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Old 04-29-2005, 09:43 AM   #1681
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Ummmm... You need to mount the crankshaft to a protractor for that.
Erm, how? But this would mean I can't alter the timing.

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Mine is also like that in the pic after a hard run. Is the plug condition ok? Coil pressed in or out?
Just like when it came out of the packet - you can just say see a little bit of the coil sticking out

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p/s: Geez... Did your dirt filter expired?
I got nervous and forgot to enable it
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Old 04-29-2005, 09:44 AM   #1682
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Originally posted by Top Gun 777
Sound to me that it is not closing on time.
How do you solve this Ed if it's true that it's not closing on time? Colder or hotter plug?
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Old 04-29-2005, 09:49 AM   #1683
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Originally posted by markp27
You can probably see, too, from the picture that the HSN is turned in pretty far.

Cheers, Mark.
Hi Mark.
Actualy the darker is combustion chamber is better ( I don't mean varnish), it means that combustion process was very effective.
To mesure timing on indction, you need to get 360 Deg protractor.
Step 1 : install protractor on cranckshaft and install engine on some sort of stand ( remove carb to see window on cranck)
Step 2 : Install needle ( I use sharpened on the end 2 mm steel wire) on stand and make sure that when cranck on BDC that needl is on "0" degree position.
Step 3: Start turning cranck counter clockwise till induction window just open-this is your opening timing ( you will see number on protractor where needl is pointing).
Step 4: Keep turning shaft till windows is close and see the number on protractor pointing by needle-it will be your closing timing.
If you use 360 deree protractor for closing you will need to substract from closing number 180 and it will be you closing n number-it will be somewhere between 55-70 degree ( not sure what will you have), if you use 180 degree prottractor-the closing number will be real number and doesn't need any other action.
To make mesurment more precise, I use small strip of thin paper (.05-0.08 mm) and stick it in indcution window-on opening I open further, stick strip and close till cranck stop moveing because paper will stack between cranck's window and case window, for closing the same, just stick paper strip and keep turning till shaft stop because paper will stack between cranck and case.
I think I expalne as best as I could. I am sure I did made mistake, and I applogise for it ( You know-Russian ). I hope it will help everybody to mesure induction timing.

I think you need to try tune your engine after you run at list half a tank ( for first time tuning).
Edward
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Old 04-29-2005, 09:52 AM   #1684
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
How do you solve this Ed if it's true that it's not closing on time? Colder or hotter plug?
I would sugest to stay with #7 for most of the cases ( 6 for EFRA in Europe). Just worm up engine really good before you do your initial race tunning. His combustion chamber looks pretty good for me, Check the pipe, might be too short for that particular load.
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Old 04-29-2005, 10:00 AM   #1685
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Ed, even after running several laps, I couldn't get any heat into the engine. PalmarisEurope has suggested that I use a smaller head - the JP is the 11 Fin version - this would get the temperature up.

When I had the engine running below the point where is went lean, the motor was at least as fast a my friends modified Mega, so the speed is already there - it is just the temperature which is totally out.
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Old 04-29-2005, 10:02 AM   #1686
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Quote:
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
I would sugest to stay with #7 for most of the cases ( 6 for EFRA in Europe). Just worm up engine really good before you do your initial race tunning. His combustion chamber looks pretty good for me, Check the pipe, might be too short for that particular load.
Normally I would switch to a #7 when the temp goes above 25C (approx 80F) - do you think I should change to a #7 even at cooler temps? I have one still from the Winternats, I could try it out if you think it would help in this case?
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Old 04-29-2005, 10:03 AM   #1687
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Originally posted by markp27
Ed, even after running several laps, I couldn't get any heat into the engine. PalmarisEurope has suggested that I use a smaller head - the JP is the 11 Fin version - this would get the temperature up.

