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man I am still having trouble with .28 still has the stall problem when motor gets in the upper revs, carb started leaking also leaking from brass pinchers that hold the carb. so I sealed the carb and holders with some silicone. thought that may have been the problem. its very strange when motor leans out on its own at the very end of the tank it doesnt die when reved but if I try to lean it out with the needles it does. i am so lost.:mad: :mad: could the needles be bad if so where can i get some new needles and an oring for the carb. also what are the factory settings for the needles
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Originally posted by ryan6682 man I am still having trouble with .28 still has the stall problem when motor gets in the upper revs, carb started leaking also leaking from brass pinchers that hold the carb. so I sealed the carb and holders with some silicone. thought that may have been the problem. its very strange when motor leans out on its own at the very end of the tank it doesnt die when reved but if I try to lean it out with the needles it does. i am so lost.:mad: :mad: could the needles be bad if so where can i get some new needles and an oring for the carb. also what are the factory settings for the needles I just tried a .28 and recorded the needle setting.That is running setting not break-in setting. High speed needle -- about 2 ~ 1 1/2 turns out Low speed needle -- about 4 turns out I'm using 0.4mm shims with 25% nitro,#5 plug. Try it first. If you still have problem after testing,don't worry. Just send this engine to me. I will check it carefully. And let you know the result. But you know it will take some time. |
This engine sounds wicked but I have no desire to tear up my gears. One of the great things about monster truck is the low maintenance on repairs. Guess I'll wait for the stronger transmission like Dino said.
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I guess you could always just gear the baby up - less torque on the drive train + more speed..
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Originally posted by ryan6682 man I am still having trouble with .28 still has the stall problem when motor gets in the upper revs, carb started leaking also leaking from brass pinchers that hold the carb. so I sealed the carb and holders with some silicone. thought that may have been the problem. its very strange when motor leans out on its own at the very end of the tank it doesnt die when reved but if I try to lean it out with the needles it does. i am so lost.:mad: :mad: could the needles be bad if so where can i get some new needles and an oring for the carb. also what are the factory settings for the needles I went to test the .28 this afternoon and would like to find what trouble you have. As my experience when the engine still new,it do have the same situation that you have. It is not leaking problem. Please back to the rich setting. And run some tanks of fuel. Lean the main needle 1/8 turn between each tank till the high speed is enough. Another way is that you can add 0.1mm head shim to lower the compression. How to check if the break-in process is finish? Take out the plug and pull the pull-start system. It should be very smooth after break-in. Regards, Dino |
It turns out I am just an Idiot. I was used the way the .21 motor would scream at top rpm and was trying to get the same from the .28. All is fine now motor runs strong has lots of bottom end to accelerate the tall geared mammoth to 52mph in no time flat. thanks for all your tips and advice.
you need to make an 8 port .28 that will scream like the .21 dragon motor. :D :D |
DUAL STS28 SAVAGE
Break-in the dual STS28 SAVAGE.
http://rcbigclub.myweb.hinet.net/mov/twinpower.wmv Wheelie when break-in... http://myweb.hinet.net/home14/yungshen/RC1.wmv |
Originally posted by ryan6682 It turns out I am just an Idiot. I was used the way the .21 motor would scream at top rpm and was trying to get the same from the .28. All is fine now motor runs strong has lots of bottom end to accelerate the tall geared mammoth to 52mph in no time flat. thanks for all your tips and advice. you need to make an 8 port .28 that will scream like the .21 dragon motor. :D :D |
Dino, does the savage use the original drivetrain? what about the driveshaft, dog bone? diff set? anything change when use with this engine?
i love the video...especially when u all playing under the overhead highway :D |
Is this engine fit mugen MBX 5 ? I mean the engine mounting.
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Originally posted by jfc_tech Dino, does the savage use the original drivetrain? what about the driveshaft, dog bone? diff set? anything change when use with this engine? i love the video...especially when u all playing under the overhead highway :D First you need stronger rear rims. Aluminum rims or change the hex-adapter to bigger one. When you pulling wheelie the clutch bell is very hot. And the pinion gear is very hot,too. So it will melt away the plastics spur gear. So you need to have a fan to lower the temp of the clutch bell if you are a wheelie fanatic. Also you need a 5th wheel fitted on the rear bumper. See the attachment. That is very important! You will damage your engine's cooling head if you don't have the 5th wheel. STS28 has too much torque. When you kick down the throttle the car just backward somersault. :D Because it rains almost 2 weeks here. So we can only play R/C cars under the overhead highway. Now is rain season in Taiwan:cry: |
Originally posted by asw7576 Is this engine fit mugen MBX 5 ? I mean the engine mounting. |
Dino,
Did you have to modify your X1CR for the 28 motor? Thanks. Phong |
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Originally posted by SpeedChair Dino, Did you have to modify your X1CR for the 28 motor? Thanks. Phong You need the one-piece engine mount. You can get it from OFNA. http://www.ofna.com/images/new-40590-engmount-big.jpg Thanks, Dino |
Hi Dino. I have an sts .28 on the way to me and I am looking forward to trying it out. I have a question about your savage.... What gas tank is that and where did you get it? Looking forward to running this engine:)
thanks |
Originally posted by rcosmax Hi Dino. I have an sts .28 on the way to me and I am looking forward to trying it out. I have a question about your savage.... What gas tank is that and where did you get it? Looking forward to running this engine:) thanks Sorry that is not SAVAGE. It is RAPTOR.:sweat: Dino |
Ahhh. :( I thought you had found a replacement hop up tank that solved the savage tank probs.... Anyway looking forward to running it this week.:)
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Originally posted by dino.tw As I knew if you enjoy wheelie then you need some upgrades. Otherwise you don't need to change anything. But I knew it is hard not to pull wheelie when you have a lot power.:p First you need stronger rear rims. Aluminum rims or change the hex-adapter to bigger one. When you pulling wheelie the clutch bell is very hot. And the pinion gear is very hot,too. So it will melt away the plastics spur gear. So you need to have a fan to lower the temp of the clutch bell if you are a wheelie fanatic. Also you need a 5th wheel fitted on the rear bumper. See the attachment. That is very important! You will damage your engine's cooling head if you don't have the 5th wheel. STS28 has too much torque. When you kick down the throttle the car just backward somersault. :D Because it rains almost 2 weeks here. So we can only play R/C cars under the overhead highway. Now is rain season in Taiwan:cry: the 5th wheel is like the trolley wheel. OMG :eek: :eek: Taiwan raining..we like in Savanna desert :lol: :lol: :lol: |
pull start cord snapped on my .28 where can I get a new one?
