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Old 03-25-2013, 06:03 PM   #1
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Default How do I know if tuned pipe is bad??

Hi. I've been suffering from tuning my brand new(supposedly.. I got it from a guy here) engine(O.S. 12xz) for a month and now even with different engine, I can't seem to tune the engine. This begs to a question of what if the tuned pipe is bad?
I'm saying this for a reason because the guy who sold the engine and pipe to me(actually the entire NT1 with engine and pipe installed claiming it's ready to go) stupidly left a plastic part between manifold and pipe and I found out accidentally later on after days of trying to tune the engine. It had been melted severely by the time I found it out. It seems to be a round object like a thin membrane that blocks the passage. So I think the plastic part might have damaged the tuned pipe as I kept trying the engine. Is that at all possible? I don't even know how the inside of the pipe generally looks like. I understand the pipe regulates the air amount and pressure but I just don't understand how in the world is it so difficult to tune two different engines in the same way in a brand new car? It leads to manifold and tuned pipe problem. Please advise.
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:13 PM   #2
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prob need to see a picture of what your talking about. the engine comes with dust covers over the exhaust and intake sometimes, and the pipe might also come with caps. considering how expensive os pipes are it wouldnt surprise me.
but, it wouldnt go together if the caps were on, and your motor wouldnt start.

its possibly just a worn gasket. a little rubber/silicon seal that goes in the manifold and stetches over the pipe like a oring. you would have to take pics but i dont think a pipe can be killed unless you dent it, crush it, crack it or break off the stinger. they are pretty simple. just two chambers welded together. your motor would still run with a damage pipe, you just wouldnt get that "boost" the pipe provides, or it would not work as intended.
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:25 PM   #3
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prob need to see a picture of what your talking about. the engine comes with dust covers over the exhaust and intake sometimes, and the pipe might also come with caps. considering how expensive os pipes are it wouldnt surprise me.
but, it wouldnt go together if the caps were on, and your motor wouldnt start.

its possibly just a worn gasket. a little rubber/silicon seal that goes in the manifold and stetches over the pipe like a oring. you would have to take pics but i dont think a pipe can be killed unless you dent it, crush it, crack it or break off the stinger. they are pretty simple. just two chambers welded together. your motor would still run with a damage pipe, you just wouldnt get that "boost" the pipe provides, or it would not work as intended.
Here are pictures. I forgot to set a new ride height after making some changes so the pipe got dinged and scratched pretty bad.
Attached Thumbnails
How do I know if tuned pipe is bad??-img_2666%5B1%5D.jpg   How do I know if tuned pipe is bad??-img_2695.jpg   How do I know if tuned pipe is bad??-img_2694.jpg  
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:32 PM   #4
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not sure what that would be. not somthing id expect to see in the exhaust.. unless its a carb reducer? almost looks like it with the knurled edges. shouldnt be anything in the exhaust but the manifold, pipe, and two rubber gaskets. one on the motor side, one on the pipe side.

ps, that pipe is definitely dented. though seems to be after the resonance chamber MOSTLY. wouldnt be a bad idea to replace the pipe
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:44 PM   #5
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not sure what that would be. not somthing id expect to see in the exhaust.. unless its a carb reducer? almost looks like it with the knurled edges. shouldnt be anything in the exhaust but the manifold, pipe, and two rubber gaskets. one on the motor side, one on the pipe side.

ps, that pipe is definitely dented. though seems to be after the resonance chamber MOSTLY. wouldnt be a bad idea to replace the pipe
I really hope new pipe would solve the problem..
The plastic has the knurls you talked about but it was not a reducer. When I took apart the exhaust, it was in the inner lining of pipe to manifold and it smelled a typical burned plastic badly. The guy was stupid enough to leave it there. I can tell just by the amount of burned plastic that it was a membrane or something that blocked the exhaust almost completely.
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:53 PM   #6
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I have no idea what that could be, but im new to nitro somewhat. only owned novarossi pipes so far which dont have any plastic in them anywhere.

looking at the new os i cant see any plastic either



not that the plastic peice is out though, how do the rubber seals look? does the engine run?
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:56 PM   #7
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Default Engine/Exhaust Pipe

