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Old 08-30-2004, 05:52 PM   #1
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Default mugen x12 manual online

i need the manual for it online.
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Old 08-30-2004, 06:26 PM   #2
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There is no "manual" Only two sheets that include an parts list and an exploded view. If you need either of these, give me your email and I will scan them and send them to you that way.
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Old 08-30-2004, 06:26 PM   #3
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which one is the idle screw low speed and mid range?

Last edited by Bxclip; 08-31-2004 at 10:34 AM.
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Old 08-31-2004, 10:35 AM   #4
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is 20% gs good for this engien or what shoudl i use?
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Old 08-31-2004, 11:58 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bxlip
which one is the idle screw low speed and mid range?
Wait.....are you talking about the setting of those needles? Or you are asking which one is which?

Last edited by Rookie Solara; 08-31-2004 at 12:09 PM.
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Old 08-31-2004, 12:45 PM   #6
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firs twhich one is which and settign mtie helplol and yo how long does this engien surpose ot last liek in how many gallows of 20% fuel?
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Old 08-31-2004, 01:49 PM   #7
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OH... remember, you don't want to touch those needles too much on a new engine. depending on your breakin method, you may have to just open the hi-end needle 1/2. but that varies, so do as much research as you need so you don't hurt the engine too bad

late!
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Old 08-31-2004, 06:10 PM   #8
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thanx but what break in method should i use? im no sure i need help and hwo shoudl i adjust the needles to that break in method?
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Old 09-01-2004, 09:52 AM   #9
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I use a heat treat method.

I'll wrap foil around the head and let it idle for one tank @ about 180* F. Let it cool for 15 min (remember to move the piston to the bottom). Then I'll run it for another tank going WOT @ about 200* F. Let cool for 15 min. Then just keep doing the same for about 4-6 more tanks.

Take off the foil and you'll notice it runs too cold. This is when I start leaning it out to about 200* F.

Well, this is how I do it and it seems to work for me so far. You might want some other suggestions though from the pros.
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Old 09-02-2004, 07:32 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by James Y
I use a heat treat method.

I'll wrap foil around the head and let it idle for one tank @ about 180* F. Let it cool for 15 min (remember to move the piston to the bottom). Then I'll run it for another tank going WOT @ about 200* F. Let cool for 15 min. Then just keep doing the same for about 4-6 more tanks.

Take off the foil and you'll notice it runs too cold. This is when I start leaning it out to about 200* F.

Well, this is how I do it and it seems to work for me so far. You might want some other suggestions though from the pros.
your method is not far from the one that i have adopted . bxclip. notice that that method requires a temp gun of some sort. fortunately there are some relatively inexpensive options on the market.
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Old 09-02-2004, 09:57 AM   #11
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wheres the cheapest temp gun?
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Old 09-02-2004, 09:58 AM   #12
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do i do this witht he wheels of the ground or what?
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Old 09-02-2004, 10:03 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bxclip
wheres the cheapest temp gun?
i don't know exactly where, but your lhs or ebay may help. duratrax makes one, but there is another company (i forget the name) that has the same exact unit - less the duratrax logo - for about $25-$30. they give you a metal case and an extra battery too.
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Old 09-02-2004, 10:34 AM   #14
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so put foil on geine
dam thi car is comin otu to cost mroe htne expected now i need a temp gun
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Old 09-02-2004, 11:05 AM   #15
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No you don't "need" a temp gun. Just don't let it get too hot. You can touch the head lightly from time to time to check the temp. Or just a dropper with water and put a drop of water on the head. The water should not boil since it boils at 215 degrees. You can set your oven the 200 degrees before and use that to see what it feels like. Remember, a light quick touch is all it takes. Then rub your fingers together. You won't feel the heat much until you rub. Do this at your own risk. I have used this method before without burning myself
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