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YGPM dino.:p
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Originally posted by ryan6682 pull start cord snapped on my .28 where can I get a new one? You need to find a new manifold like this one. So that the manifold will not burn the cord if your tuned pipe is on the left side. Thank you, Dino |
Originally posted by jfc_tech YGPM dino.:p |
Just a bump and a quick report. I ran in the sts .28 this weekend. I am really happy with it. It still has breakin shims and is very rich but will wheelie my very heavy 6.5 kg savage after the rich low end clears out at about 3meters. My STS engines arrived completely clean of any debris and I must say they were in the best shape of any engine I have ever purchased on initial inspection.
Thanks dino and sts for your help. |
How easy is it to make it roto start compatible?
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Originally posted by Horatio How easy is it to make it roto start compatible? |
Awesome!!
That's just made it a whole lot easier to decide. :D I'll have a chat with Paul at cleveland models tomorrow! I prefer electric start, so for me being able to convert the STS .28 to Roto start would be a big selling point. I keep my Pullstarts for back-up in my pit box. You mentioned that you're just one month away from this part being available - will that include overseas customers? Nice one Dino!!!:) Regards Horatio |
Hi Horatio...i never tot u be here...welcome to STS world.:D
One month to roto-start.. :cry: :cry: nay, i can wait. im gonna buy another Savage SS to go with this beastie .28. for the time being, i play with my stock S25. |
Yes,Horatio. One month should be enough for you to run-in the engine.:lol:
JFC,you want to wait it?hehe....:lol: |
Where can i buy spares for this engine?. I would like to change the con rod after break-in.
Is this the one i need?....http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=4278 |
Originally posted by LeeUK Where can i buy spares for this engine?. I would like to change the con rod after break-in. Is this the one i need?.... http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=4278 Please see the .28 exploded view |
i dont want to wait..if its available already :D :D
anyway...i found out that the .21 sleeve #210300-1 same with the .28 sleeve???:confused: same also with 210302,210303 & 210304 the conrod.:confused: even the carburetor set also same...am i seeing the same picture here.... if they are...no wonder they're so fast :D :D |
Originally posted by jfc_tech i dont want to wait..if its available already :D :D anyway...i found out that the .21 sleeve #210300-1 same with the .28 sleeve???:confused: same also with 210302,210303 & 210304 the conrod.:confused: even the carburetor set also same...am i seeing the same picture here.... if they are...no wonder they're so fast :D :D The .28 sleeve is #280300-1 Yes,we want to produce a rece level .28 not rtr level. |
man....im screwed :blush: :sweat:
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Originally posted by jfc_tech Hi Horatio...i never tot u be here...welcome to STS world.:D I'm going to contact Paul today and find out some prices. As a side note, I've also been offered some other real nice goodies including a LSP with 2 decent engines. Just waiting to see how much it's going to cost including the shipping. |
Originally posted by LeeUK Where can i buy spares for this engine?. I would like to change the con rod after break-in. Is this the one i need?....http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=4278 You've gotta be the same Lee UK as over on SC! Great to see you here. Regards Horatio |
Originally posted by dino.tw Yes,Horatio. One month should be enough for you to run-in the engine.:lol: 2 tanks per week - even I could manage that pace!!:lol: |
Originally posted by Horatio Welcome Lee!! You've gotta be the same Lee UK as over on SC! Great to see you here. Regards Horatio |
A bunch of sc guys are checking this great forum out recently:nod: I go by scorchingsavage over on sc. good to see you here guys!
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ok let me guess...:rolleyes: sc=Savage Central :confused:
i want 2 join in too :blush: |
Originally posted by Horatio I figured if this engine is good enough for JFC, it's good enough for me! I'm going to contact Paul today and find out some prices. As a side note, I've also been offered some other real nice goodies including a LSP with 2 decent engines. Just waiting to see how much it's going to cost including the shipping. |
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