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Old 02-05-2007, 08:28 PM   #2491
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Originally Posted by uniquexme
wondering if anyone has tried this engine with Kyosho T. Shimo pipe?? is it good???
are you talking about the vzw218 tuned silenced T.Shimo 2 piece pipe
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Old 02-05-2007, 08:32 PM   #2492
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but there is no thing that u can hook it. so i was wondering if mine has broken
Yeah. If there is no hook on the clip it has broke. The clips should be G shaped. You should be able to get them out using a thin scalpel type knive.
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Old 02-05-2007, 10:44 PM   #2493
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dismental my engine yesterday, but found only now i realise that the piston pin (the 2 clip that secure the piston) is very different from OS, as in OS, there is a tiny bent bit where u can pull the clip out. At 1st i thought it was broken, thereby causing my engine to have few scratches on the piston wall. but then i check again, it seems that both sides are the same. so my question is how are we suppose to remove the clips to replace the conrod?
Some Palmaris p/s sets use a C clip instead of a Gclip like most other brands. There is a little square notch in the piston just below the wrist pin hole. Use an exacto knife or straight pick into that notch to gently pry up on the C clip and get it out of the groove. Keep your finger over the wrist pin hole to help keep it from springing away just like G clips can. If you don't catch the C clip when doing this it's slid out of place around the groove, use a exacto knife tip to spin it in the slot until it's over the notch. He used a C clip to try to reduce the chance of breakage and falling out like G clips can do. I wouldn't worry too much if there are scratches in the piston (unless it's actually affecting compression), it should still run fine. I've run some with scratches I thought for were would have an effect but did not.
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Old 02-06-2007, 01:37 AM   #2494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surge
Some Palmaris p/s sets use a C clip instead of a Gclip like most other brands. There is a little square notch in the piston just below the wrist pin hole. Use an exacto knife or straight pick into that notch to gently pry up on the C clip and get it out of the groove. Keep your finger over the wrist pin hole to help keep it from springing away just like G clips can. If you don't catch the C clip when doing this it's slid out of place around the groove, use a exacto knife tip to spin it in the slot until it's over the notch. He used a C clip to try to reduce the chance of breakage and falling out like G clips can do. I wouldn't worry too much if there are scratches in the piston (unless it's actually affecting compression), it should still run fine. I've run some with scratches I thought for were would have an effect but did not.
yo surge, so i assume my palmaris p/s set uses C Clip, coz i dun think its snapped Gclip. well, my frenz last week, his Gclip tip broke off, thereby causing his RB Rody engine seriously damaged, turbo head extremely rought, piston, as u can imagine, serious vertical lines. well, then i inspect his piston and found that on 1 side, the piston clip is different, coz it dun have the Gclip end. We opened up the engine is pushing the flywheel shows no sign of compression, and bearing is roaring loud. another reason that we can think of is his torn air filter, but still i concluded to him that its the piston clip broke off, causing all those horrible scratches.
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Old 02-06-2007, 03:07 AM   #2495
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I have played with the crank on a Bimetal PR12 ,added some silicone to thehcarnk as per the norm on modded engines and also dremeled it a bit to roughen it up a bit and made the leading edge of the intake on the crank a bit sharper.
I was thinking of raising the exhaust port and got a pm suggesting this ,what I wanted to find out is how much and wouldnt I acchieve the same with raising the sleeve a bit ???

I really like the PR12 but would like a bit more grunt.
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Old 02-06-2007, 04:32 PM   #2496
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Unique - Sounds like some major gunk got in the engine. Either through the air filter or maybe from detonation. If aluminum fragments start getting around in there they can detonate pitting piston and head button, scratching sleeve, getting in the bearing. If the piston is not cracked or broken then it's probably not alum fragments. Gunk probably came from outside to have enough material to mess up everything plus the bearing.
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Old 02-06-2007, 04:38 PM   #2497
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Razzor, if you raise the sleeve it will change the timing of all ports in addition to the exhaust. Unfortunately I don't know enough to say exactly how that affects the combustion process but it will, going too far on the timing will hurt more than help. Depending on which version of sleeve you have it's hard to say if this is a good idea. I'd recommend instead if you want to experiment, try widening the top corners of the exhaust port in the sleeve (and crankcase to match). There's a nice pic of this on Novarossi's site and the Plus 12-3ct I think. I think Sirio is doing the same thing to help the scavenging process. Do it at your own risk though cause I don't know how far you can go and what the proper angle of the cut is going into the cylinder. If it's not too far, it should help you out.
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Old 02-06-2007, 05:55 PM   #2498
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Well, piston has a tiny chipped off at the top side wall, thereby loosing its compression i believe, and what junk went in, we believe is the piston G-clip, where the tiny part for us to dig it out as 1 side is gone. The budget way is to sand off the turbo head, and polish the piston top part (just to save some money), i believe it should be ok for normal buddy racing sessions, as RB Rody p/s is not cheap. I also promoted BRB to him, as i love Palmaris engine.

