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Old 12-23-2004, 03:33 PM   #46
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Dino I am adding to my car collection with a buggy to run in the of season of t/c and where can i get a buggy pipe and then a 21. Other than PZen

Hey au_Nightmare how is the .21
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Old 12-23-2004, 03:33 PM   #47
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ooops
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Old 12-27-2004, 07:35 AM   #48
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Default D21B Problems

What does this mean?

Engine cranks right up, idles great... run a tank... everything is fine. Then go to run again... motor cranks right up, 1/2 throttle blip is all good... as soon as you try to fully clear it out it kinda makes a bog sound then wants to backfire (sometime does)... put it on the track... everything is ok, hit the straight... go WOT and POW backfire then it dies.

Motor is pretty new. me and my friends motor does the same thing... his starts to act weird at about 1/2 tank.

Running Sidewinder 30% & a RB6 plug
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Old 12-27-2004, 07:49 AM   #49
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Default Re: D21B Problems

Quote:
Originally posted by TMizzle
What does this mean?

Engine cranks right up, idles great... run a tank... everything is fine. Then go to run again... motor cranks right up, 1/2 throttle blip is all good... as soon as you try to fully clear it out it kinda makes a bog sound then wants to backfire (sometime does)... put it on the track... everything is ok, hit the straight... go WOT and POW backfire then it dies.

Motor is pretty new. me and my friends motor does the same thing... his starts to act weird at about 1/2 tank.

Running Sidewinder 30% & a RB6 plug
Low compression.
The stock shims are one 0.3mm(silver) and one 0.2mm(brass).
Only use total 0.3mm shim after break-in. The stock setting is good for break-in. You will not damage your engine if you use high % nitro and maybe don't know you need to add shim.
Also I would like to suggest you to use long body plug.
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Old 12-27-2004, 07:53 AM   #50
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I am running the extra shim that came with the motor, i even broke it in with that way. I think i have a total of 3 shims in there now... the 2 stock and the extra one it came with.

so just run the 1 silver shim?
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Old 12-27-2004, 07:57 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally posted by TMizzle
I am running the extra shim that came with the motor, i even broke it in with that way. I think i have a total of 3 shims in there now... the 2 stock and the extra one it came with.

so just run the 1 silver shim?
3 shims

Yeah! the normal plug don't need that much shims.
If you are using turbo plug I would suggest you to add shims.
Turbo bead button is more sensitive to compression.
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Old 12-27-2004, 07:58 AM   #52
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oh ok! so take all but the silver one out and everything should be good?
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Old 12-27-2004, 08:06 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally posted by TMizzle
oh ok! so take all but the silver one out and everything should be good?
Try it!
It depend on the weather;altitude;air density.
I may try 0.2mm,if it works not good then back to 0.3mm.
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Old 12-27-2004, 04:51 PM   #54
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i tried the .3 head shim... the car ran better... but when the tank gets low on fuel the engine wants to die if i dont stay on the throttle.

Should i be running a hotter plug or should i go lower on the head shims to a .2?
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Old 12-27-2004, 06:44 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally posted by TMizzle
i tried the .3 head shim... the car ran better... but when the tank gets low on fuel the engine wants to die if i dont stay on the throttle.

Should i be running a hotter plug or should i go lower on the head shims to a .2?
Try #5 plug first. Also check if there is any leaking of your fuel tank/cap?back pressure line?manifold gaskets? Especially the gasket...
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Old 12-28-2004, 08:40 AM   #56
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I will try a #5... is that a hotter plug? If so, how about a MC59?

I am almost 100% sure there is no leaks because during my last race i had to take the D21B out and put in my RB S7 and it ran with no problems using the same pipe and fuel system.

My friend is having the exact same issues... car idles great and runs great until we go WOT then it acts like it has loaded up with fuel and wants to die.
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Old 12-28-2004, 09:06 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally posted by TMizzle
I will try a #5... is that a hotter plug? If so, how about a MC59?

I am almost 100% sure there is no leaks because during my last race i had to take the D21B out and put in my RB S7 and it ran with no problems using the same pipe and fuel system.

My friend is having the exact same issues... car idles great and runs great until we go WOT then it acts like it has loaded up with fuel and wants to die.
Yes,#5 is hotter than #6. Sorry I don't know much about MC59.

Because you have ever mentioned backfire that is why I ask you to check leaking. It usual happened when somewhere leaking,the back pressure is not normal or the serious dented pipes.

There is another way to check it out. Take out the back pressure line from the fuel tank cap,and plug up the back pressure line with a screw or something. Then try again to go WOT...

If it work better,that mean the back pressure is too big or the pipe not fit with your engine. Try to shorten the pipe may help. I knew some top guys even don't use back pressure on their buggy...

Try it! That is what I can say. I learn from what I have ever tried.

Last edited by dino.tw; 12-28-2004 at 09:12 AM.
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Old 12-28-2004, 02:47 PM   #58
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Dino when I get mine back from Pzen I am going to look at the same thing you have said I have allmost the same problems backfire some thimes too so i will keep you posted I know this is the wrong thread
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Old 12-29-2004, 04:40 PM   #59
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I am looking for an inexpensive on-road engine. Is there a .21 on-road version available yet?
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Old 12-30-2004, 10:14 AM   #60
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Where can i get one in the USA for the D21B and what performance increase will i see?
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