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Old 07-21-2010, 05:02 PM   #16
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Clutch gap of 0.42 set like described in the manual with 0.1 endplay.

Clutch was very good like this.
how do you measure the clutch gap? because when i put my clutchbell onto my clutch, it doesnt touch/rub?

so i dont know what is 'zero' or how many mm it is already pushed out.

im running the capricorn clutch by the way.. and it's brand new.. only ran 1 tank to test the clutch out.
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Old 07-21-2010, 05:15 PM   #17
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how do you measure the clutch gap? because when i put my clutchbell onto my clutch, it doesnt touch/rub?

so i dont know what is 'zero' or how many mm it is already pushed out.

im running the capricorn clutch by the way.. and it's brand new.. only ran 1 tank to test the clutch out.
If you don't have any shims between the clutch nut and the big bearing the clutchbell should touch the shoe.
If not check if you have enough preload on the spring, try at least 0.6mm otherwise the clutchbell will sit on the preload nut and the bell is unable to touch the shoe.
Another problem could be the big bearing isn't sitting far enough inside the clutchbell. I always help the bearings seat properly by giving them a small tap on the outside ring with a socket.

If all of this is ok and the bell still isn't touching the shoe shoot some pictures of the entire assembly without the shims and a step by step report how you build the clutch.
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Old 07-21-2010, 05:24 PM   #18
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when u measure your gap at .42 does it still rub the shoe alittle when its all put together it seems regardless of measurement if i shim enough to get the bell off the shoe the clutch doesnt want to engage fully it just slips around ive been palyin around with it and the only way i can get full engage is to let it touch the shoe just enough where u know thats it touching
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Old 07-21-2010, 05:38 PM   #19
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when u measure your gap at .42 does it still rub the shoe alittle when its all put together it seems regardless of measurement if i shim enough to get the bell off the shoe the clutch doesnt want to engage fully it just slips around ive been palyin around with it and the only way i can get full engage is to let it touch the shoe just enough where u know thats it touching
When the gap is 0.42 the shoe doesn't rub at all, I can clearly spot an airgap between the shoe and the bell with my bare eye.
To stop the clutch from slipping I would suggest starting out with 0mm of preload (after setting the gap of course) and go from there. It shouldn't slip with this setting, if it does there is a different problem, i.e. wrong measurement, little mistake during assembly.

If the clutch doesn't slip start giving it more preload until it starts slipping again, then back off the preload nut a quarter of a turn and your clutch should be perfect.
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Old 07-21-2010, 06:16 PM   #20
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cool thanks for the advise ill look at again and make sure all is good and let u know how it goes
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Old 07-22-2010, 02:38 PM   #21
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well i took it apart and everything was good except i had my spring at .9 i guess i just set it there as force of habbit from running the mugen clutch for so long witch obviously has a much weaker spring. Its engaging like a champ now with the tension reset to .2 i may have to back it off alittle more im still getting crazy wheel spin on the street but i figure ill wait till i get to the track to see how it does with some traction
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Old 07-23-2010, 05:33 AM   #22
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Ok, good to hear the problem got solved.
If your track has some decent traction ready yourself for some stupidly fast acceleration.
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Old 07-23-2010, 06:45 AM   #23
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If you don't have any shims between the clutch nut and the big bearing the clutchbell should touch the shoe.
If not check if you have enough preload on the spring, try at least 0.6mm otherwise the clutchbell will sit on the preload nut and the bell is unable to touch the shoe.
Another problem could be the big bearing isn't sitting far enough inside the clutchbell. I always help the bearings seat properly by giving them a small tap on the outside ring with a socket.

If all of this is ok and the bell still isn't touching the shoe shoot some pictures of the entire assembly without the shims and a step by step report how you build the clutch.
i will have a look, but i ran the car without any shims under there it was fine.

i think the problem was i didnt have enough pre-load though.. cos i did have my clutch extra soft!i will remeasure it to 0.5-0.6

may i ask out of curiousity how many shims u got under there?
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Old 07-25-2010, 05:34 PM   #24
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i will have a look, but i ran the car without any shims under there it was fine.

i think the problem was i didnt have enough pre-load though.. cos i did have my clutch extra soft!i will remeasure it to 0.5-0.6

may i ask out of curiousity how many shims u got under there?
I have 0.95 between the flywheel nut and the big bearing and 0.75 on the outside of the clutch against the thrust bearing.
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Old 07-27-2010, 02:04 PM   #25
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ok so after running this past weekend the clutch felt great with that setup DS thanks for the help that wasp motor has never felt so strong espcially in the infield
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Old 07-27-2010, 07:19 PM   #26
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DS; do you set your clutch gap this way

http://www.redrc.net/2009/11/pro-tip...%80%93-part-2/

or do you do it like the capricorn manual? put the clutchbell on (with bearings and then shim it out

i like the way michael salven uses to measure the gap between the shoe.. it seems more accurate because there are no bearings there and the bell is absolutly touching the shoe.
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Old 07-28-2010, 07:09 AM   #27
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I use the way described in the capricorn manual.
If you ask me this is a better method as the one shown by Salven.
A lot of the pro-drivers use the Capricorn method.

If you set your gap and endplay with 0.6mm of pre-tension the bell will hit the shoe with the bearings in place.
Just make sure you assemble everything correctly and you will end up with a very good clutch.
Roadrash730 also figured it out and now has a great clutch.
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Old 07-28-2010, 03:42 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
I use the way described in the capricorn manual.
If you ask me this is a better method as the one shown by Salven.
A lot of the pro-drivers use the Capricorn method.

If you set your gap and endplay with 0.6mm of pre-tension the bell will hit the shoe with the bearings in place.
Just make sure you assemble everything correctly and you will end up with a very good clutch.
Roadrash730 also figured it out and now has a great clutch.
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Old 07-29-2010, 06:51 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
I use the way described in the capricorn manual.
If you ask me this is a better method as the one shown by Salven.
A lot of the pro-drivers use the Capricorn method.

If you set your gap and endplay with 0.6mm of pre-tension the bell will hit the shoe with the bearings in place.
Just make sure you assemble everything correctly and you will end up with a very good clutch.
Roadrash730 also figured it out and now has a great clutch.
just when i use the capricorn method.. the clutchbell is not touching the shoe 100%.. it is just slipping/gliding it.

while the method used by salven touched the shoe 100%.
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Old 07-29-2010, 05:07 PM   #30
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just when i use the capricorn method.. the clutchbell is not touching the shoe 100%.. it is just slipping/gliding it.

while the method used by salven touched the shoe 100%.
can u post some pics of your clutch build in progress that would help to explain some of your issues
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