Re: hone
 

I think this is what it is. I know the minimum size is 13 mm and open till I belive 50 mm, seems like it is. But it is perfectly fit in our sleeves. There is two kind, one is Aluminium oxise and other is Silicon Carbide. I am using aluminium oxide-it is softer and doesn't hirt chrome. Silicon cirbide will scratch chrome. It costs like $ 15.
Just insert it in sleeve and turn around 3-4 times-it is ready. :nod:

Hi Richard. You are very welcome. Keep it run, she is not ready yet, needs some more run time.;) :nod:

Why wasn't I invited?:mad:

I want to thanks everybody who trust in my ideas and tryed my work, who has joint togther in our team.
About Palmaris Racing Cup, it is good idea, why not? Let's think about it. On good track with real good prizes it will boost hooby.

You are alwys welcome !!!!!!!!!!;) :nod: :D

hey,, don't leave me behind.

:batman:

Tell me the Cup date and I am packing my bags to see you guys.


:nod:

bull sh!t, you won't dare hehehehe

we shall see who will chicken out.......:D

Is the article in the recent radio control magazine about porting engine sleaves, a good article to follow?

- Dust

Thanks......Exactly what I was looking for

By the way TG77...... I'm using some timing numbers you posted as a base for my mods on my MR12 3 port and I can really tell the difference. So far I can keep up with a few slightly modified NS 3 ports and pixi outlaws but give me time and I'll smoke em.......muahahaha:sneaky: :sneaky: :sneaky:

I haven't see that article. Can you posted it or show to me somehow,I can tell you my opinion.:nod:

Realy nice to hear that. regardless who did the work, the right setting is working! Let's keep it up! Give me your numbers and we might go further. I will be happy to help you.:nod: If also you will use my P/S/conrod set you will see even a lot of more difference.:nod:
Have fun!!!!!!!!!!!

Glow plug types
 

ROAR finaly allow us to use turbo plugs on ROAR, but what about "nelson" type? Can we use them on sunctioned events? Anybody has idea if they will be allow to use on winternats?
Thanks!!!!

Sure I can use all the help I can get.......I'm a newbie to RC

Exhaust 172
Transfer 127...I think
Induction 215
carb opening bored close to stock NS12 carb with out restrictor
increased crank bore....not sure how much I was experimenting
stock venturi 5.5mm (sp?)
and a few minor things not worth mentioning

All the little minor things should be told. They may seen small and worthless but they all make a difference.

Edward
 

What are your views on Rifling the carb. opening, do you think it would excellerate the air enough to make a difference?

When induction open after BDC? It is realy important. Transfer and exhaust pretty good, may be transfer make 130, but 3 degree will not make a lot of difference.

Re: Edward
 

Is riflinfg means not smoothed? If it is, NO, it will actualy makes turbulence flow which we defenetly don't want to have in the induction track. Let's vacuum makes its work right. I preferd have pretty smooth track ( and short as much as possible).

If you be able to mesure timing that accurate, it is very promissing.:nod: ;) :D
Just one more advice, it is very important to make all cut lines very straight ( opening and closing lines). In my opinion, ports has to open/close instantly, including exhaust-it makes a lot of difference.:nod:

Induction open 30 ABDC
Induction close 65 ATDC


Hmmm.......the crank opens straight but closes in a U shape. The exhaust also closes in a U. I'll straighten them out this weekend.

Man thanks for all your help. When I first asked about modding everyone acted like it was some sort of secret society...they always said, "leave it to the pros"......I said the pros started out at the bottom just like everyone else if they can figure out how these little beast work so can I. So I rolled up my sleeves and went to work. And after tons of searches on message boards, web sites, and the ocassional ooooops....this baby will really move.:nod:

Hey Chewdogg - This is absolutely true. Most of the Pro Tuners do tell the newbie to leave it to them. They prefer to keep the engine modifying a secret code which only a select few gain entry too (those that fully understand before hand an engine inside-out).

Unfortunately, this has little to do with them not wanting to help more to do with money. These guys make money (maybe not a big lot, but they make money) and they dont want a newbie coming along and taking part of the wad.

I have only seen a couple of tuners who will willing give out small snippets of info (general gas flowing, etc that a baby could do blindfolded) but then TopGun came along and things really changed. The dark world of engines is being opened and soon it will be open completely. Together we have built Team Palmaris Racing and you only need to see by the signatures that a lot of guys believe in what TopGun is doing. These are only some of the team members. There are still quite a few who havent got the name in their signature.

