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So then really your just fine grinding the pistons for a blue printed fit and finish?, with a polished final surface finish?
You previous description of lapping the pistons were of a honing method/motion, which is why I assumed you were after some sort of cross hatched fine finish on the pistons. My mistake then I guess, I just assumed you were doing something more than just basic engine blueprinting, I'm sure the language barrier is not helping in that matter. :D |
Originally posted by Bishop So then really your just fine grinding the pistons for a blue printed fit and finish?, with a polished final surface finish? You previous description of lapping the pistons were of a honing method/motion, which is why I assumed you were after some sort of cross hatched fine finish on the pistons. My mistake then I guess, I just assumed you were doing something more than just basic engine blueprinting, I'm sure the language barrier is not helping in that matter. :D On sleeve yes it is neccessary polishing surface, but piston never polish it, the surface from grinding is realy good. Lapping is for only repair tight fit ( when it comes from factories overtight). I did many of factory made engines lapped and it is realy proven over the last 10 month, that life of P/S set 30-40 % longer, brak in period just one tank ( 30% open throtel reach), no conrod change after brak in etc. :nod: So we can call lapping as correctin action, but not primary. If manufacturers will make fit right initialy, it will be totaly different pictures in power, life etc. |
I suppose a fair few "budget" engines could benefit from it then, with the process making up for a lower overall build quality in general.
I have noticed that lower end RC engines do tend to recommend a longer break in cycle than higher spec models, meaning they probably do have to make up for worse original factory fitted spec parts. I think I may be pulling apart the next RC Nitro engine I buy, just to see just how close the factory tolerance is. I think I may even pass on the specs of that lapping tool of yours to an engineering friend of mine, could be handy to have something like that around to experiment with. |
Originally posted by Bishop I suppose a fair few "budget" engines could benefit from it then, with the process making up for a lower overall build quality in general. I have noticed that lower end RC engines do tend to recommend a longer break in cycle than higher spec models, meaning they probably do have to make up for worse original factory fitted spec parts. I think I may be pulling apart the next RC Nitro engine I buy, just to see just how close the factory tolerance is. I think I may even pass on the specs of that lapping tool of yours to an engineering friend of mine, could be handy to have something like that around to experiment with. I sugest to use lapping compaund 1500 grid, never use diamond base compaund, use silicon carbide oil based.:nod: |
Actually, my engineering friend owns and runs a machine shop, which is kind of what I meant when I said I'd take the specs/pics to him. :D
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Originally posted by Bishop Actually, my engineering friend owns and runs a machine shop, which is kind of what I meant when I said I'd take the specs/pics to him. :D |
You do have a friend with a machine shop Ed.:nod: If you can give me the specs of the laping tools that would be great. I want to make me one.
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Originally posted by nitrodude You do have a friend with a machine shop Ed.:nod: If you can give me the specs of the laping tools that would be great. I want to make me one. I will send you set of drawings for lapping tools. What machines do you have in your shop? |
We have a full machine shop. CNCs, surface grinders, EDM, lathe.... The usual stuff.
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@nitrodude & topgun: put me on the backorder list for these lapping tools also... :)
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