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Old 09-07-2004, 09:08 PM   #1
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Default What is the best way to break in a new ening?

What is the best way to break in a new ening?
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Old 09-07-2004, 09:22 PM   #2
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Default Re: What is the best way to break in a new ening?

Quote:
Originally posted by adsl
What is the best way to break in a new ening?
This is my recopilation from different sources of the ideal method to Break-In engines, which I use succesfully.
Hope it helps
AFM



Idling an engine and letting it run slow, 1/4, 1/2 throttle is incorrect. You want Wide Open Throttle after it warms up. YES Wide Open Throttle, even when it is brand new. This is in order to bring the engine up to temp. and fit the sleeve to what it was designed to run at. Anything less, and you are just leading your engine to an early death.

Yes, running at WOT slightly rich, but not 4 stroking rich is the proper way to do it. Here is some further explanation of ” the way”, and why it is the proper way.

As for break-in, there is a whole lot of misunderstanding about this basic engine operation. I have read and studied a lot of information on this, and also talked to experts like Dave Gierke , Ron Paris, Stephen Bess, Clarence Lee, etc, in the research I have done over the last few years.
It will take some time to convince yourself to bring a new engine to WOT, but when you start to understand it and why it is correct, you will realize just how many people are completely breaking the engine totally incorrectly.

It’s important to learn the theory about how these engines run (2 stroke ABC, ABN, AAC), and how to break them in, especially because I see WAY TOO MANY people using the wrong procedure of idling many tanks of fuel through the engine. That is unnecessary and damaging.

Although we use the term “break-in”, by its word alone it is misleading because people wrongly assume it means to slowly and gradually bring an engine to tune by idling tanks of fuel, but you will see why this is incorrect and unnecessarily wastes fuel too! Please be patient and read further to understand.

These engines use a sleeve around the piston to make the seal (piston doesn't have a ring) and it operates properly only with sufficient heat so that the sleeve can expand to its designed operating size and fit. All engines will be tight, especially when new, so on the initial runs, you want to have it get up to temp, so it can run how it is was designed to. By idling tanks and tanks through, overly rich and cool, the sleeve just wears MORE against the piston because it is not hot enough to expand to its operating size. And by doing that you are prematurely wearing out and ruining your engine. The piston/sleeve is designed to operate at running temps. Not doing this by running cool and rich on the bench leads to premature wear. By idling away tanks of fuel I GUARANTEE you are doing more harm than good. As long as the engine is warmed up first, you don’t have to drag out bringing it up to temp when it is brand new. It wont hurt or damage the working parts. These engines are very simple 2 stroke machines. They do not have extensive moving parts such as valves, cams, lifters, springs, etc. (like 4 strokers) so all this extra gentle, rich, cool operation is completely unnecessary (and worse it’s harmful). HOWEVER, the sleeve around the piston can be a delicate thing to maintain, and it is not forgiving of improper treatment, and improper treatment of a piston and sleeve is running it at a temp it is not designed for. (either too cold or too hot, both are just as detrimental) Most often this is done by running it too rich which makes it too cold because the rich mixture doesn't generate enough combustion heat for proper sleeve expansion. Just as damaging can be an excessively lean run. If it is run overly lean for any length of time it will destroy the sleeve. (that is why fuels with castor oil as part of the lube mix are very good because they tolerate the too high heat of a very lean run and will help to save the sleeve if it is not run too lean for too long (but avoiding a lean run is essential when you know enough about engine tuning to avoid it).

Running a 2 stroke engine slow and rich makes it '4 stroke' which means it fires every other revolution, and that generates even less heat. It causes damage and wastes fuel as well. Most important is to 'heat cycle' the engine at least 10 times to relieve the parts of manufacturing stresses. HEAT CYCLING REALLY IS WHAT BREAK IN IS ALL ABOUT. (I even think break-in should be called “Initial Heat Cycling” instead so that people understand what and why they are doing it.)