But you can be sure that you will never be told to leave to the Pros again:)

mods
 

I got my new sleeve in tonight, and I got the crank moded like I was told. It took this one handed racer 1 1/2 hours to complete I did the carb last week. I cant wait to try it out but it is snowing now where I live.. :cry: :cry: :cry:

Re: mods
 

Hey, send them to me and I can test them for yr.:lol: :lol:
also i can tell you now how good they are.

<<<<<<<<<<<<<FAST >>>>>>>>>>>>>>

mods
 

anybody know where i can purchase a 360 degree protractor to use modding timing
thks :D

I got mine from Office Depot for 6 bucks.

Hey guys I have seen pics of modded sleeves with bigger tapers on the bottom. What are the benefits of doing this?:confused:

Re: mods
 

I got mine from Home depot, it costs about $5 including tax.
I love that one, it has two x180 degree graduation, no need to calculate ( getting lasy :D ). It is made out of lexan or similar clear plastic-very right tool for us.:nod:

It is removing extra friction from the bottom. It is realy doesn't need to have any sealing on the bottom, so we made realy big tapper there. But it has limit, if it is too big, the piston will go out of straight line and will hit exhaust window's top line. So everything is reasonble limit. Can tell you, that one is one of the realy big secret of design, too many things are involve in this issue and a lot tries were done to find right tapering.:nod:

Engine modding secrets.
 

To add some info on engine modding secrets, can tell you, I don't have a lot of secrets from anybody, more then that on the beginnignof my present here in forum I offer my help for everyone here. More then that I was already on the process to build my motor and in the mean time offer to very respectible moddifier to supply him with my parts at very discounted price for his needs ( but i even didn't get respond). I know all my parts can be mesured and try to copy, materials can be checked for chemical constraction etc, but still don't see any secrets in it and ready to share with everyone. I do have some technological secrets, but it has nothing to do with modding. I can't release technology of piston material manufacturing, but I can supply anybody who needs with ready pistons ( by specs) or blank pistons, ready to be crinding to fit.
But unfortunately nobody needs my help in manufacturing, that is realy fine with me. Beside these couple secrets I can release any possible info on my work with engines and I am doing it so far and happy if somebody will use my expirience and knowolodge.:nod:

It must close straight, try to fix it.
The numbers are realy good, try to save them.:nod:
On exhaust, all Novas based engines ( not only them) have arc on the top line. It is some their theory, but I use staright line theory.:nod: Don't overcut that line, too much of exhaust will cut your torq on bottom end ( dwell time will be too short).
have fun and if you have more questions, please ask :nod:

NEEDLE
 

Efdward:
I did all the mods you suggested, I think I may have goten the taper wrong on the low speed needle. The engine loads up even with the low speed needle turned all the way in ,the mid range is set to the middle of the carb opening. When I replaced the needle with a stock one everything was perfect, this engine has throttle responce out the WAZOO!I guess I will have to try to make another needle to see if I can get it right.

Re: NEEDLE
 

Hey Paul. Seems for me like needle isn't sharp enough-too lean on the bottom. Try to sharp it more, but don't touch the lenght please.;) :nod:

Anybody got any pics of a modded crank? I know some people \Dremmel the end scoop but how?

Cheers

Hey guys what are some of the ROAR legal mods you can do to an engine?

pictures
 

My website has pictures of some modified engines.

http://murnanmodified.5u.com/

Re: pictures
 

Hi Uriah....

Will see you on Ft. Myers... want to talk with you and discuss some ideas regarding engines. Plan to go with Sirios or with the almighty RR12L3 you did lately?

Re: Re: pictures
 

What's up, I will be in Ft. Myers, and look forward to meeting you. I think I will run the RR, but I'm still undecided because my Sirio was extremely fast down there for the warmup race two weekends ago, but there is the reliability issue with their rods. I think the RR may be perfect on that track.

Re: Re: Re: pictures
 

Hi Grinder
Long time no talk...Yes I'm having same problem with my Sirio Evo2 concerning premature wear on conrod......engine is extremely fast but.......conrods???? I just hope Sirio come up with a solution for this.
Good Luck at Winternats.
AFM

Re: Re: Re: Re: pictures
 

The problem is not the quality of the rod itself, but a brand new Sirio rod has too much play in it. :confused: