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Old 07-20-2006, 08:53 PM   #1321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thunderbt3
Weird problem:

I was cleaning my car the other day and took the air filter off. I noticed the carb was all the way shut. Not even the normal slight crack in order it to idle. I finished cleaning the car and installed the engine, started it and sat there idling fine. I bliped the throttle and everything sounds normal. When I open the carb to a slight crack, the engine is running too fast. The idle screw does work as normal. I checked the carb for leaks and cracks on the insulator and nothing. Checked the o-rings on the carb restrictor and they were fine.

Any suggestions?

sounds like you possibly have an air leak from somewhere....you can spray some carb cleaner around the areas of the motor if motor shuts off when carb cleaner hits certain spot then that is where your leak is...try that ...
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Old 07-20-2006, 08:57 PM   #1322
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Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
Hey Robert, got my sleeve today in the mail. The instruction says to use an epoxy to glue the sleeve onto the carb. What kind of epoxy did you use?

Dom

I used JB Hope i dont have prob with it.....
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Old 07-21-2006, 08:02 PM   #1323
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I was going to use some 15 min, epoxy that I had but I noticed that the temp was only good to 180 deg so I had to use the JB weld 4 min stuff. It is good to 300 deg., the JB that takes 15 hours to cure is good to 600 deg.
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Old 08-03-2006, 03:16 PM   #1324
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Gentlemen:

I finally bit the bullet and bought me an EB-modded 12TZ. However my question is. Should I go with the Skyline pipe or the RD-Logics turbo 3 with the re-inforced niple?

Also when I got my engine I realized I ordered the 5-Port as opposed to the 3-port. Am I in for some trouble with the 5-port? I hear they eat more fuel and plugs. I just want to be able to run fast off course but keep the pitting to minimum.
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Old 08-03-2006, 04:08 PM   #1325
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Originally Posted by SasonRC
Gentlemen:

I finally bit the bullet and bought me an EB-modded 12TZ. However my question is. Should I go with the Skyline pipe or the RD-Logics turbo 3 with the re-inforced niple?

Also when I got my engine I realized I ordered the 5-Port as opposed to the 3-port. Am I in for some trouble with the 5-port? I hear they eat more fuel and plugs. I just want to be able to run fast off course but keep the pitting to minimum.
If your motor is tuned properly, you won't blow plugs anymore then you would with a 3-port... As for eating up fuel... The more power produced, the more fuel you burn... Remember though, that just because a motor is 5 or even a 7-port, that does not mean the motor will be faster then a 3-port race motor... That's for another thread... The new Skyline tuned pipe will work very well with that motor... If you can get your hands on the OS-Speed tuned pipe or even a Sirio pipe... Your motor will be a Missle!!!

RC_Alan
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Old 08-03-2006, 08:08 PM   #1326
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Thanks RC_alan, I meant to order the 3 port but for some reason I was an idiot adn did not pay attention to my order. Anyhow I am going to stick with the 5 port.

A lot of places are out of stock with these tow pipes.

Does anyone know exactly which OS tuned pipe model we are talking about. I see the 1040 SC left side is that the one?

thanks again for the suggestions
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Old 08-08-2006, 09:14 PM   #1327
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Well, I shot motor cleaner on the carb retaining bolt and it pretty much instantly killed the engine. I took the carb out and it has horizontal crack in the area of the retaining bolt. For those of you who have replaced the thermo sleeve, how do you get get it off? I dont want to warp aluminum by grabbing it with pliers.

If I epoxy a new one on with JB Weld, how would I be able to get it off the next time it cracks?

Thanks,
Dave
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Old 08-13-2006, 06:42 PM   #1328
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Guys!
my dust cover is all dirty of oil and sand.
This can suggest a broke o-ring? I had suffered problems with the carburation, after the straight line. I stop pull the trigger the rpm don't return to idle immediately, it's takes approximately 10 seconds. I tried hard to tune the engine, without sucess. Can this indicate a leak? It's related with the oil on the dust cover?
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Old 08-15-2006, 04:24 PM   #1329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff1
Guys!
my dust cover is all dirty of oil and sand.
This can suggest a broke o-ring? I had suffered problems with the carburation, after the straight line. I stop pull the trigger the rpm don't return to idle immediately, it's takes approximately 10 seconds. I tried hard to tune the engine, without sucess. Can this indicate a leak? It's related with the oil on the dust cover?
the thread stopped
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Old 08-17-2006, 04:22 AM   #1330
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Try spraying some motor spray around the base of the carb and the back plate. If it dies out you have a leak, if not it might be low on compression and starting to overheat.
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Old 08-30-2006, 08:54 AM   #1331
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I do agree that the motor spray method work but..........

2 weeks ago I was fighting a "leaking" problem. Everytime i sprayed the engine while running around the carb retaining bolt, the engine would die. I sealed everything up and the same thing kept happening. I gave up on the engine and dropped in a spare engine and ran the RC Pro Series race up here in IL. It wasn't until after the race while i was tearing down and cleaning when i realized that the low end needle was way too lean. I richened it up and all my problems disappeared.

Heres the kicker: I tried the motor spray on the carb again and it killed the engine . I thought about it a little bit and heres what I came up with: When the motor spray hits the engine casing (area below the thermo insulator), theres a sudden change in temperature. The sudden change in temperature transfers to the fuel/air mixture inside and instantly condenses (to a degree) it for a split second, just enough to produce a rich condition which kills the engine.
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Old 08-30-2006, 02:59 PM   #1332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thunderbt3
I do agree that the motor spray method work but..........

2 weeks ago I was fighting a "leaking" problem. Everytime i sprayed the engine while running around the carb retaining bolt, the engine would die. I sealed everything up and the same thing kept happening. I gave up on the engine and dropped in a spare engine and ran the RC Pro Series race up here in IL. It wasn't until after the race while i was tearing down and cleaning when i realized that the low end needle was way too lean. I richened it up and all my problems disappeared.

Heres the kicker: I tried the motor spray on the carb again and it killed the engine . I thought about it a little bit and heres what I came up with: When the motor spray hits the engine casing (area below the thermo insulator), theres a sudden change in temperature. The sudden change in temperature transfers to the fuel/air mixture inside and instantly condenses (to a degree) it for a split second, just enough to produce a rich condition which kills the engine.
yes this happend to me too
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Old 09-06-2006, 12:36 AM   #1333
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Default Tune pipe

I'm running the .12 OS TZ motor
question is what other tune pipe should I get for open big track?
I currented own the skyline VR12 plus...Thanks
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Old 09-06-2006, 06:29 AM   #1334
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anyone have a the part number or any tips to rebuild the a O.S CVR 12?
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Old 09-06-2006, 07:36 AM   #1335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OVA
I'm running the .12 OS TZ motor
question is what other tune pipe should I get for open big track?
I currented own the skyline VR12 plus...Thanks
thats already a good pipe that you got i also own one but its partnered witn an RB V-12 if you still want another pipe try looking at the OS Speed
1040 pipe
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