The 35 plus .21 is OK on the bottom but it sings at the mid to top rpm range as long as the engine is properly tuned. This engine will perform very well at the mid to large size tracks. This engine does not have the torque as some of the premium 7 port engines do, so to compensate for that is to lower the 1st pinion to 15 tooth and 2nd with 19th tooth. Make adjustment on the spur gears to go bigger or smaller depending on the track size. 9886 is a great pipe for the 35 plus, you'll like it! One more thing to try is to use harder clutch springs to assist on the slight weaker power delivery on the low rpm range. Overall, the 9 port 35 plus .21 is a great engine from Novarossi. However, if you want engines that will give you the power from the bottom to the top then a 7 port rally or engines like a Kappo, 7T, 7T rally Kangaroo, or offroad engines such as a Bonito or a Roma will be some of the excellent choices for these GT cars.

The number one message for people to take home when running these GT cars is that ANY good quality and reliable engines from the Novarossi or any other brand is very competitive. Many racers who is new to this class will soon find out the beauty of this class IS NOT ABOUT WHO HAS THE FASTEST ENGINE or DEEPEST POCKET in order to podium. To podium in this awesome GT class one must practice to drive well at a consistent level, learn the overall setup of his/her car (clutch tuning, engine tuning, pipe/header, proper gearing, etc.).

As part of the general rules for this class, one must run rubber tires, shaft-driven, standard clutch (no centax clutch allowed). Because of these rules anyone from 1/8 scale offroad or onroad can run their offroad or onroad engines and be very competitive. In addition, anyone who is looking for a low buget but great performance and reliable engine can pick up a Nova 5T basic sport, a Nova 7T basic sport and he/she will be amazed how competitive these engines can be comparing to a high dollar onroad engine.

I hope the message above make sense to folks who race in this great GT class that many others and I love so much.


Lets continue to work together and grow this awesome GT8 (Super GT) class in 2013 and beyond!!!


Andy Liu "Flyin' Hawaiian"

Guys i have two choises in my mind about replacing with a bigger head.
The first one as a brand new condition is a RB Junior 9
and my second thought which is in used condition is a RB L2C magnesium
What is your opinion?
First of all are they compatible with Nova Basic crankcase?

http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/2977/img2532t.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

If magnesium did the trick then most manufacturers did keep on using them, today there isn't an engine sold with a magnesium head. These heads have a lower heat transfer capacity so stay away from them.

Ok, i got it ;)
What about the other one and it's compatibility?

My dear friends i am confused about the glow plug of N21-7T.
At the site of Nova, under specs it is recommended C6TF.
The engine was delivered,brand new, included a C7TF.
After some reading around the net i found similar engines running a C8TGH.
I have also in my bag one C6TGF.
After all that i am confused about my choises.
Should i go for the break in with C6TGF or C7TF?
After at that i will go on by using C8TGH?
The temperature here in Greece is about 5-35 Celsius

Run 1-2 liters with the C7TF. Then switch to the C8TGH for the rest of your running.

ok so i read all pages and i see that the 9886 is good for gt on novas
as i tried a 9901 and 086 on the 21-7 fms and it runs strong
what other pipe is good for 35 plus 21 or 21-7t/21-7r7/kappo/rally ?
and what about the os xz-r? what pipe are people running on this?
i have 2050,2060. maybe 2090? or a 2070 with what header?

I like the 9886 for both my kangaroo and my XZR speed, still playing with headers but last time out i used a short header and it was nice.

My dear friends i have to write down about the progress of N21-7T on a Rally game.
Well after the break in of the engine, the temperatures were about 100 celsius with an ambient temperature 20 celcius and without a body on the model.Also the HSN was still at the reach side of mixture.
As you can understand it wasn't a good sign so i bought a head of Fioroni compatible with Nova and gave it a try.
The results of the new were unbelievable but i also get confused.
The temperature at the glow plug was about 70 C and i had to lean out the HSN by a total turn in to get about 100 C. The confused is that another temperature sensor which is hooked up at the side of the crankcase gave me 118 C at the same moment. I know that this sensor gives smaller temps than the real ones so you can imagine what it could be the real sensor. On the other hand when i leaned it out i saw that the engined cleaned out at the high RPM without bogging of less fuel and i still had some smoke form the exaust tip.
What is your opinion of all this? :eek::confused:

I just installed and tuned that same engine at 235* with the stock head it runs like a champ! Dont be as concerned with the temps just make sure you have a steady stream of light smoke behind it and you will be fine for the most part. theoretically with a larger head you can run llean but need to be carefull with that because you can get to the point where the temps are perfect but you dont have the proper lubrication and it will die. only use temps for a reference point. here is that engine in a GT:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jULsqCQlJBI

Dear friend thank you for your responce but the head that you show us at the video is not the stock head for N21 7T. If you didn't had problems with temps why did you replaced the stock one?

