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Old 03-13-2006, 05:26 PM   #721
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Default mega zx 12 factory carb. setting

hey, need help what is the factory carb. setting on the zx .12? having serious problems tuning please help thanks.
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Old 03-13-2006, 06:11 PM   #722
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I dont know the factory settings but... Top needle should be somewhat flush.
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Old 03-14-2006, 04:04 AM   #723
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From MyTSN.com:
2.5 turns out on the low speed needle, and 4.5 turns out on the high speed needle.
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Old 03-14-2006, 05:18 AM   #724
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Default carb setting

if that duzn't work through the mega carb in your recycle bin and put an nova carb on it . that will end your issue . ote that the motor needs to warn up for about 3 minutes on the track before you can start tuning it. any question pm me .
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Old 03-14-2006, 06:16 AM   #725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FASASMUGEN
hey, need help what is the factory carb. setting on the zx .12? having serious problems tuning please help thanks.
If you go to mytsn.com and find the engine, the information you are looking for can be found under the FAQ. I assume that's what Ridder has provided.

Like isuzuguy, I am using a NR carb on my ZX-12 and it works very well.
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Old 03-14-2006, 07:14 AM   #726
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thanks guys for your feedback, now Ridder is that setting factory or race tuned?
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Old 03-14-2006, 01:25 PM   #727
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That's how I have it and how I found it on the forum on myTSN.
It's a good starting point. You have to finetune for your conditions.

I also tried a NR carb, but didn't like it.
It was an old type though, with 3 needles.
I could reach the HSN and the LSN (not very easy), but the "medium" needle couldn't be reached: it is where the brake disc is located.

I also heard good things about RB carbs.
Maybe I'll try one when I can find one for a reasonable price..
Untill then I can live with the Mega carb.
As said before: it is very important to get some heat into it before finetuning.
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Old 03-14-2006, 01:41 PM   #728
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Well let me tell once more the real advantage of the Mega carb. (composit) compared to a Nova carb. (alu)

Because the Mega carb. will not get as hot as a Alu. carb., restarting a hot engine when flamed out during a race will be much easier than with a hotter alu. carb. (which sometimes even is not possible)

the disadvantage is that it takes longer to get it on working temp., so don't start tunning your engine to early......
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Old 03-14-2006, 03:06 PM   #729
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The reason for the heat-up of the carb is that it is made of composite and metal.
Those materials expand at a different rate and speed.
When you tune it when it's not at operating temp, you have to tune it again when it is.
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Old 03-15-2006, 11:10 AM   #730
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Default Taming the monster

First check lo-speed and high needle for air leaks (damaged o-rings) then seal carb body to motor.

Get a Palmaris rod.

I have found a good starting point for 16% Nitro would be-

2607 pipe

0.4mm Head shims

#6 hot plug

Lo-speed 1.5mm OUT of slide.

High speed flush.

Do a good couple of laps until the shift point stabilizes.

Then start to adjust (lean) Hi-speed needle if necessary.

After each adjustment do 3-4 laps. If you are too lean low end grunt fades first and shift point gets later.

Motor needs very agressive clutch (+-1.7mm at nut) and short first gear.
Wrong gearing and it will be un-tunable.

Temp is not a good indicator. My best motor runs at close to 300 F.

It may be fast but fuel runtime could be a problem at lower temps.
They are not all created equal. See what temp will get you 5 min.

Hope this helps.
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Old 03-15-2006, 11:24 AM   #731
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Default Clutch update

+-1.7mm at nut with heavy spring and yellow shoe.
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Old 03-15-2006, 12:06 PM   #732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C Mike Hunt
+-1.7mm at nut with heavy spring and yellow shoe.
Heavy spring, ok.
Yellow shoe, ok.
But the 1.7mm is not something you can give as advise, because this setting depends on the conical used and the thickness of shim(s) behind the flywheel......
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Old 03-15-2006, 02:37 PM   #733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M7H
Heavy spring, ok.
Yellow shoe, ok.
But the 1.7mm is not something you can give as advise, because this setting depends on the conical used and the thickness of shim(s) behind the flywheel......
I was assuming that he was measuring the distance between the end of the nut holding the flywheel on and the preload nut (the one holding the spring on). If that's the case it does not matter what cone or shimming you use... right?

With 1.7mm of preload you may encounter spring binding. If you are using that much preload I think you should use the new spring. That's alot of preload... that clutch must hit like a hammer.
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Old 03-19-2006, 05:03 PM   #734
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Just for your info guys:

Those who are afraid of mega conrods. I been using a Palmaris since november, it already have a little more than 4 hours of use, and still have the same measure as new (4.38 mm) My mega is a Maxy Modified. I am using Maxy (team edition) 30% wiht .6 shims.
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Old 03-19-2006, 06:19 PM   #735
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where can i get one of these palmaris rods? i keep snaping them left and right and its strating to get old.
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