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Old 05-19-2005, 09:09 PM   #271
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Default iMPRESSIONS...

OK, here's my initial impression of the TZ.
I got the 5-port model with slide carb. Fitted on my S710.
Commenced run in yesterday.

Before I installed it, I took it apart to check the internals for any dirt, debris, etc. Looks good. Now I regret not taking pics.

Run in,
1st tank, ran really rich at WOT to flush out whatever foreign items left in the engine. Temp at around 70+C.

2nd tank, leaned a bit and ran around the track straight at mostly WOT. Temp in the 80+C range. Stopped after 1/2 tank let engine cool and commenced running.

Same for the 3rd tank. Leaned slightly, about 15~20degrees HSN.

4th tank, ran full tank around the track, like normal driving, leaned enough for 2nd speed to kick in but still very rich. At this point, HSN is about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 turns out from fully closed. Didn't touch the other 2 needles so far.

5th tank, leaned to 1 1/2 turns out. Running very rich but able to kick in 2nd speed without problem. Down the straight, , already as fast as my 12 TR. Infield still sluggish because still very rich.
Engine temp, still around 90C... Exhaust manifold temp at 120C range.

FYI, I ran it at night. Ambient temp around 25degrees.

P/S still very tight. Sometimes, still jammed at TDC when I try to start from cold.

Will continue run in this weekend.

Gonna bring engine temp to around 100+C from 6th tank onwards to get proper heat cycling.

I welcome any comments, tips ,etc...

Cheers...
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Old 05-19-2005, 09:19 PM   #272
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when you shut down the engine, make sure the piston is not at TDC. do so by checking the flywheel movement.
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Old 05-20-2005, 12:48 AM   #273
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Quote:
Originally posted by wyl03
when you shut down the engine, make sure the piston is not at TDC. do so by checking the flywheel movement.
Mark the flywheel at BDC and you'll be good.
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Old 05-20-2005, 01:09 AM   #274
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Quote:
Originally posted by wyl03
when you shut down the engine, make sure the piston is not at TDC. do so by checking the flywheel movement.
Yup, check everytime....
Thanks for the reminder...
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Old 05-20-2005, 01:52 AM   #275
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Default performance..

Quote:
Originally posted by Darth Vader
Yup, check everytime....
Thanks for the reminder...
darth...after finish breakin in...inform me what do u think on the performance ....esp. comparing with the older tr....thanks maybe get one myself...
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Old 05-20-2005, 04:19 AM   #276
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Default Re: performance..

Quote:
Originally posted by rcabj
darth...after finish breakin in...inform me what do u think on the performance ....esp. comparing with the older tr....thanks maybe get one myself...
OK... will do...
I'll update my impressions here...
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Old 05-20-2005, 07:25 AM   #277
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Quote:
darth...after finish breakin in...inform me what do u think on the performance ....esp. comparing with the older tr....thanks maybe get one myself...
I can tell you that the performance of the TZ will make you very happy....

After 5 litres, still a little nip at TDC!

The pipe length seems to make a really big difference to where the engine makes the power, the TR was less noticeable.

One thing I encountered early on was the bottom bushing on the conrod spun , slightly blocking the lubrication passage.

I re-drilled this little hole and it has done another 2 litres with no problem.

1 little hint, warm up the engine with a small fan heater or a heat gun before break-in, it will lessen the stress on the conrod.
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Old 05-20-2005, 09:12 AM   #278
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does the tz engine come with an airfilter??? also i have read fromt the website that is comes with a p6 glow plug. has anyone tried using a p3 plug on this engine??? any comments of this??? p3 is much hotter than the p6 plug.
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Old 05-20-2005, 09:36 AM   #279
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Quote:
Originally posted by doki_doki
does the tz engine come with an airfilter??? also i have read fromt the website that is comes with a p6 glow plug. has anyone tried using a p3 plug on this engine??? any comments of this??? p3 is much hotter than the p6 plug.
Use P3 to break in or something minor, like practice, P6 or P7 are what you really want to use to race.

No air filter came with the engine....you are lucky that you have a free plug, not too many engine mfr give free plug with the engine.
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Old 05-21-2005, 12:40 AM   #280
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Use P3 to break in or something minor, like practice, P6 or P7 are what you really want to use to race.

No air filter came with the engine....you are lucky that you have a free plug, not too many engine mfr give free plug with the engine.
i see... i've read from the rccaraction magazine that they used replaced the os p6 turbo plug with a p3 on the ostr r-spec with very good results. with the old ostr engine, it came with a plug and an airfilter. sad to say that os did not include an airfilter anymore.
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Old 05-21-2005, 12:42 AM   #281
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by the way, do you need to shim the engine if you use a 25% nitro??? if so, how many shims are needed???
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Old 05-21-2005, 02:03 PM   #282
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Nope, only if you go above 30%.
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Old 05-23-2005, 07:32 AM   #283
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SP Racer: What pipe have you found that works well with this engine. I have the TP1040 pipe on order.
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Old 05-23-2005, 07:39 AM   #284
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The kyosho pipe works awesome but is a little pricey around the $70us mark
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Old 05-23-2005, 08:34 AM   #285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDogRacing
Nope, only if you go above 30%.
ok thanks
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