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Old 08-05-2005, 10:52 PM   #616
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still whats the difference between long and short stroke
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Old 08-05-2005, 10:54 PM   #617
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I'm breakin in one tomorrow. We'll see what it does? What pipe would work best with this motor, legal size?
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Old 08-05-2005, 11:16 PM   #618
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trebronpay... Yokomo Mielke and the Skyline VR legal pipes... Others will work, but if you want the best... Those two... Also break your motor as per the manual... And heat cycle your motor between refueling.... Your piston and sleeve will seat much better that way..

RC_Alan
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Old 08-05-2005, 11:36 PM   #619
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A long stroke motor is for tighter technical tracks because it makes more torque.
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Old 08-06-2005, 02:07 AM   #620
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Thanks RC_Alan.
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Old 08-06-2005, 04:32 AM   #621
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Thank you all !
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Old 08-06-2005, 08:34 AM   #622
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We did some testing yesterday with my buddy's 3 port tz... We run in denver (mile high), so conditions are different to say the least...on a small, tight track. We played around a bit, and found that with 30% blue thunder, we could remove the .2mm head shim and run a p3 plug. this seemed to make better power then the stock shimming with a #6 plug. The engine did NOT like to run with the #6 without the .2 shim. With temps in the 260 range, the engine now revs much better (probably the hotter plug), and makes mad bottom end... He has much more punch out of the corner then anyone else. If his car had a centax, he would be dangerous!!!
Anyway, thought I'd pass this info on to anyone who runs in thin air (8000 ft ++ air density). This is a great engine...
BTW... I have over 3 gallons through my OS r-spec, and it still screams with excellent compression when hot........the tz should be just as good.....
late..
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Old 08-06-2005, 04:16 PM   #623
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well i think i'm closer to choosing an engine !
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Old 08-06-2005, 04:17 PM   #624
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_alan
trebronpay... Yokomo Mielke and the Skyline VR legal pipes... Others will work, but if you want the best... Those two... Also break your motor as per the manual... And heat cycle your motor between refueling.... Your piston and sleeve will seat much better that way..

RC_Alan
Also try the OS 1040 pipe. IMHO, it is better to use the pipe and engine from the same company.
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Old 08-06-2005, 04:23 PM   #625
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do you think i would be able to order the OS pipe from my local hobby shop!
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Old 08-07-2005, 06:17 AM   #626
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Default FACTORY SETTINGS

I HAVE THE OS TZ 3 PORTS AND IN THE PROCESS OF RUNNING IN THE ENGINE. IAM HAVING DIFFICULTY IN STARTING THE ENGINE. I SUSPECT THAT THE NEEDLES WERE ALTERED.WHAT ARE THE ORIGINAL NEEDLE SETTINGS FOR THESE ENGINES. LIKE 1 3/4 FOR HIGH NEEDLE, HOW ABOUT THE OTHER NEEDLES. I KNOW THEY SHOULD BE FLUSH WITH THE BARREL SURFACE. I JUST WANT TO KNOW HOW MANY TURNS EXACTLY.

THANK YOU GUYS.
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Old 08-07-2005, 07:41 AM   #627
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..

Last edited by Civic_RS; 11-23-2005 at 03:35 AM.
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Old 08-07-2005, 02:00 PM   #628
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Hi

Where can I get a PL set for the OS TR(P) online?

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Old 08-07-2005, 08:01 PM   #629
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With P6 plug I was running 259F and would not make 5 minutes. Luckily I was able to roll my car to the finish line and qualified 6th in the A main. I switch to P7 and finished the 15 minutes main with fuel left after pitting twice at 240F. The motor still lock up without the plug on it after it cooled down. I noticed that it is harder to tune if you are using non-OS. It does not seal properly there's bubble or leak by the plug. Anybody knows where to get the plug under $8? RC_Alan with Yokomo pipe it runs better? I don't have neither of the OS pipe nor VR12 but, sure will try next time. With tuning I have to open 1/2 turn both mid and bottom to flush then close the bottom to crank up. If the high end is flushed then it would die when you apply gas. I have to turn in at least 1 1/2 to keep it on when applying gas. After that it never stall...
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Old 08-07-2005, 08:08 PM   #630
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Nutzjedd, I forgot to tell you after I flush the bottom end I turn in a quarter to start. Then I opened again after I was able to run. Also, use OS plug. I tried Italian brand and it won't stay on. It leaks from the plug.
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