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Old 12-28-2005, 05:55 AM   #661
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i think they would make it better ,due to less rotating friction. i just don't know where to get any the te zx-12
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Old 12-30-2005, 10:35 PM   #662
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I am trying to change the connecting rod on my ZX12 and I can't get the wrist pin out. I have removed both G-clips and pushed it from either side and it won't budge. Is there some other method of removing it that I am not aware of? Is it pressed in? I thought they were floating.
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Old 12-31-2005, 01:39 AM   #663
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
I am trying to change the connecting rod on my ZX12 and I can't get the wrist pin out. I have removed both G-clips and pushed it from either side and it won't budge. Is there some other method of removing it that I am not aware of? Is it pressed in? I thought they were floating.
They can be hard to get out. In this case I use a heat gun to heat the piston a bit first. Then I stick a 1.5mm hex driver or similar into the wrist pin (into the open side of the wrist pin) and tap it out using a big handled screwdriver on the hex driver. I support the piston during this procedure on a soft wooden block with a hole drilled in it where the wristpin can come through. As long as you use gentle taps you'll have no problems.
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Old 12-31-2005, 02:08 AM   #664
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
I am trying to change the connecting rod on my ZX12 and I can't get the wrist pin out. I have removed both G-clips and pushed it from either side and it won't budge. Is there some other method of removing it that I am not aware of? Is it pressed in? I thought they were floating.
The problem is due to some mushrooming and burring of the edges of the circlip groove. The burrs can be carefully scraped away on one side and the pin will push out as described by Julius without hammering.
DO NOT chamfer the groove by cutting too deep. Just light scraping square to the hole.
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Old 12-31-2005, 07:57 AM   #665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
They can be hard to get out. In this case I use a heat gun to heat the piston a bit first. Then I stick a 1.5mm hex driver or similar into the wrist pin (into the open side of the wrist pin) and tap it out using a big handled screwdriver on the hex driver. I support the piston during this procedure on a soft wooden block with a hole drilled in it where the wristpin can come through. As long as you use gentle taps you'll have no problems.
Thanks guys. I will give it a try.
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Old 12-31-2005, 09:46 AM   #666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
They can be hard to get out. In this case I use a heat gun to heat the piston a bit first. Then I stick a 1.5mm hex driver or similar into the wrist pin (into the open side of the wrist pin) and tap it out using a big handled screwdriver on the hex driver. I support the piston during this procedure on a soft wooden block with a hole drilled in it where the wristpin can come through. As long as you use gentle taps you'll have no problems.
That worked perfectly. To push the pin back in I put a hinge pin in my drill press and gently pushed it back in. Now if I can just find a G-clip to replace the one I bent I will be finished.
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Old 01-02-2006, 03:42 AM   #667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
That worked perfectly. To push the pin back in I put a hinge pin in my drill press and gently pushed it back in. Now if I can just find a G-clip to replace the one I bent I will be finished.
NEVER re-use a G-clip.....
always put in new one's.........
And take some spare one's, just in case they jump through your room....
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Old 01-02-2006, 11:07 PM   #668
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How does the Mega ZX-21 compare to the other .21 race engines out there? How is the durability?
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Old 01-06-2006, 07:26 PM   #669
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Hi Guys:

I don't know if this has been anounced before, but serpent USA have the new conrods available, by now all engines will come with the new conrod apart, so you can make breaking with the old one and then change it to the new one. If you are interested on any engine, we have power packs with a very good price. Just visit the web page link below.
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Old 01-07-2006, 07:51 PM   #670
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edgar Millenium
Hi Guys:

I don't know if this has been anounced before, but serpent USA have the new conrods available, by now all engines will come with the new conrod apart, so you can make breaking with the old one and then change it to the new one. If you are interested on any engine, we have power packs with a very good price. Just visit the web page link below.
What's different about the "new" rod?
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Old 01-07-2006, 07:55 PM   #671
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Well, if the new rod Edgar is talking about is the one from Palmaris Engines. Then the difference is the material used on the conrod.
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Old 01-07-2006, 08:42 PM   #672
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JAg and Riketsu:

I will verify if they are the palmaris with other name, if yes , the difference are in the material used. Right now I still using the palmaris ones on my engines, without any sings of stretching or damage.
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Old 01-08-2006, 03:41 AM   #673
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Are there still delivery problems with the Picco conrods?
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Old 01-08-2006, 07:16 AM   #674
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Cyclops:

You can verify wiht your local serpent dealer, right now they are available with new engines, doesn't know if they are available separate.

I will verify on Monday and let you know.
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Old 01-08-2006, 10:31 AM   #675
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New Mega ZX12 Conrod (by Picco)

Well guys, Edgar was a little bit faster anouncing but anyway, no harm done

We have the latest conrod by Picco. Now, beside having awesome performance at a very good price level, we have also reliability. We have already stock of rods as spare parts. The engines we have in stock (both engine only and Powerpack) will be supplied with the old conrod installed (we reccomend to use it only for breaking in the egine) and the new one as a spare at no extra cost. After we sell all our inventory, the new batch will come with the new one already installed.

Paolo
Serpent USA
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