BUT last weekend race, its seems that me and my frenz BRB is starting to loose power, we are unable to chase the Kawahara OS.

Surge, recently my glow plug blow off very frequently, almost like 1-2pc per month (only weekend racing). i am running at about 110-120oC at malaysian hot weather. And the bad about BRB/ Palmaris is that once u shut off ur engine after a tank (with the engine still hot), its super difficult to start it up again. we need to force it really hard by covering the exhaust pipe hole, and letting it go, before its willing to start, but the process is very bad to the engine i believe. As my crankcase is still on the way of delivery to me, i m using RB crankcase with RB Carb, Nova LL5 Crankshaft, palmaris turbo head with OS plug. i really wonder where Edward is as i wanted a original palmaris engine, rather than mix and match.
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Old 02-06-2007, 09:36 PM   #2499
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Unique, I've had problems before with restarting engines with aluminum carbs. The thing that helped me is the spray some nitro cleaner spray on carb body to cool it off. I think it gets hot enough to go into vapor lock and hard to get the right mixture for starting. Spraying the nitro cleaner takes less time than trying to restart hot and it seemed to work everytime I tried it during a race. Give it a shot. You can try a Sirio evo3 carb as well since it's plastic shouldn't have the restart problem.
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Old 02-06-2007, 11:39 PM   #2500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surge
Unique, I've had problems before with restarting engines with aluminum carbs. The thing that helped me is the spray some nitro cleaner spray on carb body to cool it off. I think it gets hot enough to go into vapor lock and hard to get the right mixture for starting. Spraying the nitro cleaner takes less time than trying to restart hot and it seemed to work everytime I tried it during a race. Give it a shot. You can try a Sirio evo3 carb as well since it's plastic shouldn't have the restart problem.
nitro cleaner spray? whats that? hmm, sounds interesting, but we still have to remove the air filter rite? oh, sirio evo 3 carb, i will go buy 1 to try it out.
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Old 02-07-2007, 10:39 PM   #2501
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You can use water, just use a stream instead of spray. Don't remove the filter, just spray it on the carb body like where the brand badge is. You can do it through the rear window of the body. Just a little should cool it off enough.
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Old 02-08-2007, 01:59 AM   #2502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surge
Razzor, if you raise the sleeve it will change the timing of all ports in addition to the exhaust. Unfortunately I don't know enough to say exactly how that affects the combustion process but it will, going too far on the timing will hurt more than help. Depending on which version of sleeve you have it's hard to say if this is a good idea. I'd recommend instead if you want to experiment, try widening the top corners of the exhaust port in the sleeve (and crankcase to match). There's a nice pic of this on Novarossi's site and the Plus 12-3ct I think. I think Sirio is doing the same thing to help the scavenging process. Do it at your own risk though cause I don't know how far you can go and what the proper angle of the cut is going into the cylinder. If it's not too far, it should help you out.

Havent raised port much just cleaned up and matched to exhaust port on casing.
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Old 02-20-2007, 03:48 AM   #2503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uniquexme
wondering if anyone has tried this engine with Kyosho T. Shimo pipe?? is it good???
I had a chance to try this #VZW217 Shimo pipe. Is good for Techincal track. Not for large track. Good on fuel, 30 sec more than JP or Nova I used.
But still the best combo I liked ( the most powerful) is the HEC.
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Old 02-20-2007, 04:12 AM   #2504
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The PR12 ran like a clock on the weekend.
Also the best thing I did was use the Skyline VR12+ pipe set.
I got 5:30 sec out of a tank and that was with the bottom a bit rich.
Engine pulled well of the line and had a very responsive midrange.
Was a bit shy on the top end but made up for it with wicked accelleration out of the corners.In fact the PR12 and clutch setup had me reeling in guys out of the corners that I could gain 5/6 meters on them.

Ran a Nosram 6 plug with no hassles.Engine was shimmed for .4mm total head clearance on 16% nitro.
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Old 02-20-2007, 04:14 AM   #2505
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I am going to try the head button mod next and see what happens.
The port matching was definately worth the effort.
Crank was std with it silicone filled.
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