R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road > Onroad Nitro Engine Zone

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-01-2005, 01:08 PM   #586
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 852
Trader Rating: 49 (100%+)
Default

Can someone shed light on this?

I have the 3 port TZ and have about 3/4 gallon (Maxy 30%) through it. It was broken-in via the non-idling method

This past weekend was the first time I have ran it more than in a 5 minute heat.

At about 13 minutes, the idle went high (like a lean low end setting) but I was still blowing tons of smoke upon excellaration and the engine was only about 210 .


I couple of observations:

- I had noticed earlier in the day that the engine idle had started creeping up
- upon start of the main the idle was NOT high.
- I pulled it in shortly after the idle went high. Start it up 10-15 minutes afterwards and the idle was fine again.
- Prior to this main, my P/S still got stuck at TDC easily, didn't check it afterwards


Could it be that the engine has finally seated in and nows there is less friction at idle? or maybe it is something else.

any thoughts?
rodneybarrett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2005, 09:33 AM   #587
Tech Elite
 
BigDogRacing's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 2,955
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to BigDogRacing
Default

Rodney it sounds like you may have developed a slight vacume leak. Check the carb o-ring and be sure to push down on the carb when you are tightening the lock nut back down. Also check all screws on the motor including head screws and replace the plug with a P7 just to be sure. Then bench tune it again and see how it does.
BigDogRacing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2005, 09:39 AM   #588
Tech Master
 
ziggy12345's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: West Midlands, UK
Posts: 1,596
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDogRacing
Rodney it sounds like you may have developed a slight vacume leak. Check the carb o-ring and be sure to push down on the carb when you are tightening the lock nut back down. Also check all screws on the motor including head screws and replace the plug with a P7 just to be sure. Then bench tune it again and see how it does.
Or it could be a pressure leak from the tank or a leak in the pressure tube.,...
__________________
Dedicated RC Car Speed Site

http://www.fast-rc.co.uk/forum/index.php

Sponsored by:
Norfolk and Chance
ziggy12345 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2005, 03:23 PM   #589
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Auckland,New Zealand
Posts: 590
Default

Could someone please tell me why we remove on shim from the os tz 3port when using 16% fuel, and will i still need to run P3 plugs or a P6?

Thanks in advance
Brett.w is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2005, 08:26 PM   #590
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: SoCal
Posts: 874
Default

Brett.w... The rule of thumb is when running a lower nitro fuel, you run a hot plug... ie... OS P3 or P6... Anything 20% or below in nitro you should run a hot plug... Sometimes weather conditions/temps may also have you use a different plug type... Safe bet, like I said, if you're running 20% or lower, run a hot plug. As for your head shim question, if your motor is running fine the way it is... Leave the stock head shims the way they are... Taking shims out... Adding to many or not enough head shims can cause more head-aches... If it's not broken... Why fix it...

RC_Alan
rc_alan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2005, 09:32 PM   #591
Tech Apprentice
 
edracer1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 93
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rodneybarrett
Can someone shed light on this?

I have the 3 port TZ and have about 3/4 gallon (Maxy 30%) through it. It was broken-in via the non-idling method

This past weekend was the first time I have ran it more than in a 5 minute heat.

At about 13 minutes, the idle went high (like a lean low end setting) but I was still blowing tons of smoke upon excellaration and the engine was only about 210 .


I couple of observations:

- I had noticed earlier in the day that the engine idle had started creeping up
- upon start of the main the idle was NOT high.
- I pulled it in shortly after the idle went high. Start it up 10-15 minutes afterwards and the idle was fine again.
- Prior to this main, my P/S still got stuck at TDC easily, didn't check it afterwards


Could it be that the engine has finally seated in and nows there is less friction at idle? or maybe it is something else.

any thoughts?
I also had this happen, after a 10min main, the engine idle was really high. I solved it by richening the low end (3-turns out right now) and ran the P7 plug.
But now I'm trying the P6 plug again and have richen the high side (1 1/4 turn out) and run about 250 deg and the outside temps are a littler cooler (upper 90's) and one local track changing to night racing. (even cooler). So if you don't have an air leak do run the P7.

Last edited by edracer1; 08-03-2005 at 09:40 PM. Reason: typo and spelling...dang I need to proof read this.
edracer1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2005, 01:27 AM   #592
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: holland
Posts: 28
Send a message via MSN to pedal2thametal
Default

whats best for running the os3port engine.
16% of 25%.

at my local shop i can only get 16 or either 25, nothing inbetween .
pedal2thametal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2005, 01:35 AM   #593
Tech Master
 
ziggy12345's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: West Midlands, UK
Posts: 1,596
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brett.w
Could someone please tell me why we remove on shim from the os tz 3port when using 16% fuel, and will i still need to run P3 plugs or a P6?

