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Old 06-08-2005, 07:21 PM   #331
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Default I prefer the Ron Paris break in procedure ...

What do you guys think about this ???

YOUR NEW ENGINE’S FIRST RUN
We know that you want to go out and do some hot laps the instant your new engine fires to life—but don’t! The first few runs of your new engine are critical. Once your engine starts, place the car on a stand so that its wheels can’t touch the ground. Let the engine idle at low rpm for a few minutes (two or three minutes will do), then shut the engine down and let it cool.
During this procedure, it’s also important that the piston not be at the top of the cylinder while the engine is cooling. Part of what’s taking place during break-in is that the engine’s mating parts are being heat-cycled—they’re expanding when the engine is hot and contracting when it cools. Heat cycling stabilizes the metal and allows mating parts to fit better against each other. Keeping the piston out of the upper portion of the cylinder (which is smaller in diameter than the lower portion in order to create a better seal during combustion) will allow the cylinder to properly contract as it cools—without interference from the piston. To figure out where the piston is in relation to the cylinder, just turn the flywheel—it will become difficult to turn when the piston is at the top of the cylinder, where the fit between the piston and cylinder is its tightest. Just turn the flywheel until the piston is in the middle of its “easy turning” part.
Now you’re ready to lay down some horsepower, right? Wrong! Repeat the above steps three or four more times.

YES, YOU CAN DRIVE IT NOW
After you’ve heat-cycled your engine, you can finally put it on the track. But don’t get too excited yet—you must run it with a very rich high-speed needle setting. Some engine experts recommend that, during break-in, the engine be set rich enough so that it will actually four-cycle instead of two (our nitro engines are two-cycle, which means that the fuel/air mixture is ignited once for every two strokes of the piston). Four cycling means that the engine is actually only firing one time for every four strokes of the piston. In this condition, all of the unburned fuel passing through the combustion chamber takes heat (and any tiny metal particles created during the breaking-in process) right out to the exhaust pipe!
Do you really need to run the engine this rich? Well, the experts know their stuff, but we have broken in dozens of new engines without actually allowing them to four stroke. Whether or not you four-stroke your engine during break-in is entirely up to you—just make absolutely certain that the high-speed needle is set very rich: lots of blue smoke should be coming from the exhaust, and the engine should sound “blubbery.”
During this procedure, it’s vital that you avoid prolonged use of full throttle, which could strain the engine. You should instead “blip” the throttle as you drive the car to avoid spending too much time in one particular rpm range.
Run the engine using these settings for three or four tankfuls of fuel, allowing the engine to cool in between runs.

NOW COMES THE GOOD PART!
Once you’ve put about six to eight tanks of fuel through the engine (as outlined above), it’s time to begin leaning the high-speed needle and making some power! Begin by leaning the high-speed needle (by turning it inward, or clockwise) by about one-hour (if you imagine the needle as a clockface, one full turn of the needle would equal 12 hours). Run the car for a minute or so, then bring it back in and lean the needle by another one hour increment. Repeat this process until the engine begins to achieve good rpm, but it shouldn’t be allowed to “scream” quite yet. The engine should still be creating lots of blue smoke from its exhaust.
Before you achieve that screaming race setting, we recommend that you run your engine for a few more tankfuls in this “almost race” setting. Once you get the needle set to where your engine is making good rpm, richen it (by turning the needle counter-clockwise) by about a quarter of a turn—this is your final setting.

THE FINAL STEPS
Once you’ve found a good setting for the high-speed needle that allows the engine to make good power yet still push plenty of blue smoke from the exhaust (especially when the car exits a turn), it’s time to set the low-end needle and the idle-stop screw.
Most engine manufacturers recommend a specific setting for the idle-stop screw, and they’re usually well within the ballpark. For now, set the idle-stop screw so that the engine will idle at a moderate rpm without stalling.
Bring the engine up to operating temperature by driving it for a few minutes. Now stop the car and listen to the engine’s idle speed. If the engine idles fast but then slows down in just a few seconds, the low-speed needle is probably set too rich. Lean the low-speed needle (by turning it clockwise in one-hour increments) until, after running a few more laps, the idle stays high for about twenty seconds or so when you stop the car. Once you’ve done this, use the idle-stop screw to make the final adjustment of the idle speed.
For sport engines which lack a low-speed needle, the idle-stop screw is the only method of adjusting the engine’s idle speed. For these engines, simply turn the idle-screw clockwise to increase idle speed, and counterclockwise to reduce the idle speed.
Setting your engine’s idle speed isn’t a contest to see how low you can get it without stalling the engine! Your goal when setting the idle should be to allow the engine to run at moderate rpm without the clutch being engaged whatsoever. Your car should be able to sit at a standstill when idling. If you have to hold the brake, the idle is too high. If you have to blip the throttle to prevent stalling the engine, the idle it too low.
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Old 06-08-2005, 07:38 PM   #332
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Anyone has any idea on the difference between the TZR and TZ-P(T)?? Apparently TZ-P is meant Japan domestic market. Is the specifications similar?