Run the engine in a bench for 2 - 3 minutes at full throttle (yes, WOT, don’t baby it), after briefly warming up of course, and then shut down and repeat after the engine has fully cooled. Let it cool down completely. Heat cycling is the name of the game. You want it to come up to temp for a brief time, and cool down and repeat. After shutting down, adjust the flywheel so that the piston is at BDC (bottom dead center) so that it does not get stuck in the contracting/cooling sleeve, as can often happen. (If the piston should accidentally get stuck in the sleeve, preheat the cylinder to free the piston from the sleeve.). Follow this procedure for at least 3 tanks, then put the engine on the car and do another 3 tanks at the track to finish Break-in, leaning the engine a bit after every run

During these initial runs YOU WANT the temps to be at least 90° C but not above 109° C.
After break-in, running temps above 109°C is fine. In fact new generation nitro engines perform best when run at 120°C – 130°C. Below those temps they are less efficient and less powerful.
However, going by the mixture is more important than trying to measure temp with heat guns, etc. which you may wind up doing inconsistently. The mixture setting on the High Speed Needle is critical in the first runs. It should be a rich and not lean setting. However it should not be so rich that it 4 strokes.

Also, to start a brand new engine it is very worthwhile to preheat the engine with a heat gun or hair dryer if it has a very tight piston/sleeve fit and you are having trouble turning it over to start it up. This will expand the sleeve some, and when you turn it over the piston will not excessively rub, or even get stuck in the sleeve (as sometimes can happen). Preheating really works well. You do want to run it on the rich side, but you want it to come up to temp also, just not more than 2-3 minutes in beginning runs, in order to keep temps around 109°C. Listen carefully to the exhaust noise or ‘note’, as you do not want it to be ‘4 stroking’. If it is, it needs to be leaned slowly until it runs 2 stroke. You can tell it is 4 stroking if it is very “boggy” and “hesitant” in acceleration and running. If it is making that “burbling” sound then it is 4 stroking which means it is running too rich and therefore too cold.

Everyone thinks they have to run it super cool and check to be sure temps are low. That's not what it is about. The reverse is true! Cool operation is damaging operation. Little, if any, break-in will occur unless it is heat cycled properly.

The manufactures can’t make a piston/sleeve turn over smoothly at room temp, because when the engine runs the sleeve will expand and there will be no seal at operating temp. See how that makes sense?!

So preheat it if necessary and don't run it cool, and heat cycle it, and you'll be good to go! After you have done this several times then you can gradually lean out the HSN to get best performance, but it should then be richened up just rich of peak to ensure it lasts long too. Running it at max peak rpm will lead to the shortest useful life of the piston and sleeve. If racing that is fine but if you are just playing you may want to run just a little richer than that peak setting. After the HSN is set then it is time to set the low and/or mid range needles and idling setting.

I see a lot of people idle the engine for a tank and then they let it cool off thinking that they are "heat cycling" it. However, because they are not running it up to WOT it is not generating enough heat to be of any use to a break-in/heat cycle. So, inadvertently by idling they are just letting the engine sleeve and piston wear away from the cold tight fit that they are allowing to happen when idling away on the bench. Research has shown that basically no break-in effect takes place AT ALL unless the engine is allowed to come up to operating temp for 2 minutes. So if you are idling away and then let it cool there is zero break-in/heat cycle benefit. But if you want to wear away the sleeve and piston fit then idling will definitely do it for you.

As you’ve read, there are a number of reasons why I disagree with conventional break-in methods, but the most important are:

1) Heat cycling- rich and slow means not enough heat.

2) Aluminum connecting rod stretches. If you break in a motor with aluminum rods at low RPMs, and begin the mating of the piston and sleeve (since r/c motors don't have rings), then when you go to WOT the piston actually goes higher than it did during break-in and begins to destroy the surfaces not used.

I hope this is helpful!!


This is what Rody Roem from RB Concept says for Break-In

Before you start to Break-in an engine on the bench, I suggest you cover the cooling-head with something, so the engine heats-up properly FOR ONE TANK at idle (without the cover the engine will stay too cold).

Then start the engine and let it run rich at full throttle with or without the cover (depending on temp):
2-tanks at about 80°C.
Then 2 more tanks at 90°C.
Then 1 more tank at 100°C.