Thanks in advance
As the piston rises it compresses the fuel/air mixture and raises its temp. At a given point it will react with the glow plug and ignite and the pressure pushes the piston down.

As Nitromethane burns slower and at a lower temp it needs more time to burn and therfore requires more head clearance. If you reduce the Nitromethane content you need a higher cylinder temp or compression and a faster burn so less head clearance.

Adjusting the head clearance can also advance and retard the timing to move the power band for a given track. Changing the plug can also do this as a hotter plug advances the timing and gives more low end power

Cheers
__________________
Dedicated RC Car Speed Site

http://www.fast-rc.co.uk/forum/index.php

Sponsored by:
Norfolk and Chance
ziggy12345 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2005, 01:37 AM   #594
Tech Master
 
ziggy12345's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: West Midlands, UK
Posts: 1,596
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by pedal2thametal
whats best for running the os3port engine.
16% of 25%.

at my local shop i can only get 16 or either 25, nothing inbetween .
16% for 0.3-0.4mm head clearance and 25% for 0.4-0.5mm

Cheers
__________________
Dedicated RC Car Speed Site

http://www.fast-rc.co.uk/forum/index.php

Sponsored by:
Norfolk and Chance
ziggy12345 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2005, 03:22 AM   #595
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Auckland,New Zealand
Posts: 590
Default

Thanks for your explanation Alan & Ziggy
Brett.w is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2005, 05:45 AM   #596
Tech Adept
 
BatJam1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: EastMeadow Long island NY
Posts: 178
Default

Hello , whats the difference between the short stroke and the long stroke! i have a O.S. .12 CV-R that works awsome but i'm interested in tis motor hows it stack up to the Nove and Sirio. and why only 16% instead of 20% or 30%.Is there any books or a sight on the web to Learn more about small nitro racing engines.
BatJam1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2005, 07:01 AM   #597
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 948
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BatJam1
Hello , whats the difference between the short stroke and the long stroke! i have a O.S. .12 CV-R that works awsome but i'm interested in tis motor hows it stack up to the Nove and Sirio. and why only 16% instead of 20% or 30%.Is there any books or a sight on the web to Learn more about small nitro racing engines.
To put it to you nicely, it will get SPANKED by Nova, Sirio, RB, and the likes!
Rody is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2005, 07:09 AM   #598
Tech Elite
 
squarehead's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wheaton, Illinois
Posts: 4,211
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to squarehead Send a message via MSN to squarehead Send a message via Yahoo to squarehead Send a message via Skype™ to squarehead
Default

Really, go troll in another thread.

Everything that has been witnessed with these new TZs shows that for much less cost, they run at least as fast as the more costly Rossis, RBs and Sirios out of the box.

More than a few that I have seen in person are some of the fastest motors on the track, and in an unmodified state.
__________________
Everything depends.
Nothing is always.
Everything is sometimes.
squarehead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2005, 09:06 AM   #599
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: SoCal
Posts: 874
Default

ApexSpeed... Well said... I know it may be hard to believe for some that OS could produce a motor that not only can compete, but spank the competition... but they did with the TZ 12-3P... The TZ is a complete redesign from what they did prior and like I said in prior posts, when broken properly, matched with the correct tune pipe, this motor can smoke the competition hands down... I've smoked Sirio EVO III's, Mega Picco's, and Nova's with my TZ... I race on a large 1/10 - 1/8th scale track that carries alot of speed and this motor is just plan fast... It's funny when folks come up to me and ask if I'm running a Sirio EVO III because of the blue cooling head or the TZ 18-5P and I say no, it's the TZ.12 3P bone stock out of the box... and they say What?!!? You're kidding, that motor is fast and I've got to me one of those!!! lol.. In stock form the motor is a monster... I've since bought a new crank and had a very Good friend Mod the new crank close to what the M-speed specs are but with a few added touches.... And no, this was not some quick hand job... All machine cut, ported and balanced... All I can say is WOW!!! Thanks Data!!! Opps... On second thought... It's not the motor... It must be the car... Mongoose/G4

RC_Alan
rc_alan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2005, 12:12 PM   #600
Tech Fanatic
 
Data's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: NCC-1701E, the Enterprise
Posts: 765
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_alan
It's not the motor... It must be the car... Mongoose/G4
make sure you stay long enough to run with me this saturday, let see if it is the engine or the car or something else
Data is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:24 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net