Edit: just now i realised that you are talking about N21 R7. The subject of this post is a N21 7T on road engine on a rally game car

Your right, I am sorry! the onroad heads are too small for GT cars they overheat, If you dont change it than you are forced to run the engine really rich in order to not damage it. If you do change it tune for around 230* which would be 300* with the on road head. IF you tune for 260+ with the large head the engine will be too lean.

Engine cooling is also affected by the amount of air actually flowing and reaching the head’s fins. Things like body design, hole location, airflow extraction after the fact, also add to the equation and are often overlooked by many people too. :tire:

I am looking for a glow plug other than Nova. I am disapointed from the life of them.
I run in my engine about 2 litres of RB fuel 25% with about 15%oil for breaking in and i have already replaced two glow plugs. The strange is that the coil of plug is there and it has still a resistance when i measure it throught a multimeter but it can't fire up the engine.
When i put a new glow plug everything work fine for some ml of fuel and then i had the same symptoms. The glow plugs that i used was C7TF and C8TGH.
Now i run by using one RB 7 turbo CP-02 . It hasn't run a lot of fuel till now but i am afraid that it will have the same luck since RB plugs are the same with Nova's.
I found at the forum that i could try also Sirio,GRP Picco and O'Donnell.
But it wasn't clear the models of them.
So my question is what are the corespondive plugs of a Nova C8TGH? Also the colder plug from O'donnell is the 99T. Is it quite cold for a N21 7T or it is for buggy engines?

'plug problem'
 

Xontroi.......

I'm curious as to what you are using for the power source for your 'glow igniter'. Is it fully charged? I had some 'plug issues' when I went from our track altitude near 4500' ASL to L.A., closer to sea level. While 'chasing the tune' through the excess heat I incurred, my plug got 'unhappy' and taxed my igniter' to the point I had to go to my more recently charged 'backup'. After I got an excess heat indication on my plug, I did change it but more of my problem was in the igniter power making me think I had another issue. I kept the same heat range plug but found the richer tune I needed for the engine to be happy.

Jerry my igniter is a Prolux Lipo-glow and it is fully gharged.The indicator of condition of the glow plug shows that everything is ok. It is strange because having the plug on my hand as brand new i saw that it glows normally and after the problem appeared it didn't glow. I just could feel a little heat in my fingers.
At the same moment another brand new plug glows normally.So it is not a case of the igniter. I was afraid of the bigger percentage of oil that was included at the fuel. So i turned down at the normal percentage of oil.
At least the break in procedure is done and the engine is properly tuned.
I didn't change the place where i run my model and i believe it is properly tuned. The temperatures looks perfect at my tempgun. Never exceed the
95 C at the base of the glow plug and the 105 at the side of the crankcase.
The lowervalues at the head are thanks to a bigger head of Fioroni.
By the way i hope with a normal tuned engine nowafter i won't have problem with my plugs in the future.
But just in case i would like to now the models of plugs you use as an alternative of T8CGH

LM Based on/road plugs imo is all I use. I was very tired of getting a bad nova plug.

This is the only reliable source in the USA that I can find that keeps them in stock.:nod:

Remember to buy the ON/ROAD plugs

Here is a link
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/index....a&filter_id=90


.

Excuse me but please could you define which ones are in LM group and what numbers should they be? i mean coresponding to the C8TGH as far as the coldness

LM is the manufacturer of many plugs, Sirio/Werks/Orion and others...

As hot/cold 6 is med 7 is cold. I use both

When it is hot out and I am running 25/30% I run the 7

The link above show 6=med 7=Cold remember to buy the onroad plug not off.

Ok i got it. Thank you the infos. Something more, what about O'donnel plugs?
Is 99T ok for onroad engines?

