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Old 10-05-2012, 03:43 PM   #241
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Without changes you could use a 6 plug but the normal formula is to take out a 0.1mm headshim with 16%.

I have inspected and messured my engine and I must say that I am impressed. I had to clean some rust from the crankshaft but the PS set and the bearings seems to be fine.

The Novarossi R7 rod (I have plenty) fits perfectly on the crankpin but so far I could messure it is 0.4mm shorter than the OS rod so without modifications it is not possible. Oh well, on the search for an original rod
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:51 PM   #242
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Originally Posted by jensroland View Post
Hi experts

Here in north europe the onroad season is pretty much over, and the gear is cleaned and prepared for next season spring 2013.

In 2013 we are switching from 25 to 16 % nitro.

How am I going to change the headshimming on my Speed 21 XZ-R ... from the standard 0.3 mm to ?

And do I have to change to an other plug (have been using the standard RP7 with 25% nitro) because of the lower cooling of the 16% nitro ... the cooler plug RP8

Best wishes; Jens
Hi mate, just run as normal, you might find you might have slightly less power on exceleration but thats about it, and you will get better run time also, not that you need to worry about the OS to make 5 mins. so yeah run as normal. I had left over 16% in my garage and use that to run in my Speed motors. good Luck.
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:42 AM   #243
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Default 12F carby

Hello, just asking if there is anyone who has a 12F carby from one their 12XZ motors who wants to sell. I'm doing a mod to another OS motor and would like to try this carby out. Cheers, Paul.
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Last edited by volumex; 11-05-2012 at 07:53 AM. Reason: grammer
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:57 AM   #244
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Default Conrod play

Have checked my Tuned Speed after 4 Liters and the conrod play was 0.06mm
Running always RP7 plug, 25 nitro btw 90-95 temp. The engine is perfect but the play looks really too much in my opinion.

Any Nova will keep 0.03-0.04mm for long time

I should have measured the play when it was new but was too in a hurry to try it out that even forgot that step

Hope I won't have any surprise with the conrod as the engine is pretty new and I just use for weekend bashing on local track but will replace it as soon as it gets anything above 0.06mm
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:59 AM   #245
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Originally Posted by sm4100 View Post
Have checked my Tuned Speed after 4 Liters and the conrod play was 0.06mm
Running always RP7 plug, 25 nitro btw 90-95 temp. The engine is perfect but the play looks really too much in my opinion.

Any Nova will keep 0.03-0.04mm for long time

I should have measured the play when it was new but was too in a hurry to try it out that even forgot that step

Hope I won't have any surprise with the conrod as the engine is pretty new and I just use for weekend bashing on local track but will replace it as soon as it gets anything above 0.06mm
do you feel that when the rod was new was tight?
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:38 AM   #246
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Default Conrod play

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do you feel that when the rod was new was tight?
It is quite possible because the bushing in the conrod is so smooth and sratchless also the crankshaft is like new no signs at all. I have done the brake-in so carefuly 1st on engine stand then one galon of rich and smooth running on track. The sleeve looks beautifuly shinny and smooth. There is no way just the conrod would be killed so quick. I will relax and keep one eye on it after every race.
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:57 AM   #247
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I change my MM OS conrod after 8 Lt and the old one was nearly new..
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:17 AM   #248
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I change my MM OS conrod after 8 Lt and the old one was nearly new..
tony?are you that guy that did grooves with his MM OS at FRT?xxx
how good is it?
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:17 PM   #249
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Some info and a question:
So i ordered a new XZ-r about a month ago and had a REAL tough time getting it to break in, burned up a box and it kept leaking out of the head gasket??? SO i set it aside and purchased a Kangaroo (i needed a back up anyway) . Well since I am trying to make the Pan Am nats next week i didnt want to bother messing with warranty and all of that hoopla. So i purchased a new piston and liner. Came in yesterday and it was not the same as the original. The new one had the chrome plating all the way into the port and was masked off for a perfect finish while the old one seemed like it had overspray of the plating into the port.. Also the bore finish was different, the original looked like a honed finish while the new one looks polished. Well this one is breaking in perfect and runs beautiful so far! just wanted to relay that information. I dont know what happened to the original one but it definitely had some dimensional issues.

