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Old 02-06-2005, 04:37 PM   #1
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Default breaking in the engine...

Any tips and what method is better for Break in? Also how do you tell where the TDC is?
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Old 02-06-2005, 04:52 PM   #2
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Default universal method...

Also, just thinking, is this true for all engines? - small, med, big clock? Thank you in advance...
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Old 02-07-2005, 12:36 AM   #3
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some say WOT style from the very beginning but i think it is safer to use the engine manufacturer recommendation. just follow the engine manual.

there's no one good method to do this...just follow the manual if u in doubt.
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Old 02-14-2005, 07:11 PM   #4
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hi, new to this forum, Ive got a new sts .28 waiting for me at the post office to pick up tomorrow. any recommendations for pipes, glow plugs, fuel, etc would be helpful, I plan on putting the motor in my xtm mammoth with a shortened chassis..

thanks for any tips, Ryan
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Old 03-06-2005, 01:35 PM   #5
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Old 03-07-2005, 12:57 AM   #6
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Default Re: breaking in the engine...

Originally posted by Tmachine
Any tips and what method is better for Break in? Also how do you tell where the TDC is?
TDC : when you turn the flywheel and it feel stuck, then it means the piston is going up to TDC point. You can see the piston movement from exhaust port.

Break in : aarghh.... so many theories and arguments. I'll go to stupid way: Open the main needle ( HSN ) 2 turns and low speed needle ( LSN ) 1 turn, and let it running idle for 4 tanks continuously. After that I close the LSN back to original setting and bring the car to the track and start running it for another 3 tanks by closing the HSN gradually until I get the perfect setting.

After I have done the break in period, I open ONLY the engine's piston and sleeve and wash out any break in residue ( gunk, thin metal ). Use can you nitro fuel to wash out the internal parts. Pay attention to clean the crankcase housing, crankshaft and bearings.
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Old 03-07-2005, 04:08 AM   #7
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yes, plenty of theories out there to play around with. but there are a few fundamentally same ideas floating about which makes perfect sense (josh cyrul's break in method is pretty near ideal IMO).

1. every engine is different; meaning each have their own needle settings. counting out many turns out will only give ball park to start an engine. also 2 turns out high speed and 1 turn out low speed is NOT a ball park figure for every engine. case in point: most novarossi's will run over 4 turns out and from my experience the new traxxas engines run over 3 to 3 1/2 turns for best starting (here in New England anyways). when in doubt check with a manufacturer resource for correct base setting.

2. break in is about allowing the parts to fit. letting it idle for numerous tanks is a sure fire way to decreasing engine life. RCCA covered this topic very well, so i wont get into it.

whatever method you use, keep in mind again that break in allows for parts to mesh and fit. preparation is important and you should take apart a new engine to clean it out and make sure there is no scraps left over from manufacturing. temperature gauge is your best friend as it will show if you are running too hot or too cold. as long as you are not going to the extreme (babying too much, or not babying your engine enough) you should be ok.
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Old 03-07-2005, 11:20 PM   #8
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This is new school engine break- in. I've used it and everything great.

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Old 03-18-2005, 09:35 AM   #9
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Engine Tempering & Engine Breakin
Reprinted From S-Grid with Stephen Bess's permission
How is that "new school?" That's pretty much the oldest one around, low-speed driving with full cooling in between tanks.

Even 20 years ago we (or I, or the group of fliers I hung out with) didn't "idle" through any tanks. You always want to break in rich, and under load, unless you're brave enough to try Josh's radical method. But even then it's supposed to be so rich it doesn't go "ping."
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Old 03-20-2005, 06:49 PM   #10
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I used Josh's WOT method on my LRP and it is still going strong,

Best thing about that method is you don't have to spend a day breaking the motor in.

Worst thing about this method is having to use 2 fingers on the throttle so I wouldn't let go, the hardest thing I have had to do is pull full throttle on a brand new motor, although it is running so rich that it hardly revs
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Old 03-20-2005, 11:17 PM   #11
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It's not cooling down between tanks, it's between getting the engine up to temperature.
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Old 03-21-2005, 01:16 AM   #12
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I have used Josh's method on my NSR5, engine still has plenty of compression after 4 races. Will not hesitate to use the samel method on my next engine.

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Old 03-21-2005, 02:48 PM   #13
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Default WOT Method

I've also used Josh Cyrul's method on the engines in two cars i have. One has a Novarossi and the other an LRP. Both have exceptional HP and plenty of pinch.

I also don't believe I need to be wasting my time in the breakin cycle by driving around a parking lot.

In the end it's a personal thing and you need to be happy with the method you choose. The only thing is i don't recomend the Josh method to a newbie.
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Old 03-21-2005, 08:19 PM   #14
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Default break-in

If you don't have all day to break in your engine, Buy a Palmaris brb p/s set and you'll be racing in in three tanks. first tank full run at 190 degree, second tank full drive on track half throttle or so and the third tank you can race tune and your go to go for three, four or five gallons later you will still be running. oh yeah don't forget the airfilter lol!
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Old 03-22-2005, 02:50 AM   #15
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Default idling & WOT method

i've tried both methods and everything is fine....

anyway like the WOT method better...more aggrasive
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