After this your engine is almost run-in, however you need to finish the rest of the Break-in in the car for about 2 more tanks tuning your needles for max power and you are then ready to go.

With the engine at full-throttle, you are sure that the idle needle is not in front of the spray bar, so you are running the engine really on the setting of the main-needle and you’re also sure the engine will run rich. Also more fuel/air will go through the engine at full throttle so there’s better lubrication.
DON’T FORGET TO COOL-OFF YOUR ENGINE COMPLETELY AFTER EVERY TANK.
Rody Roem
RB Concept Engines
This is what Andrea Rossi from Sirio says for Break-In
This is the correct Break-In procedure for the Sirio S12 Evo2

1.- One (1) tank in the bench at WOT with very rich setting of HSN, avoiding it to go on 4 stroke.
COOL DOWN
2.- Three (3) tanks on the track at WOT on the main straight with very rich setting of HSN, as if the engine wants to die, and tuning the HSN at the end of third tank to get almost full power.
COOL DOWN AFTER EVERY TANK
3.- For 20% Nitro, use .20 head shim and N° 7 Glow plug.

After that, the engine will give more power every new tank.

Which means that Breaking-In Sirios, should be done with more or less 300 to 500cc of fuel.
Andrea Rossi
Star Motor Corp.
THIS IS WHAT JOSH CYRUL FROM KYOSHO SAYS ABOUT WOT BREAK-IN ON THE CAR
In the area of engine break-in, there are several different procedures that have been used over the years. Different manufactures, top drivers, and hobby store experts all vary in their opinion as to which is best. Over the past 10+ years of nitro racing I have found this procedure to give me good results in both areas of on-track performance as well as reliability.
Install the new engine into your chassis complete with clutch and ready to go as if you were going to race. Take a screwdriver, glow igniter, starter box, and a full bottle of fuel to a remote area where you won't annoy anyone with a running engine. Start your engine and allow it to warm up with several short ½ throttle “blips”. Once your engine has some temperature in it you can begin the break-in process. Start by opening the top end needle 1 full turn. Open the carburetor to full throttle and hold it there. Open the top end needle until the engine flames out. From here, close the top end needle ¼ turn and restart the engine again running it at full throttle. Run the engine full throttle for 3 tanks and shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes. Once the engine has cooled down, run through the same process again for two additional tanks. On the third tank close the top end needle by ¼ of a turn. Instead of holding the engine at full throttle, start using the throttle by doing 2-3 second bursts of full throttle. Once you have done this for ½ of the tank close the top end needle another ¼ of a turn and continue throttling the engine. Continue closing the top end needle ¼ turn per every ½ tank of fuel. Do this until you have run a grand total of 8 tanks through your engine and then shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes and then you are ready to hit the race track. Drive two tanks rich around the track slowly closing the top end needle sneaking up on that perfect mixture. At the end of the second tank your engine should be tuned to race speed. This will give you a total of 10 tanks of fuel through your engine before you really start to lean the mixture for ultimate power.
The reasoning behind this break-in procedure is that there is always a large volume of fuel flowing through the engine. Large volume of fuel means plenty of oil and lubrication for the break in process. This also helps flush out any burrs or small pieces of material that may have been left over from the manufacturing of the engine. Also, the engine has a load placed on it by trying to cycle all of the fuel through it – somewhat similar to the load that you will put on it out on the track when you try to power your car around the track. Last, the engine is broke in with rpm – if you break the engine in at idle then you will not be seating the piston, sleeve, and connecting rod at anywhere near the rpm that it will have to be ready for out on the race track.
This is the procedure that I have used with good success over the years of nitro racing. When I've hurried the break-in process I have had some engines last 30 minutes to 4 hours of racing. When I've taken my time and run through this process I've run engines as long as 16 hours of racing!! Yep, same piston and sleeve!!!! Be patient and have fun!!
Good Luck!!
Josh Cyrul
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Old 09-07-2004, 10:49 PM   #3
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what is 4 stroking runnig in break in prodedure?
please describe it in more detail.


Avoid it or take it?