Now for the question, I am headed to Homestead raceway next week and the straight is over 300' long!! from what i hear it is a engine killer what are some suggestions to help keep me from granading my engine? shims, fuel, gearing etc etc? Thanx in advance BTW i run VP 25%
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:18 AM   #250
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
Some info and a question:
So i ordered a new XZ-r about a month ago and had a REAL tough time getting it to break in, burned up a box and it kept leaking out of the head gasket??? SO i set it aside and purchased a Kangaroo (i needed a back up anyway) . Well since I am trying to make the Pan Am nats next week i didnt want to bother messing with warranty and all of that hoopla. So i purchased a new piston and liner. Came in yesterday and it was not the same as the original. The new one had the chrome plating all the way into the port and was masked off for a perfect finish while the old one seemed like it had overspray of the plating into the port.. Also the bore finish was different, the original looked like a honed finish while the new one looks polished. Well this one is breaking in perfect and runs beautiful so far! just wanted to relay that information. I dont know what happened to the original one but it definitely had some dimensional issues.

Now for the question, I am headed to Homestead raceway next week and the straight is over 300' long!! from what i hear it is a engine killer what are some suggestions to help keep me from granading my engine? shims, fuel, gearing etc etc? Thanx in advance BTW i run VP 25%
Don't run your engine too lean. Use a cold glowplug. You can also look at adding head clearance. Also have the engine fully broken in.
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:10 AM   #251
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Don't run your engine too lean. Use a cold glowplug. You can also look at adding head clearance. Also have the engine fully broken in.
Sounds good, kinda what i was thinking. What is your definition of fully broken in? I already added an extra silver shiim.
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:16 AM   #252
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Sounds good, kinda what i was thinking. What is your definition of fully broken in? I already added an extra silver shiim.
The engine is fully run in when the piston does not feel tight at top dead center when you turn the crank over quickly by hand. You can turn the engine over slowly, and feel some tightness. This lasts for a longer time. Usually the engine is fully run in after 1 to 2 gallons.
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:44 AM   #253
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The engine is fully run in when the piston does not feel tight at top dead center when you turn the crank over quickly by hand. You can turn the engine over slowly, and feel some tightness. This lasts for a longer time. Usually the engine is fully run in after 1 to 2 gallons.
OK, well i am close , there is about 3.5mm of "polish" on the liner and with ARO i can turn it over with no plug but with the plug in its still pretty tight. a couple of tanks and i should be there. what are your thoughts on the third needle? Also how does this engine like to be geared? I can let it wind out or i can lug it, this track has a 300' straight? I had first gear really low on break in and it would blister the tires with anything over 50% throttle coming out of the turns, but didnt get a chance to test second gear and its been raining so I am pretty much going to have to dial it in at the track when i get to Florida.
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:15 AM   #254
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
OK, well i am close , there is about 3.5mm of "polish" on the liner and with ARO i can turn it over with no plug but with the plug in its still pretty tight. a couple of tanks and i should be there. what are your thoughts on the third needle? Also how does this engine like to be geared? I can let it wind out or i can lug it, this track has a 300' straight? I had first gear really low on break in and it would blister the tires with anything over 50% throttle coming out of the turns, but didnt get a chance to test second gear and its been raining so I am pretty much going to have to dial it in at the track when i get to Florida.
Uriah is correct, you need to run it in more for it to be fully broken in. The fit on these is very snug when new so take your time and don't lean it too much. Top speed will come when it's broken in.

As for the 'third needle', leave it alone. Unless you have a great deal of tuning experience it's easy to get way off with settings when you start moving it.

The 'third needle' is actually the spray bar that the low speed needle goes into at idle and low speed. It also controls overall metering due to it's position in the venturi. They are set at the factory and any adjustment to them at the track is slight and has to be coupled with adjusting the other needles as well.

Keep the gearing conservative until it's broken in. Once it's freed up, you can let it rev more on the straight.
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:18 PM   #255
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Thanx guys, wish me luck!
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