From what you describe the pipe is clogged with something and it is damaged. I would not use it anymore.
The proper pipe for the engine is expensive but very effective. What I would recommend is to sort out the operation of the engine with a lower cost tuned exhaust pipe. I race my OS TZ engine with the Solar 1/10 Torque exhaust pipe, its $40, but there are others brands available. This approach should get ou up and running, then purchase an OS pipe for your engine afterward.
Question - will you be testing this car on a dusty parking lot or race track?
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:04 PM   #8
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have you run your os with a nova pipe to compare? i was really looking for the os pipe but havent been able to find a lot of info on them as everyone seems to run novarossi.
I have a TZ as well.
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:56 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by CurveTracer View Post
From what you describe the pipe is clogged with something and it is damaged. I would not use it anymore.
The proper pipe for the engine is expensive but very effective. What I would recommend is to sort out the operation of the engine with a lower cost tuned exhaust pipe. I race my OS TZ engine with the Solar 1/10 Torque exhaust pipe, its $40, but there are others brands available. This approach should get ou up and running, then purchase an OS pipe for your engine afterward.
Question - will you be testing this car on a dusty parking lot or race track?
I totally agree with you,, well, I hope that I could say you're totally right since what you said is what I'm only suspecting..
I will take your advise and get the cheap exhaust pipe first. I'm just frustrated because no LHS sells proper nitro parts. They say they could special-order but that's what I can do. I'll update you guys.
I'm pretty serious about RC cars. I won't run this expensive and beautiful car just to bash. I go to local Metrolink station race track. The track is pretty loose but the guy blows and sprays the track pretty well. I just got JP Eagle black TL-3 motor. That tells you many things I believe.
I appreciate your help!
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:01 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by valk View Post
have you run your os with a nova pipe to compare? i was really looking for the os pipe but havent been able to find a lot of info on them as everyone seems to run novarossi.
I have a TZ as well.
As you can see, I barely have any experience in nitro. Like you are, I've been an electric guy for a while. The ofna pipe was the only one I owned and it seems to have damaged permenantly thanks to the guy who sold it to me!
I'll get another one to try out. The first engine I got from the guy was sent back to O.S. about 1 week ago and they told me that they just got it. They'll find problems in the engine(If there's any and if it's not the pipe), and let me know. Now I have Eagle TL-3 modified. It should be screaming by now but it's sleeping...
BTW, Valk, I just bought Serpent S411 Eryx. How do you like your serpent?
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:26 PM   #11
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pretty hard to beat the price of the rbtuning combo amain sells. you get the pipe, compatible manifold and all hardware for under $100. some of those cheap kyosho pipes might work too.. if your manifold is good, you could get a novarossi too. i run a 2630 on mine, but its dented and probably not working properly.
ill be upgrading to either a 2660 or grab the os 1060pipe combo.

as for the s411.. its an easy car to drive for most part. i wish it was a little easier to work on. still has slop.. but once you sort all that out its a beautiful car. not as blingy as the competition. its like audi.. understated but effective. I probably would have gone associated or similar but i got both my serpends for a good price so im happy with them. though $489 is steep when $399 is just as good if you know what i mean.

enjoy your nt1. I upgraded from an ntc3 to this car and i have to say.. much much much much better in every way.. though expensive to keep in one peice. dont spend money on any upgrades until you dont hit things.
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:14 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
Hi. I've been suffering from tuning my brand new(supposedly.. I got it from a guy here) engine(O.S. 12xz) for a month and now even with different engine, I can't seem to tune the engine. This begs to a question of what if the tuned pipe is bad?
I'm saying this for a reason because the guy who sold the engine and pipe to me(actually the entire NT1 with engine and pipe installed claiming it's ready to go) stupidly left a plastic part between manifold and pipe and I found out accidentally later on after days of trying to tune the engine. It had been melted severely by the time I found it out. It seems to be a round object like a thin membrane that blocks the passage. So I think the plastic part might have damaged the tuned pipe as I kept trying the engine. Is that at all possible? I don't even know how the inside of the pipe generally looks like. I understand the pipe regulates the air amount and pressure but I just don't understand how in the world is it so difficult to tune two different engines in the same way in a brand new car? It leads to manifold and tuned pipe problem. Please advise.
It seems a reducer. A shim with OD to fit the manifold and a smaller ID. You can put it between the manifold and the muffler. It takes away the most of the power. It is an emergency solution I used under the rain with my 2WD pan car. Of course the engine suffers a lot with that, it overheats a lot.
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:06 PM   #13
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It seems a reducer. A shim with OD to fit the manifold and a smaller ID. You can put it between the manifold and the muffler. It takes away the most of the power. It is an emergency solution I used under the rain with my 2WD pan car. Of course the engine suffers a lot with that, it overheats a lot.
So people do that because of cold temp?? I just don't see the point of doing that.
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:09 PM   #14
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So I'm pickinng up a new pipe and manifold tomorrow night locally. I'll let you know guys what happens.
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Old 03-27-2013, 02:48 AM   #15
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So people do that because of cold temp?? I just don't see the point of doing that.
no. you clog the exhaust with the reducer, cut the most of the power and that's it. sometimes when it's raining you gotta be creative if you don't wanna go home.
buy a new pipe, by the way.
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