Tks
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Old 09-08-2004, 06:47 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by adsl
what is 4 stroking runnig in break in prodedure?
please describe it in more detail.


Avoid it or take it?


Tks
I'll do my best, her it goes.....

4 stroking... engine sounds like..... brrrrrrrrrrr (low pitch bogging sound)
2 stroking....engine sound like......wiiiiiinnnn (high pitch revving sound)

You must avoid 4 stroking...it kills your conrod bushing.

Hope i made myself clear....wheew

AFM
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Old 09-08-2004, 07:07 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by afm
I'll do my best, her it goes.....

4 stroking... engine sounds like..... brrrrrrrrrrr (low pitch bogging sound)
2 stroking....engine sound like......wiiiiiinnnn (high pitch revving sound)

You must avoid 4 stroking...it kills your conrod bushing.

Hope i made myself clear....wheew

AFM
Cool....
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Old 09-08-2004, 08:14 AM   #6
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That was one of the most amazingly useful and informative readings i've had in a long time.

Next time i break in an engine, im gonna do it that way...
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Old 09-08-2004, 04:14 PM   #7
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What kind of prop (or fan) will fit on an sg shaft engine and where can I get one for breaking in my engine? Thanks
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Old 02-09-2005, 09:17 PM   #8
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Default WOT - Wide Open Throttle???

Can someone confirm this. During breaking in a engine or heat cycling, It says to run the engine full throttle for 2-3 minutes (WOT). Is this full throttle all the time once engine temp is hot enough or just revving it to full throttle every few seconds?
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Old 02-09-2005, 09:29 PM   #9
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Default Re: WOT - Wide Open Throttle???

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Originally posted by danjoy25
Can someone confirm this. During breaking in a engine or heat cycling, It says to run the engine full throttle for 2-3 minutes (WOT). Is this full throttle all the time once engine temp is hot enough or just revving it to full throttle every few seconds?
dan, i have never broken an engine in that way, but i use a similar method that is approved of josh cyrul. you cant beat that http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/break-in/index.php
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Old 02-09-2005, 09:48 PM   #10
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Default Re: Re: What is the best way to break in a new ening?

Quote:
Originally posted by afm
This is my recopilation from different sources of the ideal method to Break-In engines, which I use succesfully.
Hope it helps
AFM



Idling an engine and letting it run slow, 1/4, 1/2 throttle is incorrect. You want Wide Open Throttle after it warms up. YES Wide Open Throttle, even when it is brand new. This is in order to bring the engine up to temp. and fit the sleeve to what it was designed to run at. Anything less, and you are just leading your engine to an early death.

Yes, running at WOT slightly rich, but not 4 stroking rich is the proper way to do it. Here is some further explanation of ” the way”, and why it is the proper way.

As for break-in, there is a whole lot of misunderstanding about this basic engine operation. I have read and studied a lot of information on this, and also talked to experts like Dave Gierke , Ron Paris, Stephen Bess, Clarence Lee, etc, in the research I have done over the last few years.
It will take some time to convince yourself to bring a new engine to WOT, but when you start to understand it and why it is correct, you will realize just how many people are completely breaking the engine totally incorrectly.

It’s important to learn the theory about how these engines run (2 stroke ABC, ABN, AAC), and how to break them in, especially because I see WAY TOO MANY people using the wrong procedure of idling many tanks of fuel through the engine. That is unnecessary and damaging.

Although we use the term “break-in”, by its word alone it is misleading because people wrongly assume it means to slowly and gradually bring an engine to tune by idling tanks of fuel, but you will see why this is incorrect and unnecessarily wastes fuel too! Please be patient and read further to understand.