When I had the engine running below the point where is went lean, the motor was at least as fast a my friends modified Mega, so the speed is already there - it is just the temperature which is totally out.
I see. use smaller cooling head, JPs are realy big. Anyway, try to get timings numbers for me, I am sure you have something to alter.
Edward
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Old 04-29-2005, 10:05 AM   #1688
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Normally I would switch to a #7 when the temp goes above 25C (approx 80F) - do you think I should change to a #7 even at cooler temps? I have one still from the Winternats, I could try it out if you think it would help in this case?
I stay with O'Donnell 99T all the time, unless I am out of them. Regardless ambient.
Did you try 0.2 mm shimming?
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Old 04-29-2005, 10:14 AM   #1689
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Quote:
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
I stay with O'Donnell 99T all the time, unless I am out of them. Regardless ambient.
Did you try 0.2 mm shimming?
Can't get O'Ds here - I take it a Novarossi 7TF would be the same? I'll try it out.

I'm on a head clearence of 0.3mm, that means 1 x 0.1mm shim. I measure the head clearence with solder. I also tried 0.4mm head clearence, but the result was the same.

I must say, Ed, I've never seen an engine with this much low end power - I'm going to have to work on my clutch a bit to better transfer the power.
I crashed into the fence at the edge of the circuit once, as the car simply accelerated so quickly out of a corner, I just wan't ready for it
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Old 04-29-2005, 10:15 AM   #1690
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Quote:
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
I see. use smaller cooling head, JPs are realy big. Anyway, try to get timings numbers for me, I am sure you have something to alter.
Edward
I will try, but I don't have the necessary bits to make the measurement at the moment. I'll try and find the right bits.
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Old 04-29-2005, 10:17 AM   #1691
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Can't get O'Ds here - I take it a Novarossi 7TF would be the same? I'll try it out.

I'm on a head clearence of 0.3mm, that means 1 x 0.1mm shim. I measure the head clearence with solder. I also tried 0.4mm head clearence, but the result was the same.

I must say, Ed, I've never seen an engine with this much low end power - I'm going to have to work on my clutch a bit to better transfer the power.
I crashed into the fence at the edge of the circuit once, as the car simply accelerated so quickly out of a corner, I just wan't ready for it
Hi Mark. Try 0.3 mm shimming ( not head clearance-shimming).
Use 7 TF, they are working really good too. I just use O'D because I tested for durability and found they are most trustable.
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Old 04-29-2005, 10:17 AM   #1692
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Quote:
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
I think I expalne as best as I could. I am sure I did made mistake, and I applogise for it ( You know-Russian ). I hope it will help everybody to mesure induction timing.
I understand what you have explained - don't worry about the Russian - hey I'm an english guy who has lived in Germany too long and can't speak his own language well enough any more
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Old 04-29-2005, 10:19 AM   #1693
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Quote:
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
Hi Mark. Try 0.3 mm shimming ( not head clearance-shimming).
Use 7 TF, they are working really good too. I just use O'D because I tested for durability and found they are most trustable.
Ok, so with the Novarossi built in 0.2mm head clearence, that means the head clearence would be 0.5mm in total - is this correct?

I'll switch to 7TF - anyone need some 6TFs?
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Old 04-29-2005, 10:47 AM   #1694
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Ok, so with the Novarossi built in 0.2mm head clearence, that means the head clearence would be 0.5mm in total - is this correct?

I'll switch to 7TF - anyone need some 6TFs?
Lol i just changed to 7s.

I just posted on 3hobby you should try 0.5mm head clearance.

Just a thought. What crankshaft are you using? I used normal NSR one and was going to try the JP one. This will increase the pressure in the head so would advance the timing

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Old 04-29-2005, 11:01 AM   #1695
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Originally posted by ziggy12345
Lol i just changed to 7s.

I just posted on 3hobby you should try 0.5mm head clearance.

Just a thought. What crankshaft are you using? I used normal NSR one and was going to try the JP one. This will increase the pressure in the head so would advance the timing

Cheers
I'm using the JP-FX putty crank - black coated.
Do you think the JP Crank isn't so good with the Palmaris?
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