It sounds like you are running the engine too lean too fast during the break-in. We have a Nova C9TGH plug which will be stronger/tougher but we don't recommend it for the break-in process. The C8TGH should last the entire break-in (1 gallon). Going to another brand plug that is colder and harder to break is ok but what ends up happening a lot is that people run the engine too lean and damage the piston so be careful.

if the plug is still showing resistance then it is going to be a issue with your igniter.....You may not have enough juice to burn off the contamination from the high oil fuel..........even if your ignitor is reading full it may not have enough pop to heat up the heavy wired #8 plug once its contaminated by oil residue.......

Ok i understand and thank you for your advices but please let me remind that the i never had higher temps than 100-110 Celsius and in addition the coil of the plug remains shinny and well fitted and not grey and distorted. So i believe it wasn't lean. Also i had plenty of fuel coming out of the pipe.
The same plug that didn't glow in my hands and right after one hit on the table it glows brilliant as normal. By the way i will follow your advice and check also with another igniter.
But what could be more powerful than a lipo sourced igniter?
http://www.prolux.com.tw/exec/produc...-FEATURES&lg=E

We just use a normal low-tech NiMH Hotshot. Charge it every day (or two).

Ok thank you.I will give a chance to my previous igniter but i don't hope too much.
Someone could give me the information about O'donnell 99T? Is it as cold as C8TGH or not?

From my experience 99 is like a nova 7 and 97 is like nova 6
Close but not exact

On a different note ...
What pipe and header is best for Kappo ?
9953?
9986?
9901?
Short or long header?

In a GT? On the Kappo Rally, we use the 41019 header and the 51021 (9886) pipe.

I am in the process of purchasing a ofna dm1 and I would like to know what is the best bang for the buck motor and pipe to put on the car. I will be just parking lot racing no organized racing on a 150' x 75' track

LRP .28 can be had for as low as 160.00 .Its a beast

What should be used for a matching pipe

o86 ofna ?that would work imo

If you buy a .28 engine your going to beat the crap out of your drive train.

I don't think you can go wrong with most .21 engines, I just Know .28 will do more harm then good.

Wouldn't you rather have Nova quality anyways?:nod:

Nova sells a 5 port Turbo plug budget conscious engine with good power for less then $200 Novarossi N21-5T .21 5-Port turbo Engine

Here is a link. I know at least 5 people who have run that engine.

http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=9178


If you can afford a few dollars more here is another good engine.
Novarossi Kangaroo Rally .21 7 Port Trubo Steel Bearing
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=5373

.;)

After you stay with it for a season, and want more power come back we can help steer you to MORE :)

.

I want to share my experience with you. My previous engine was a LRP 28 and now i have a Nova N21-7T.
At LRP i did everything to get more RPM in order to be pleased for rally game performance.I replaced both of it's bearings with Boca ceramics, change the head with a turbo head from Losi 454 and throw away the pull starter by install a normal backplate after grinding the pin of the crankshaft. All this gave me some more RPM. The performance was acceptable and the car especially when it gets in the second gear was a rocket with plenty of bottom power.
The cons were that ,as above noted, the drive drain was stressed a lot with a lot of wear at the pins and the cups of diffs. The most serious was that this engine "drinks" a lot as a German drinks beers ;)

Now running a N21-7T by just replacing the bearings with ceramics i can say that indeed the bottom end is less than a LRP but the more RPMs you can get with another ratio at your gearbox will give the same smile and less consumption at fuel. With LRP the tank (my tank is 150ml) was empty at about 6,5 minutes and with N21 i think i can play, if not the double,at least 10 minutes.

At both engines i run a Dynamite 086 pipe

thanks for the info guys, i think i will go with the cheaper Nova for now or should i spend the extra $$? will i be happy with the cheaper one?

what pipe should i get to match?

thanks again.

The "cheap" Nova 7pt rally game is a beast! i have built, broken in and tuned a few over the past couple of months and its a great engine. 8:30s on a tank of VP! you cant beat it for 250 bux!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...qCQlJBI#t=127s

Thanks for all the info I'm going to order the nova 7pt. What header and pipe should I match that with?

The car in that vid was running the Ofna 086 and for 55.00 you cant beat it. Otherwise a Nova 9886 and short header also works well.

No doubt that rally game nova engine is a beast.Thats my next engine...

No doubt the Nova N21 R7 is a great engine for our GT car (its got great power from the bottom to the top). Like Marcus pointed out, it is only $250. :nod:

Hey guys i was wondering what type of clutch shoes you use with Gt cars.
I installed on mine one Trio variable of Fioroni with two aluminum and one carbon shoe but someone told me that it is better to use just carbon for on road use. They had better bite and don't heat so much the bell.
Is it true?