These engines use a sleeve around the piston to make the seal (piston doesn't have a ring) and it operates properly only with sufficient heat so that the sleeve can expand to its designed operating size and fit. All engines will be tight, especially when new, so on the initial runs, you want to have it get up to temp, so it can run how it is was designed to. By idling tanks and tanks through, overly rich and cool, the sleeve just wears MORE against the piston because it is not hot enough to expand to its operating size. And by doing that you are prematurely wearing out and ruining your engine. The piston/sleeve is designed to operate at running temps. Not doing this by running cool and rich on the bench leads to premature wear. By idling away tanks of fuel I GUARANTEE you are doing more harm than good. As long as the engine is warmed up first, you don’t have to drag out bringing it up to temp when it is brand new. It wont hurt or damage the working parts. These engines are very simple 2 stroke machines. They do not have extensive moving parts such as valves, cams, lifters, springs, etc. (like 4 strokers) so all this extra gentle, rich, cool operation is completely unnecessary (and worse it’s harmful). HOWEVER, the sleeve around the piston can be a delicate thing to maintain, and it is not forgiving of improper treatment, and improper treatment of a piston and sleeve is running it at a temp it is not designed for. (either too cold or too hot, both are just as detrimental) Most often this is done by running it too rich which makes it too cold because the rich mixture doesn't generate enough combustion heat for proper sleeve expansion. Just as damaging can be an excessively lean run. If it is run overly lean for any length of time it will destroy the sleeve. (that is why fuels with castor oil as part of the lube mix are very good because they tolerate the too high heat of a very lean run and will help to save the sleeve if it is not run too lean for too long (but avoiding a lean run is essential when you know enough about engine tuning to avoid it).

Running a 2 stroke engine slow and rich makes it '4 stroke' which means it fires every other revolution, and that generates even less heat. It causes damage and wastes fuel as well. Most important is to 'heat cycle' the engine at least 10 times to relieve the parts of manufacturing stresses. HEAT CYCLING REALLY IS WHAT BREAK IN IS ALL ABOUT. (I even think break-in should be called “Initial Heat Cycling” instead so that people understand what and why they are doing it.)

Run the engine in a bench for 2 - 3 minutes at full throttle (yes, WOT, don’t baby it), after briefly warming up of course, and then shut down and repeat after the engine has fully cooled. Let it cool down completely. Heat cycling is the name of the game. You want it to come up to temp for a brief time, and cool down and repeat. After shutting down, adjust the flywheel so that the piston is at BDC (bottom dead center) so that it does not get stuck in the contracting/cooling sleeve, as can often happen. (If the piston should accidentally get stuck in the sleeve, preheat the cylinder to free the piston from the sleeve.). Follow this procedure for at least 3 tanks, then put the engine on the car and do another 3 tanks at the track to finish Break-in, leaning the engine a bit after every run

During these initial runs YOU WANT the temps to be at least 90° C but not above 109° C.
After break-in, running temps above 109°C is fine. In fact new generation nitro engines perform best when run at 120°C – 130°C. Below those temps they are less efficient and less powerful.
However, going by the mixture is more important than trying to measure temp with heat guns, etc. which you may wind up doing inconsistently. The mixture setting on the High Speed Needle is critical in the first runs. It should be a rich and not lean setting. However it should not be so rich that it 4 strokes.

Also, to start a brand new engine it is very worthwhile to preheat the engine with a heat gun or hair dryer if it has a very tight piston/sleeve fit and you are having trouble turning it over to start it up. This will expand the sleeve some, and when you turn it over the piston will not excessively rub, or even get stuck in the sleeve (as sometimes can happen). Preheating really works well. You do want to run it on the rich side, but you want it to come up to temp also, just not more than 2-3 minutes in beginning runs, in order to keep temps around 109°C. Listen carefully to the exhaust noise or ‘note’, as you do not want it to be ‘4 stroking’. If it is, it needs to be leaned slowly until it runs 2 stroke. You can tell it is 4 stroking if it is very “boggy” and “hesitant” in acceleration and running. If it is making that “burbling” sound then it is 4 stroking which means it is running too rich and therefore too cold.

Everyone thinks they have to run it super cool and check to be sure temps are low. That's not what it is about. The reverse is true! Cool operation is damaging operation. Little, if any, break-in will occur unless it is heat cycled properly.

The manufactures can’t make a piston/sleeve turn over smoothly at room temp, because when the engine runs the sleeve will expand and there will be no seal at operating temp. See how that makes sense?!