Rgds
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Old 06-09-2005, 11:01 AM   #333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BundyMan
Anyone has any idea on the difference between the TZR and TZ-P(T)?? Apparently TZ-P is meant Japan domestic market. Is the specifications similar?

Rgds
From what I know...all the 12 TZ series are all under TZ (P) or TZ (S) P= Pilot shaft = SG shaft and S = standard shaft = threaded shaft.......there are no TZ (R) or TZR whatsoever, are you comfused with the last verion called 12TR-R spec...? TZ (P) and (S) are listed in Japan OS site and also in Tower (USA).....

Not even OS engine Japan main page listed TZR...all TZ(P) and TZ(S).

http://www.os-engines.co.jp/english/index.htm

Last edited by Rookie Solara; 06-09-2005 at 11:17 AM.
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Old 06-09-2005, 11:39 AM   #334
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Thats close, OS designations
(P) = Pilot shaft, SG shaft
(S) = Short shaft. Shoulder is completely round to accept collet, no flats or provisions for a prop washer and the shaft is short. These were designed for Associated vehicles.
(X) = Recoil
No designation = threaded shaft

I haven't seen anything on a TZ R-Spec (ROAR) or TZ E-Spec (EFRA) like they did with the TR's

TZ part numbers I have found so far

11370 = 3 port, standard shaft, rotary carb TZ-T3
11371 = 3 port, short shaft, rotary carb TZ(S)-T3
11373 = 3 port, SG shaft, slide carb TZ(P)-T3
11375 = 5 port, SG shaft, slide carb TZ(P)-T5

Last edited by 3434; 06-09-2005 at 12:08 PM.
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Old 06-13-2005, 04:59 AM   #335
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Default Running temps

Guys,

Can I get some feedback from you on the head temp(measured at glow plug) for your engines. I was running it in the hot Malaysian sun yesterday(mid day) and engine temped at around 125C. Air temp was easily 30+C.
Was not running that lean. Just lean enough to get good power but not race level lean if you know what I mean...

Cheers
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Old 06-13-2005, 05:15 AM   #336
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Mine Runs about 110 - 120c, it depends on a lot of things, holes in the body, oil content in the fuel etc etc
.....in Malaysia it's not only the sun you have to worry about...what about that humidity!

regards

Luis Sola
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Old 06-13-2005, 06:03 AM   #337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverM3
I just got my V1RRR WCE put together. Now, the next task for me is to break in the engine. I have a TZ 5 ports. what would be a good break-in process? Would it be worthwhile to buy a break-in stand? What I have in mind is a cheap one(still expensive), like Nanda engine break in stand. Any suggestions? thx.
try the josh cyrul version on how to break-in the engine...
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Old 06-13-2005, 02:19 PM   #338
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Finally meet "Gijoe69" and his OS teammate at our track yesterday, and seeing their box stock 12 TZ 3 port running against my Mugen X12, others Sirio EVO3, Mega Zx-12, Sirio 15, V12 Rody and JP 12...............the 12TZ is UP TO SPEED with all those fast motor out there, but with sub $200 ROAR legal engine, that is a BIG PLUS.

I have seen faster motor, but usually not with a $200 price tag, this 12 TZ does impress me (compare to their 12 TR before) a HUGH step ahead.
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Old 06-13-2005, 02:51 PM   #339
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Sounds good. I may just have to pick one up for myself.
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Old 06-14-2005, 05:00 AM   #340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp Racer
Mine Runs about 110 - 120c, it depends on a lot of things, holes in the body, oil content in the fuel etc etc
.....in Malaysia it's not only the sun you have to worry about...what about that humidity!

regards

Luis Sola
Australia
Thanks mate,

Weather's a killer here... Not only for the engine, but the driver too... Phew!!!
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Old 06-14-2005, 06:11 AM   #341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Vader
Thanks mate,

Weather's a killer here... Not only for the engine, but the driver too... Phew!!!




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Old 06-14-2005, 07:30 AM   #342
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Yeah the temps here are already goin into the 80s. I don't feel like running the 8th onroad now. It's so comfortable inside with the AC on and eating ice cream.
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Old 06-19-2005, 10:29 AM   #343
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Would the P/S set and the crankshaft from a TZ 3prt fit inside of the TR T (P)? I might replace my internals when the motor dies.
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Old 06-19-2005, 11:19 AM   #344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsxshogun
Would the P/S set and the crankshaft from a TZ 3prt fit inside of the TR T (P)? I might replace my internals when the motor dies.

Haven't got my hands on a TZ yet but I can tell you the inner bearing is different, so the crank could be larger in dia.. Not sure of the rod lenght either but the stroke is different so there is a good possibility the compression distance has changed. These are thing I have found in the specs..
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Old 06-19-2005, 08:26 PM   #345
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Got my OS TZ over the weekend. Dismantled and cleaned it before lubricating the internals with some tamiya engine treatment oil. I am mightily impressed with the quality of the materials used and not to mention the finishing which is on par if not better than the Nova engines. Over the weekend in a local club race, someone with this engine was able to out accelerate an IDM engine! Kudos to OS for producing such an engine at an affordable price!

Btw, how many shims are you guys using for this engine? And what's the LSN and HSN needle setting?

Rgds
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