Thank you,
Steve
I have an RB C5 Rody (with the silver case) that I'm trying to replace the head button on it.
The manual shows part #01082. The picture of this shows two dots (exhaust indicators) side by side. The head I have shows the two dots on top of each other. The button I have also has a bevel in the combustion chamber (see pic).
I've looked up all of the C5 manuals and the C6 manuals on line, and cannot find a picture of the same head button I have.
Could someone please enlighten me? I've spent hours trying to find the correct one.
Thank you,
Steve
they where limited and they where done from a stock ( silver case )c5 tuned in to a rody with his name on the side . it has to have r after the part number
04-27-2007, 07:16 AM
#344
Originally Posted by captian
yes that is the right button for the engine but you can use the one from the black case rody c5 and it will work the same here's the parts number 01083/r
they where limited and they where done from a stock ( silver case )c5 tuned in to a rody with his name on the side . it has to have r after the part number
they where limited and they where done from a stock ( silver case )c5 tuned in to a rody with his name on the side . it has to have r after the part number
that I can understand.
-Steve
04-27-2007, 07:41 AM
#345
Modded Head Button
I had a Rody C5 with the modded head button. The modification was done at the factory by Rody. Don't know whether it works or not.