So preheat it if necessary and don't run it cool, and heat cycle it, and you'll be good to go! After you have done this several times then you can gradually lean out the HSN to get best performance, but it should then be richened up just rich of peak to ensure it lasts long too. Running it at max peak rpm will lead to the shortest useful life of the piston and sleeve. If racing that is fine but if you are just playing you may want to run just a little richer than that peak setting. After the HSN is set then it is time to set the low and/or mid range needles and idling setting.

I see a lot of people idle the engine for a tank and then they let it cool off thinking that they are "heat cycling" it. However, because they are not running it up to WOT it is not generating enough heat to be of any use to a break-in/heat cycle. So, inadvertently by idling they are just letting the engine sleeve and piston wear away from the cold tight fit that they are allowing to happen when idling away on the bench. Research has shown that basically no break-in effect takes place AT ALL unless the engine is allowed to come up to operating temp for 2 minutes. So if you are idling away and then let it cool there is zero break-in/heat cycle benefit. But if you want to wear away the sleeve and piston fit then idling will definitely do it for you.

As you’ve read, there are a number of reasons why I disagree with conventional break-in methods, but the most important are:

1) Heat cycling- rich and slow means not enough heat.

2) Aluminum connecting rod stretches. If you break in a motor with aluminum rods at low RPMs, and begin the mating of the piston and sleeve (since r/c motors don't have rings), then when you go to WOT the piston actually goes higher than it did during break-in and begins to destroy the surfaces not used.

I hope this is helpful!!


This is what Rody Roem from RB Concept says for Break-In

Before you start to Break-in an engine on the bench, I suggest you cover the cooling-head with something, so the engine heats-up properly FOR ONE TANK at idle (without the cover the engine will stay too cold).

Then start the engine and let it run rich at full throttle with or without the cover (depending on temp):
2-tanks at about 80°C.
Then 2 more tanks at 90°C.
Then 1 more tank at 100°C.

After this your engine is almost run-in, however you need to finish the rest of the Break-in in the car for about 2 more tanks tuning your needles for max power and you are then ready to go.

With the engine at full-throttle, you are sure that the idle needle is not in front of the spray bar, so you are running the engine really on the setting of the main-needle and you’re also sure the engine will run rich. Also more fuel/air will go through the engine at full throttle so there’s better lubrication.
DON’T FORGET TO COOL-OFF YOUR ENGINE COMPLETELY AFTER EVERY TANK.
Rody Roem
RB Concept Engines
This is what Andrea Rossi from Sirio says for Break-In
This is the correct Break-In procedure for the Sirio S12 Evo2

1.- One (1) tank in the bench at WOT with very rich setting of HSN, avoiding it to go on 4 stroke.
COOL DOWN
2.- Three (3) tanks on the track at WOT on the main straight with very rich setting of HSN, as if the engine wants to die, and tuning the HSN at the end of third tank to get almost full power.
COOL DOWN AFTER EVERY TANK
3.- For 20% Nitro, use .20 head shim and N° 7 Glow plug.

After that, the engine will give more power every new tank.

Which means that Breaking-In Sirios, should be done with more or less 300 to 500cc of fuel.
Andrea Rossi
Star Motor Corp.
THIS IS WHAT JOSH CYRUL FROM KYOSHO SAYS ABOUT WOT BREAK-IN ON THE CAR
In the area of engine break-in, there are several different procedures that have been used over the years. Different manufactures, top drivers, and hobby store experts all vary in their opinion as to which is best. Over the past 10+ years of nitro racing I have found this procedure to give me good results in both areas of on-track performance as well as reliability.
Install the new engine into your chassis complete with clutch and ready to go as if you were going to race. Take a screwdriver, glow igniter, starter box, and a full bottle of fuel to a remote area where you won't annoy anyone with a running engine. Start your engine and allow it to warm up with several short ½ throttle “blips”. Once your engine has some temperature in it you can begin the break-in process. Start by opening the top end needle 1 full turn. Open the carburetor to full throttle and hold it there. Open the top end needle until the engine flames out. From here, close the top end needle ¼ turn and restart the engine again running it at full throttle. Run the engine full throttle for 3 tanks and shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes. Once the engine has cooled down, run through the same process again for two additional tanks. On the third tank close the top end needle by ¼ of a turn. Instead of holding the engine at full throttle, start using the throttle by doing 2-3 second bursts of full throttle. Once you have done this for ½ of the tank close the top end needle another ¼ of a turn and continue throttling the engine. Continue closing the top end needle ¼ turn per every ½ tank of fuel. Do this until you have run a grand total of 8 tanks through your engine and then shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes and then you are ready to hit the race track. Drive two tanks rich around the track slowly closing the top end needle sneaking up on that perfect mixture. At the end of the second tank your engine should be tuned to race speed. This will give you a total of 10 tanks of fuel through your engine before you really start to lean the mixture for ultimate power.
The reasoning behind this break-in procedure is that there is always a large volume of fuel flowing through the engine. Large volume of fuel means plenty of oil and lubrication for the break in process. This also helps flush out any burrs or small pieces of material that may have been left over from the manufacturing of the engine. Also, the engine has a load placed on it by trying to cycle all of the fuel through it – somewhat similar to the load that you will put on it out on the track when you try to power your car around the track. Last, the engine is broke in with rpm – if you break the engine in at idle then you will not be seating the piston, sleeve, and connecting rod at anywhere near the rpm that it will have to be ready for out on the race track.
This is the procedure that I have used with good success over the years of nitro racing. When I've hurried the break-in process I have had some engines last 30 minutes to 4 hours of racing. When I've taken my time and run through this process I've run engines as long as 16 hours of racing!! Yep, same piston and sleeve!!!! Be patient and have fun!!
Good Luck!!
Josh Cyrul
afm, your break in method described by josh cyrul contradicts your whole thinking of running the engine at race temperature. because for the first three tanks or so the engine temps are under 50C because the engine is very badly 4 stroking, although your thinking of the race temp is VERY interesting. i will try it the next time i break in an engine
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Old 02-09-2005, 09:59 PM   #11
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Default Re: Re: Re: What is the best way to break in a new ening?

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Originally posted by Team-RTR
afm, your break in method described by josh cyrul contradicts your whole thinking of running the engine at race temperature. because for the first three tanks or so the engine temps are under 50C because the engine is very badly 4 stroking.
It doesn't contradict anything...I just posted 4 methods of
break-in; one by Gierke (bench WOT), another one by Andrea Rossi (Sirio), another one by Rody Roem (RB Concepts), and finally one by Josh Cyrul.
I've used the Gierke method, which is in agreement to what Sirio suggested. and I use this method because I have a running bench, and it says cearly not to run engine on 4 stroke.
And to get engine to temp, you must cover head with aluminum foil, like Rody Roem suggests......where is my contradiction...I don't use Cyrul's method...it's up to you to choose the method which you trust.

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Old 02-09-2005, 10:01 PM   #12
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Default Re: WOT - Wide Open Throttle???

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Originally posted by danjoy25
Can someone confirm this. During breaking in a engine or heat cycling, It says to run the engine full throttle for 2-3 minutes (WOT). Is this full throttle all the time once engine temp is hot enough or just revving it to full throttle every few seconds?
Run it at full throttle for a few tanks as it says.

This method is great and the power that i have gotton out of my engine with this method is awsome.

Thanks Team RTR
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Old 02-09-2005, 10:03 PM   #13
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i used the cyrul method once. it consists of you richening the motor at WOT until it flames out. at this point you are upto 4 or 5 turn out from factory settings which means your engine is running at about 40-50C. i did not mean to offend you in any way afm i am just pointing out something that i noticed with the break in method you have posted by josh cyrul which i have found to be successful, but i am highly interested in your prescribed methods of running at race temp.
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Old 02-09-2005, 10:05 PM   #14
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Default Re: Re: WOT - Wide Open Throttle???

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Originally posted by TRAJ
Run it at full throttle for a few tanks as it says.

This method is great and the power that i have gotton out of my engine with this method is awsome.

Thanks Team RTR
Would there be a possibility of the conrod snapping with this procedure.?
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Old 02-09-2005, 10:14 PM   #15
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I wouldnt say so.

It is recommended to replace the conrod after run in anyway.
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